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Alexander Wetmore
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
AND
ACROSS PANAMA
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By Francis C. :^{icholas, M. Sc, Ph.D.
Iloii'y F.A.M.N.H , Ilon'y Asc. Inst. . ■naica,
HoiVy C.M.N.Y.A.Sc.
Around the Caribbean
and ..^..-%
Across Panama/
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lll\istra.ted
With Maps and Half-Tones |
From Rare Photographs
Boston (El New York
H. M. Caldwell Company
Publishers
ii
iiri -fiiniiTi-infi-B
Copyright^ IQOJ,
By H. M. Caldwell Company
Colonial Pregg
Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co.
Boston, Mass., U. S. A.
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
Acknowledgments of gratitude are due to
Dr. Arturo de Brigard, Consul General of
Colombia, for valuable plates and illustrations ;
and to W. R. Gillespie, Esq., of the American-
Honduras Company, for photographs of the
Rio Patuca and it's savannahs ; and to Dr.
Juan J. UUoa, Consul General of Costa Rica,
for interesting photographs.
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PREFACE
Of all the regions adjacent to the United
States none are so attractive or present such
varied conditions of development, scenic beauty,
and commercial opportunity as the countries
about the Caribbean Sea. From the islands of
the West Indies, with their teeming population,
some of them the most densely peopled spots in
the world, to the low lands of Central America,
where, in the solitude of the wilderness, a human
voice is all but unknown, we find a varied coun-
try. It is a vast region surrounding the pleas-
ant waters of the Caribbean Sea, inhabited by
divers people, and presenting for our considera-
tion snow-capped mountains, temperate uplands,
broad savannahs and grassy plains, open
valleys, dense jungles, and mighty rivers pour-
ing their torrents of muddy water into the sea.
One meets Spaniards, Englishmen, Negroes, and
Indians of many different tribes. Of products
everything known to the American tropics is
PREFACE
to be had. Commerce is flourishing as yet only
in its infancy, but with the opening of work on
the Isthmian Canal a great impetus will be given
to all this region; and many will turn to the
South, some looking for business in the cities,
others going to the wilderness on projects of de-
velopment, or seeking to gather products.
For my part, I have visited almost every
point of the Caribbean regions, and expect to
go there again many times. What has hap-
pened to me, is similar to what others may
expect ; descriptions of a country are all very
well, but incidents and adventures of the road
give a much clearer idea of the conditions and
of the circumstances which one must expect to
encounter.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I.
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
X.
XI.
XII.
XIII.
XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
PAGE
Going South 1
Camping on the Coast of Spanish Hon-
duras 4
Indians and Mosquitoes ... 17
Wild Animals and a Panther at Night 30
Alone in an Indian Village . . 37
A Startling Proposition and a Heavy
Flood . . . . . .45
A Row IN Camp 51
Alone with the Indians Again . . 66
Over the Mountains with Indian
Murderers 65
Treachery and Poison .... 79
Perplexities and Spanish - American
Hospitality 96
Examining a Mine under Difficulties 107
Over the Mountains on a Race against
Time . 120
A Rough Journey to the Coast . . 130
Honduras to Costa Rica via New
Orleans 138
The Death Dance of the Talamanca
Indians ...... 144
Up the Atrato River in Colombia . 175
The Wilderness op the Choco Country 185
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
XIX. A Canoe Route from the Caribbean
TO THE Pacific .... 197
XX. Across Panama 215
XXI. The Indians and Resources of Panama 226
XXII. Panama and Nicaragua Routes for the
Isthmian Canal .... 235
XXIII. Hunting for Gold in Antioquia . . 242
XXIV. A Canoe Voyage in the Open Sea . 251
XXV. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
Mountains 258
■ XXVI. Among the Goajira Indians . . . 294
XXVII. Ramon, a Story of the Goajiras . 307
XXVIII. Across Country to Bogota . . . 336
XXIX. Through the West Indies . . . 351
XXX. A Faithful Guide 371
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Pine lands and savannahs near the Eio Patuca, on the
way to the Indian village {See page 38) Frontispiece
Map of the Caribbean regions v
Map of the Caribbean regions and localities where
adventures occurred vii
The Eio Patuca .26
A river of the tropical low lands .... 52
Mosquito bars prepared for the night near a tropical
river 70
Jungles in the low lands of Central America . . 134
Entrance to the king's house. " A shed protected the
entrance from the rains, and formed an open
veranda where horses were tied, and the Indians
gathered at times " 146
Josecito. Heir to the kingship among the Talamanca
Indians 150
Josecito 15g
The private house of Antonio, King of the Talamancas 160
Talamanca Indians. Men who are almost wild crea-
tures of the woods. The Indian on^he left is the
man who prepared the models of the dead as if for
bnrial 166
Model of a dead Talamancan Indian prepared for lay-
ing out in the woods. A tambour back of the
model, and above it articles of adornment used at
the dance for the dead . . . . . . 172
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Cartagena, Colombia. View outside the city wall . 178
Natives catching fish. Men who tell of the quicharo
and other strange objects believed to inhabit their
rivers 190
Map illustrating the canoe route from the Caribbean
to the Pacific 198
Cartagena, Colombia. View across the harbour, where
the principal trading centre will be located when
the canoe route from the Caribbean to the Pacific
is developed 212
Low tide in the Pacific off Panama .... 216
A Spanish-American country town. Through the
American tropics there is great similarity among
the towns and villages, and all look very much
alike 220
Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal . . . 224
Maps of Nicaragua and Panama Canal routes drawn
on exactly the same scale 236
Crater of Poas, one of the volcanoes of Costa Rica,
among the mountains south of the Nicaragua
Canal route 238
Crater of Irazu. A silent volcano of Costa Rica over-
looking the Nicaragua Canal route . . . 240
City of Barranquilla, Colombia. One of the most
rapidly developing places in South America . 242
Market-place in Madellen, Colombia .... 246
Street in Dibulla, a little town at the back of the Sierra
Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in Colombia . 258
Portrait of an Aurohuaco Indian. The people who
deserted their city when our party proposed to
visit them 278
An Aurohuaco Indian, one of the men who might have
rolled great rocks down on us from the mountains
had we remained in their country . . . 284
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
A Goajira Indian woman of high position among her
people 296
Collection of articles used by the Goajira Indians
exhibited at the American Museum of Natural
History, New York 306
Goajira Indians. A marriageable girl offered by her
uncles 310
Belts used by the Goajira Indians. Their principal
clothing during war and hunting expeditions . 314
Goajira Indians prepared for hunting or war . . 318
Tumas. Beautiful red beads found in ancient graves
among the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta moun-
tains, used by the Goajira Indians and considered
priceless. The bullet-shaped specimens at base of
picture are similar to the bead given to Ramon . 332
The road over the Andes to Bogota, Colombia . . 342
Scene in a Spanish-American city of the uplands.
Bolivar Square, Bogota, Colombia . . . 346
Steamboat on the Magdalena River .... 350
A house in the interior of Jamaica. Occupied by one
of the independent land-owning negroes of that
island 358
The wild mountains of the interior of Jamaica, British
West Indies 364
In tropical America the poor labour under heavy
burdens 372
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
AND
ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER I.
GOING SOUTH
One cannot explore the Caribbean regions in
a month or even in a year, and it is some time
ago that I found myself with a considerable
undertaking in view, the exploration of all that
country for the South American Land & Ex-
ploration Co., Ltd.
Plans had been carefully considered, and I was
to go alone, use my own judgment as to finding
companions on the way, and explore the gold
regions, the timber lands, the rubber forests,
and other resources of the tropics. I crossed
1
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
and recrossed the Caribbean Sea many times,
but for convenience in relating all that hap-
pened I will crowd the incidents of a long period
into a tale as of one continuous journey.
Going south is very easy. Comfortable
steamers leave New York at regular intervals ;
the traveller at ease on his way watches the
waters of the ocean change day by day to the
deep blue of the tropical seas, feels the air grow
warmer as the breezes come up from the south;
a glimpse of green islands in the distance, be-
yond them the sweeping trade-winds and tur-
bulent blue waters of the Caribbean ; then a line
of mountains, gray in the distance, and in a
little time the steamer anchors near the shore.
A strange odour of swamps and forests fills
the air, a damp clinging heat settles oppres-
sively about one. Presently a crew of natives
comes aboard, some in rough cotton clothes,
one or two in gaudy, ill-fitting uniforms, and
some dressed in a mixture of both, looking
strangely incongruous and not very clean.
Now one is to leave the steamer, and the ex-
pectant traveller goes ashore with the motley
crew of natives, amused perhaps at noticing
how they all shout out orders and direct one
2
AND ACROSS PANAMA
another. When the boat reaches land, one may
find a rough wharf, but at most places only a
lot of sheds marks the landing, where there is
a stretch of white sand burning hot under the
sun of the tropics, a few straggling bushes,
some cocoanut-trees, — ragged specimens toss-
ing to and fro in the wind, or drooping listlessly
if the day is still, — patches of coarse grass,
a vault of blue overhead where surely a group
of buzzards will be circling about, and every-
where intense burning heat. One hurries to the
nearest protecting shade, and is glad when per-
mission is received from the custom-house au-
thorities to leave the landing-place and seek
the interior of one of the low, cool houses in
the city beyond.
Under such conditions, I arrived at the little
seaport of Truxillo, in Spanish Honduras.
The details of the scene were not pleasing, but
the broad expanse of the blue ocean, the intense
sky, the great jungles stretching away below
the city, and the lofty mountains toward the
interior combined under the flood of glowing
sunlight to form a scene of dreamy loveliness.
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER n.
CAMPING ON THE COAST OF SPANISH HONDURAS
A FEW days in Truxillo, and I started down
the coast in a small sailboat with some adven-
turous Americans and a goodly company of
negro passengers.
These daring Americans were taking me to
see property and mines, in which they, with some
of my friends in New York, were interested.
Their time was passed in praising each other,
drinking, telling me of the great things they
had done, and in doing me for money. It was
all part of a prearranged plan, and had to be
tolerated.
As we stood along the coast I saw a succession
of low, sandy beaches, a tangled growth of
jungle beyond, and then a range of blue moun-
tains in the distance.
After three days under a tropical sun, the
4f
AND ACROSS PANAMA
captain informed us that we had arrived off our
destination, the inlet of Brewer's Lagoon, and
that he would put about for the shore, remind-
ing us that he did not guarantee a safe entrance,
and in case of loss the damage was for our ac-
count.
Passengers were ordered below, but the cap-
tain allowed me to stay on deck, perhaps because
I had taken the tiller for part of the time on the
way down, and had gotten along fairly well
sailing the boat.
" What will happen to us," I asked, " if the
boat runs aground? "
" Do you see those big waves ? " the captain
replied, in the low, deep voice common to the
negroes, but with the most perfect enunciation,
and no sign of negro dialect. " There are the
shifting sand-banks; the channel is never the
same ; it is always changing ; if we ground, the
boat will be beaten to pieces; our people will
swim ashore, but the sharks will eat white men ;
you were not made for these countries. Don't
talk to me now."
Surely a pleasant prospect. I had sailed
many a small boat in rough water, and was not
at all afraid of a swim ; but the sharks, —
5
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
how awful it would be to feci their great jaws
close on a leg, and then be torn to pieces by a
company of them attracted by the blood!
" Are there really many sharks ? " I asked,
in a whisper.
" Yes ; don't talk," answered the captain.
A big negro called Tom,- a perfect specimen
of health and strength, said to me : " See that
swirl in the water over there, and see that thing
moving just ahead of the boat. They are gath-
ering all around us. Here dead animals float out
to sea ; that is why they come."
We were approaching the shore now. Great,
muddy waves rose up with a threatening comb,
rippled into a foaming line along the top, and
then settled down again. I could see no sign
of an inlet, but still the little boat kept on, the
captain now giving orders in his native tongue,
a remnant of African memories used all along
the coast. The men stood at their places, and
then, swinging the sail full to the wind, the cap-
tain stood directly for the shore. For a moment
we ran quietly before the wind, then a great sigh
seemed to rise up among the waves, and with a
trembling and dragging the boat went grinding
along the bottom. Behind us came a rolling
6
AND ACROSS PANAMA
wave, in which, as it rushed toward us, I pic-
tured thousands of evilly disposed sharks; in
another instant the boat went staggering on,
then it came down on its side, and seemed to be
endeavouring to bury itself in the sand; waves
were now breaking all about us, and we were
not more than fifty yards from the shore. Once
more the boat rose up and staggered forward,
came down with a bang, that sent us all on our
backs; the next instant a wave dashed over us,
and then, with a grinding and dragging, while
the men shouted out to each other, the boat
seemed to make a final effort and floated gently
into quiet water behind the bar. Here a cur-
rent was running out to sea like a mill-race,
and it was some time before she could be brought
around to the wind and started toward the inlet.
" We disappointed the sharks that time," the
captain said, while the men began making vows
that they would never come again with such a
heavy cargo.
Then all the passengers began talking at
once, but I felt little patience to hear them, and,
going to the bow of the boat, sat on the guard-
rail beside Tom, who gave a kind of sympa-
thetic rub up against me, a movement expres-
7
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
sive of satisfaction, such as a great dog gives
at times, and then said, " You needn't look so
white and frightened about it; we would have
taken care of you, anyway."
A landing was made on the inner side of the
sand point at Brewer's Lagoon. I scrambled
over the side of the boat, and immediately a
painful, smarting sting developed on my face
and hands, caused by the sand-flies, tiny ene-
mies, too numerous to combat; and soon they
converted our hopeful company into as quar-
relsome a set of individuals as ever made them-
selves disagreeable to one another in a tropical
country. The negro sailors did not mind the
sand-flies very much, and they soon had the
cargo on shore ; then the boat prepared to go
away. I wanted Tom to stay with me, but he
would not hear of it, and urged that I should
return with them, but that could not be. Tom
had been a faithful servant, and I felt I should
miss him sadly; for continued good nature,
strong, steady muscles, and a faithful spirit
are rarely found, especially in the tropics. As
the boat sailed away, I was lonely and dis-
couraged, and determined that when I returned
8
AND ACROSS PANAMA
to Truxillo I would engage Tom for a long
cruise; but I never saw him after.
A circumstance not a little to be regretted
in a traveller's life, is the parting from faithful
people. One meets with many who are compan-
ionable and worthy of esteem, — rough Indian
guides, courageous and true; vigorous negroes,
ready to dare anything in one's service; cour-
teous officials, kind friends, and charming host-
esses ; and at parting one resolves he will meet
them at some future time, but often they are
never seen again.
On the sand point at Brewer's Lagoon our
camp settled itself to await the pleasure of the
Mosquito Indians who were to take us on our
way. The days were not pleasant, but after I
found that a mixture of kerosene oil, carbolic
acid, and vaseline, if smeared thick enough on
the hands and face, would keep the sand-flies
from bothering, life became tolerable, and the
evenings were always charming, for then the
sand-flies went away, and the mosquitoes did not
come till late.
When one has nothing but corned meat in
tins, it is really noticeable with what eagerness
one starts on the chase, and, when evening
9
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
came, I was always ready to take my rifle and
follow any guide who might be willing to lead
the way. At our camp there was a negro called
Big George, who stood six feet four, and knew
all the country round about. Frequently, after
sunset, he and I would go among the sand-dunes
looking for deer. We never got anything.
Big George said I talked too much, but I am
not so sure about that.
One night we determined to follow the beach
looking for turtles. It was a beautiful experi-
ence; under the intense moonlight the sand
looked like a pathway of silver stretching out
in the distance, with the ocean and the jungle,
one on either hand, each shrouded with the mys-
tery of night; from the ocean the sound of the
waves breaking along the shore, and from the
jungle the cries of wild animals — weird voices
from creatures unseen. Strange surroundings,
intensified by the presence of fierce semi-naked
Indians, who, following one after the other,
went like shadows stealing silently along the
sand !
On and on we went, our hopes frequently
raised, to be followed only by disappointment.
Sometimes it was a log glistening in the moon-
10
AND ACROSS PANAMA
light; again a patch of shells would so much
resemble a turtle that out steps would quicken
impulsively. Finally, Big George said it was
of no use; the moon was too clear. But just
then something unusually bright in the distance
caught my attention, and hurrying on, we saw
that this time a really large turtle was just
before us, resting quietly on the sand. Now
all was excitement. Nearer and nearer we crept.
The turtle, all unsuspecting, remained quiet;
then suddenly its head was raised for an instant
only, and it started clumsily for the water.
Immediately the Indians were upon it, and for
a moment I could not tell which was Indian and
which was turtle. In the general confusion one
man was sent rolling over and over at a blow
from one of the flippers; in an instant he was
on it again, and then the struggle was over;
the turtle was turned on its back, hauled to a
safe place, and we returned triumphantly to
camp.
The next morning four Indians said they
would bring the turtle in with ropes if I would
loan them. I thought they must be very strong,
and rather doubted their- ability, but I gave
11
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
them such things as they wanted, and, taking
my rifle, followed, to see what they would do.
After a tramp of about three hours, we
reached the turtle, finding it unharmed and just
as it had been left the night before. The In-
dians began at once tying up the turtle for the
return to camp. I could not help admiring
their ingenuity. A rope was tied to each flip-
per, when the turtle was allowed to crawl back
to the water, where the Indians, holding the
ropes from the shore, could guide it as they
wished. We went toward camp with some en-
thusiasm at the thought of the supply of fresh
meat that was swimming along before us as we
walked rapidly over the hard sand.
Presently we came to the mouth of a river,
where we all crowded into a small canoe, one
man holding the turtle, and three attempting
to paddle. But the turtle was too strong for
us, and began at once dragging the canoe down
the river toward the breakers on the bar. Here
was danger; around us an ever-increasing com-
pany of sharks came, gathering closer; some
even brushed against the canoe, rocking it vio-
lently, while the efforts of the turtle threatened
to upset us every moment, and once in that water
12
AND ACROSS PANAMA
there would have been little chance for us. We
were now nearing the breakers, and the canoe
began to race ominously. I called to the men
to cut the ropes and let the turtle go. One
seized the hatchet, but at that instant the turtle
turned down the coast instead of crossing the
bar, and this gave the Indians a chance to reach
the other shore, and we soon had the turtle
hauled up close by camp. That night he was
made into soup, a whole turtle stewed in a great
iron pot, and it was good.
As the days went on, my companions con-
tinued to drink freely, and presently the camp
ran dry, that is, all the spirits had been con-
sumed. This wasn't my fault, and I was rather
well satisfied ; but my companions were most
unhappy, and the superintendent ordered that
I immediately provide the money for a fresh
supply. I had all the funds for the expedition,
which, in some respects, was fortunate, though
I hardly think that expedition would ever have
gone to water; yet, except the money had been
in my hands, it would never have gone very
far.
After thinking for a few moments, I declined
to provide more drink, and prepared to face a
13
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
storm, which came on in good earnest, — a wind
of words before which I finally weakened. I was
still very young then, and had frequently read
of the necessity of spirits on an exploring ex-
pedition, especially for snake-bites, exhaustion,
etc.
I decided to go myself to a trading-station
some miles away, and bring to camp six bottles
of cheap liquor, — a mixture of alcohol and
other things, called brandy, which ought to
have been more fatal than a snake-bite.
Taking two Indians, I started for a long
tramp to the trading-station. There was little
of incident, but much that was beautiful, the
influence of which was probably enhanced by
the sense of harmony and the satisfaction I
had left behind among the members of the expe-
dition. Through dense jungles, the trail led
on and on, the Indians never hesitating for an
instant, till finally we reached an open savannah,
where we stopped to rest, with a beautiful ex-
panse of green before us, containing some
square miles of grass, dotted with groups of
fine trees, through which the distant mountains
could be seen, a bold outline in beautiful pro-
spective.
14
AND ACROSS PANAMA
Starting on again, we presently came to the
traders' camp, where I bought six bottles of
brandy, and, after resting my men and giving
them a feed, started back for camp, each Indian
carrying three bottles of the brandy and look-
ing the picture of misery while they trudged
along in front of me, endeavouring to get away
by themselves. Finally they became worked up
into such a state of excitement that, for safety,
I promised to give them each a drink when we
got to camp, and after that I could not go fast
enough for them.
At sunset we reached camp, and all came
crowding around eager for brandy. One bottle
was given to the superintendent, who immedi-
ately partook liberally himself; and then he
began treating all hands, and soon came back
for a fresh supply. But I had placed the five
remaining bottles in a suitable box, nailed down
the lid, and put my seal over the cracks, as one
does when shipping bullion; then I announced
that that brandy was mine, and threatened all
the law and prosecution of the courts on any
one who dared to break my seal. Then there
was a racket, before which I winced and trem-
bled, but would not give in ; for, though I was
15
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
afraid all through, I was mad also, and that
helped me out.
It was amusing to see the superintendent look
at the impression of my crest on the box, and
then turn away doubtfully and consult with the
Spaniards ; but they seemed to consider that I
had the law on my side, and it is remarkable
what a little thing will hold men in check.
Finally the camp quieted down, and after a
cold supper I went to bed. Before I turned in,
the cook, a rough fellow named Brown, slapped
me on the back and said, " Wal, now, for a kid,
that war purty well done," and then he went
away laughing. I was very indignant that any
one should call me kid, and went to sleep plan-
ning how it should be stopped.
16
AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER III.
INDIANS AND MOSQUITOES
Now the days dragged and time was heavy
on our hands, and it appeared as though the
Indians never would be ready to take us on.
but one morning a whole fleet of canoes ap-
peared, brought by a goodly company of In-
dians who had come to take us to their village.
Under the direction of their chief, our goods
were shortly distributed among the canoes, and
in a long procession we started across the la-
goon, a sheet of water formed quite the same
as the shallow lagoons along our Atlantic coast,
but surrounded with vegetation of bewildering
density. The water was very shallow, and the
canoes made good progress. After some hours
we saw in the distance a collection of cocoanut-
trees floating as it were above the water. They
mark one of the principal towns of the Mos-
17
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
quito Indians, a place where dark stories linger,
tales of the Indians and their cruelty. Arriv-
ing at this place in the late afternoon, I saw
only a low, muddy shore, and groups of huts
clustered together among the trees.
As we came up to the landing, women and
children crowded about, talking eagerly, and
anxious to see everything we had. Climbing
over the side of a great canoe, I stood for the
first time on the native land of the Indians, and
it would have been hard to tell which were the
more interested, I or the Indians crowding about
me. The girls were graceful ; the younger ones
beautiful. The children were bright and pretty,
like little fairies, almost ; but the older women
were worn and bent by labour. The men showed
all too clearly the signs of unrestricted dissipa-
tion. They were of rather dark skin, and
among some there were marked traces of negro
blood. Their huts were oblong, rounded at the
ends ; they were made by driving palmetto-
trunks into the ground and covered with a
thatched roof of palm-leaves. The children
wore but little clothing; the women used a
short skirt and little shawl, and the men wore
pantaloons and a short coat, only partially cov-
18
AND ACROSS PANAMA
ering the abdomen. All were friendly, and in
a very short time willing hands took our sup-
plies from the canoes, and then made us welcome,
with presents of fruits and game. All our
things were stored in one of the larger huts, and
we were given a place near by, in which we were
to live, — a very comfortable hut, with mahog-
any boards for the floor.
Soon people grew tired of looking at us, and
went about their own affairs. The women busied
themselves preparing food, and presently seated
before the huts were groups of people, eating,
talking, and laughing, evidently secure in the
abundance of the present and the promises of
the future, with no care at all.
In a little time the family groups began to
disappear, and laughing and talking could be
heard from under heavy canopies; and from
the surrounding jungles a distant hum, rising
up and dying away, could be heard constantly
growing louder, and apparently drawing nearer.
Most of the people had disappeared by this
time, and the chief now shouted to us, " Get
under the mosquito canopies; don't you hear
them coming? "
We had been provided with canopies before
19
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
leaving the settlements, and, finding that the
Indians had been careful to hang them in our
hut, we hurried under cover. For a time I lay
awake, listening in wonder to the myriads of
mosquitoes that came swarming about. This
was the Mosquito Coast, and I began to under-
stand how, at night, the mosquitoes are a real
danger, and to sleep without a heavy canopy
would truly mean death.
A day or two later, in the early morning,
when the fog was thick among the marshes, and
the mist hung low over the water, I left the
little Indian village under the cocoanut-trees on
Brewer's Lagoon, and began a long journey,
canoeing up the Rio Patuca of Spanish Hon-
duras. I had been pleasantly entertained at
the village, but my late friends were apparently
so indifferent at my going that I began to lose
faith in the Indians, while stories that I had
heard of their cruelty and treachery were con-
stantly suggesting themselves to my thoughts.
My white companions were rough, boasting,
quarrelsome men, not pleasant travelling com-
panions; and from them I separated myself,
and found a comfortable place in one of the
smaller canoes alone with three Indians, about
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
whom I really knew nothing. Soon the Indian
village was lost, in the gray light of the morn-
ing, and then we were surrounded by fog and
desolation. Along the shores of the lagoon
were dead or dying trees, gaunt and naked;
about us were quantities of water-fowl, and in
the water were many watchful alligators. Our
progress was slow, for the shallow water was
choked with plants and decaying vegetation.
About noon we made a branch of the Patuca
River, where a volume of muddy water came
pouring out of a narrow channel, surrounded
by great stretches of marsh land covered with
tall reeds and extending for miles. Progress
was slow, and the clumsy boat designed by the
superintendent of the expedition could scarcely
be held against the current.
By nightfall we had made perhaps one or
two miles, and then, the mosquitoes appearing,
we were forced to prepare a hasty camp on a
mud-bank. Such a night ! Before my mosquito
bar was up, I had caught a net full of them,
and as the hours wore away held a boxing-
match with myself, and perhaps killed some
mosquitoes, but I am not sure; in that country
mosquitoes are different from the harmless little
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insects at home. They are Hke rubber; to kill
them one must use force enough to cause some
inconvenience, and that night I punished my-
self severely. Next morning came with fog and
light rain, just the weather for mosquitoes;
and the Indians predicted that we would have
a bad time. We didn't stop to eat much, and
were soon under way again, making better prog-
ress than on the day before. I travelled with
my three Indians, who were working vigorously
to keep up with the larger boat. They were
almost naked, and the quantities of mosquitoes
made their flesh quiver; yet they bent deter-
minedly to their work. Presently we passed
under a group of willow-trees, and I picked a
bunch of soft withes to keep the mosquitoes from
my hands and face. One of the withes was very
long, and I found that by using a little energy
I could send it gently over the backs and shoul-
ders of my suff^ering men, and at the same time
protect my own face and hands. Presently my
white companions noticed my efforts, and from
the larger boat set up a derisive shouting, say-
ing, with many unpleasant words, that it was
no use to do anything for an Indian, I would
learn quickly enough. The Indians said noth-
AND ACROSS PANAMA
ing; neither did they make any sign of thanks,
though at each derisive shout and taunting re-
mark I noticed an ugly light flash in their eyes,
but there was no other change of expression.
Then we fell behind the big boat, and I was
alone with them. Dinner-time came; the big
boat was far in advance of us, and my men had
nothing to eat. Their leader asked me, " You
eat now.? " and on being told that I would,
stopped the canoe at a convenient point and
spread out the bountiful lunch that had been
provided for me. Then they went back to the
canoe and sat in stolid dejection, waiting for
me to finish. I immediately called them, pro-
posing to divide what food I had equally. They
came with some hesitation ; each took the offered
food, but made no sign of thanks, not even an
expression of gratitude on their faces. My dog
received a share of the food, and it laid its head
affectionately on my knee and wagged its tail
in appreciation; but the Indians simply ate,
and made no sign. I was disgusted. Truly
there was reason in all the derision of my white
companions. We started on presently, but there
was a sort of misunderstanding among us. I
sat in the canoe, brushing the mosquitoes from
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my hands and face, and let the men shift for
themselves, thinking that there was no use do-
ing anything for an Indian; but common hu-
manity could not bear the sight of their quiver-
ing, naked flesh, and the next moment I was
brushing the mosquitoes from them, as before,
wondering at their strange, unfeeling natures.
Late in the afternoon we overtook the large
boat, and found that preparations were being
made to camp on a high, wooded bank, that
promised well for the night. I got out my
mosquito bar, meaning to arrange it early, be-
fore the mosquitoes came; but no sooner had
I started for the shore than the leader of my
men gave the youngest a savage cuff across the
ear and pointed to the bundle, which the young
man immediately ran to take from me. I was
well tired, and only too pleased to give it up,
and scarcely noticed that my men were busily
at work arranging it for me — and they did it
well, too. When supper was ready and we sat
around eating as best we could hardtack and
canned corned beef, with strong coffee, one of
my men came softly behind me and put a fine
piece of roasted turtle on my plate, and went
away, not even waiting for thanks. Of course,
24
AND ACROSS PANAMA
I shared it with my white companions, and we
all found it a welcome addition to our limited
supply. Then the mosquitoes drove us under
our nets, and we tried to sleep; but a fierce
storm, now rapidly approaching, made us anx-
ious, and we lay awake waiting. The perspira-
tion was trickling down my face; then for a
moment a breath of cool air came, blowing
through the net, followed by a crashing and
roaring as the storm closed in around us, —
wind, thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain.
No tent could turn such a volume of water,
and presently it was coming through in streams.
All the place was drenched, and pools of water
formed where my companions had made their
beds; but where I lay the ground had been
banked up, and no water collected, and for some
unaccountable reason no water came through
my part of the tent, though long, bitter curses,
coming from my companions, showed how they
were faring; yet I was cool and comfortable
and presently fell asleep.
Morning came bright and clear after the
storm, and, on scrambling out from under the
tent, I saw that my Indians had left their beds,
and in all that storm had collected quantities of
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big leaves and arranged them on the tent over
my bed, that I might sleep unharmed. Truly
their ways are not as our ways, and it is of
some use to show kindness to the Indians. I
understood them after that, and we were the
best of friends. Through all that journey I
had but to express a wish, and eager hands
were ready to serve me. Of course I shared my
provisions, and kept the mosquitoes off them;
but that was not much to do, and they gave
in return of fruits, game, and all that they
had; nor were they ever contented till I had
taken the best of everything that they secured;
yet never an expression of thanks in their silent
faces, only now and then a light in their eyes
that shone for an instant and then disappeared.
Through all that trip up the river the water
was at full flood, the rainy season on in force,
and all nature at its best. Each turn of the
river opened to new delights of tropical luxuri-
ance, a wall of green on either hand, a torrent
of muddy water crowding, chafing, and filling
the air with a subdued, but ominous, murmur-
ing; bands of dark, forbidding clouds, beating
showers, with alternate periods of bright sun-
shine, and everywhere the fragrance of count-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
less blossoms. Of all that was beautiful, the
most striking were the masses of yellow jessa-
mine flowers that in some places, where the vines
had mounted to the tops of great trees, were
seen in bold outline above the forest, a crown of
glory and fragrance. It was beautiful, but
no place for a white man. Below the dense
luxuriance of the jungle were swamps and poi-
soned air, and all that region was solitude, given
over to wild animals and primeval forests.
Camping in such places was not pleasant, and
each night we made the best convenience we
could on a mud-bank, and, though my Indians
did everything possible for me, I was beginning
to be quite miserable, when my head Indian
said, " Don't sick ; we sleep dry to-night, and
to-morrow reach houses ! "
Our camp that night promised to be the most
unpleasant of all, and, to my surprise, the In-
dians did not arrange my bed and mosquito bar
as usual. I soon found they had not forgotten,
for after supper they came to carry me on their
strong backs two miles through the swamp to a
village of their people. My white companions
objected, saying, " You are a pretty fellow,
going to leave the expedition, making up to the
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Indians, and deserting your friends. Suppose
the river rises, and everything exposed to it."
I stopped, not that I cared much about my
" friends," but I felt some responsibility for
the goods we carried. The Indians were dis-
appointed, and the youngest of my three men
was told to stay with me. Of this there was no
need, and I sent him, to be comfortable, with
the others. Then night settled down about
camp, and the sorrows of darkness began, —
rain above, mosquitoes around, and mud below
us.
At last morning came, and the Indians re-
turned from the village looking fresh and
rested; but we, who had stopped on the mud-
bank, were a sorry appearing lot. That day
it did not rain so much, and the Indians worked
with a will, so that by noontime we reached an
open savannah, where a collection of board
houses and a ruined sawmill were lonely evi-
dences of an enterprise of some kind that was
a failure. Here we were to stop for a few days,
until arrangements had been made with other
Indians to take us further on. Our supplies
were soon unloaded, and then the Indians turned
away and left us, my own men going without
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
a word or a look. I hurried after them to say
good-bye; and when I called they stopped,
took my proffered hand with a surprised ex-
pression, and then went on again. A moment
or two later the boats disappeared around a
bend in the river, and I never saw any of them
again.
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CHAPTER IV.
WILD ANIMALS AND A PANTHER AT NIGHT
After the Indians had gone, we settled down
to camp again, this time at an open savannah
surrounded by jungles. The superintendent of
the expedition soon found himself in difficulties.
He carried a heavy equipment, which Indians
living near, and on whom we were depending,
said could not be taken up the river to our
destination; and thereupon a contest of wills
set up, the Indians offering to take us on
with a light equipment selected from among
our things, and the superintendent vowing that
all the material should go forward. I liked the
plan proposed by the Indians, but could do noth-
ing except advise, as my instructions were to
follow the superintendent for a time at least.
Our camp was not altogether harmonious, yet
there was much of real interest in our surround-
ings, with occasionally an exciting incident.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
Every night jaguars, panthers, and tiger-cats
came prowling about the camp, filling the air
at intervals with their strange cries. The tiger-
cats were not dangerous, but the jaguars and
panthers caused us some alarm. Of all the
sounds in the tropical forests, the cry of the
jaguar is the most awe-inspiring. From all
the tangled growth of the jungle, a myriad
of minor voices constantly fills the early hours
of the night; then a volume of sound breaks
in on the harmony of sound; a roar ending in
a sudden choking, and all is still; from the
forest no sound arises, the jaguar has cried out
on his pathway, and all nature pauses as if in
fear, then, reassured, the voices of the minor
animals begin again, and presently are heard
as before.
One night I heard the voice of an unusually
large jaguar coming nearer and nearer to camp ;
then presently its deep cry was heard close by
the houses, and all was still. It was probably
coming in, but where.? Of course not from the
place where it had last cried out; perhaps it
would sneak along the river-front, or come
crawling in through the long grass of the sa-
vannah. While I waited listening a soft foot-
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fall was heard just by the house, and then a
stealthy step coming through an open room
or piazza. It is preparing to attack, was my
first thought. My bed was most exposed — in
fact, nothing but a door, covered with cheese-
cloth to keep out the mosquitoes, separated me
from the piazza. I sat up listening, and fancied
I heard a deep breathing. I called softly to my
companion, got up, found my pistol, and stood
waiting. Everything was still. Then I whis-
pered, " Let's go out and try for a shot."
My companion whispered assent, and then
said he would open the door, and cautioned me
to be ready if the jaguar should spring through
it. Then he whispered, " Ready ? " opened the
door, and — got behind it. A breath of fresh
air blew in my face, a shiver went down my back.
That was all. An instant I stood waiting, and
then stepped out. But the animal had gone as
stealthily as it had come. Then out came my
companion, all big words and flourish. To-
gether we went about the camp for a time, hop-
ing for a shot. Then the mosquitoes drove us
in, and we went to bed again.
As time passed, wild animals became more
troublesome. One night we were awakened by
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
a great outcrying and cursing coming from
the cook's quarters, and on hurrying out found
the cook with a big club in his hand, and two
or three frightened Indians standing behind
him.
" Them animals beats everything I did see,"
he said, as we came running up. " But the
cheek of the brute! It sneaked right past my
mosquito-net and went to eating at the meat
I had saving for breakfast. I drove at it with
this club, and it got away, through a hole, I
take it."
" What was it ? " we all asked.
" Panther — yellow and big enough for me,
anyway," and the cook looked at us as if to
say, " Those animals are not dangerous ; it's all
Indian talk." We advised him not to attack
panthers with a club at night, but if the thing
came again to call us. Then, after talking a
little, we hurried to our mosquito bars, not hav-
ing noticed till then how the insects were swarm-
ing around us.
Next morning the cook said to me : " Mr.
Frank, I thought it was a lot of rats or I
wouldn't have done it, but I ain't telling that to
them men," pointing to my companions.
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The next night, shortly after we went to bed,
we heard the cook caUing again, and hurried
from our quarters to his aid. As we came run-
ning up, his voice greeted us from under the
mosquito bar, saying, " That panther has come
again, bigger this time, and it's gone in the
cook-house."
We went cautiously and stood looking in at
the open door, where there was quite a large
room, now perfectly dark. We stood there a
moment; then I told the engineer to hold a
torch over my head, and I would go in the room
and try for a shot at the panther. There was
but one door, and I felt sure of a shot this
time.
The engineer called me a blank, blank fool,
a kid, a tenderfoot, and said he would hold no
light at that door.
" Well," I said, " I'm not going to miss this
chance. I'll go in without a light."
" Yes," sneered the engineer, " tenderfoot,
fool, kid. Don't you know better than that,
going in a room with a panther.? You never
saw one before, that's plain. Any mother's baby
would know better."
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
I stepped up to the door, saying, " Are you
going to hold that light ? "
" Here," he said, " give me a torch. Now
go in and let the panther maul you; it will
serve you right."
He held the torch at the door, and I stepped
cautiously into the dimly lighted room. At
first I saw nothing, and stood for what seemed
a long time, the engineer telling me to come
back while I could, and that the brute was only
hiding. I didn't like it very much, and had just
determined to back cautiously out when I heard
something stir, and then over in the corner above
a pile of flour-bags two burning eyes appeared,
glared at me, and were motionless. There was
the game. My chance had come. I raised my
big .44-calibre revolver, took careful aim, shot,
and then repeated, aiming at the same place.
Something fell heavily to the ground, the en-
gineer gave a sort of gasp, and exclaimed,
"The tenderfoot kid, he did kill it." Then
everybody crowded into the room.
We searched with great care, but could not
find the animal. The general opinion was that
it had been badly wounded, and had crawled in
behind some of the stores, and we could get it
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
in the morning. I moved a barrel and caught
sight of a tawny fur, and made a grab for it,
but one of the men caught my arm and held me
back, saying, " Those animals have more lives
than a cat; better be careful." However, the
beast lay perfectly still, and I wanted to see
it that night, and I put my hand down, feeling
it carefully for a moment, then took hold with
both hands, braced myself, laid my strength on
for a big lift, and went over backward as if
I had lost my hold. But I hadn't. My grip
was good enough, and so had been my aim;
but in my hands I held an unfortunate opossum,
and not a very large one at that, except its eyes,
and they were too big for its face.
I didn't mean to hurt that opossum. It
wasn't fit to eat. I had nothing against it.
Why couldn't it have gotten out of a hole in
the roof before I shot, and have made big noise
getting away.? Then I would have had a thrill-
ing tale to tell of adventure with a panther.
As it is, I only killed a night-prowling opossum,
of the kind that smell badly when one gets too
near them.
S6
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CHAPTER V.
AliONE IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE
As the days passed one after another, I made
friends with the neighbouring Indians, and
found them a kindly disposed people, but they
were positive that the river was too rough for
our heavy equipment and clumsy boats, so the
deadlock continued. In camp, when troubles
come, life is a serious problem. The superin-
tendent went to look for men, insisting that
his boats and heavy equipment should go up
the river, wildly declaiming as he left us that
the world contained no torrent strong enough
to turn him aside or check his plans.
We were alone now; for days the neigh-
bouring Indians had refused to come near our
camp. The engineer was dangerously sick, and
the cook objecting violently to the burden of
work. That morning he said to me : " Mr.
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Frank, it ain't no ways reasonable, me to be
cooking and cleaning, cutting wood and fixing
stores; and with him sick and kicking mor'n
enough, there won't be no getting along with
it." Then he sent the axe crashing into the log
he was chopping, and, shouldering a quantity
of wood, marched away to the kitchen. Just
then I heard the engineer asking for water,
which I hurried to give him. Something had
to be done. Salt provisions and heavy work
promised to make us all sick. It was still early
in the morning. I knew that seven to nine miles
across the jungles and savannahs there was an
Indian village, and I resolved that I would go
there and find help. I took my rifle, gave some
directions to the cook, and hinted to a little
Spaniard who hung around camp that if he
would mind his own business it would be appre-
ciated. Then I hurried out on the trail to look
for help. I had never been alone in the tropical
jungles, and was all excitement with a sort of
fear because of the unknown in the wilderness
about me. Gradually this feeling wore off, and,
as the day passed, my only anxiety was that
night might come before I could find the Indian
village. I knew that it was a long way before
38
AND ACROSS PANAMA
I started, but now as the narrow trail led me
on and on, sometimes through a dense jungle,
again in and out and among the great trees of
an open forest, or through tangled bushes
along the edge of the savannah, it seemed as
though I would never reach the end, and now
anxiety and fears of a lonely night in the jun-
gles were my constant companions. I was alone,
and, perhaps, like a lost man, becoming panic-
stricken ; yet I hurried on, and late in the after-
noon saw a group of trees and little houses some
distance ahead across the savannah. Urging
my steps, I presently reached the village, tired
and hungry, only to find the place deserted.
Sometimes the Indians go away for days, and I
looked anxiously for signs of life. Then from
one of the houses I heard voices, and on hurry-
ing to the door and looking in, I saw one of
the most beautiful examples of Indian life that
I have ever known. The house was full of chil-
dren, little and big, all perfectly contented, talk-
ing together and laughing pleasantly. The
boys were mending bows and arrows, or swing-
ing in hammocks. The girls were busy at min-
iature housekeeping, and the very little ones
were either asleep or staring contentedly at the
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
others. Outside it was all burning sun, but in
the hut there was subdued light and cool air,
like that of the deep woodlands.
For an instant, I watched the half-naked chil-
dren, as healthy and graceful as little wild ani-
mals; then they saw me. The bigger boys
caught up their knives, their bows, and their
arrows, and stood defiantly in front of the girls ;
but just for an instant; the next moment some
of the boys who had been at our camp recog-
nized me, weapons were thrown aside, and I was
receiving a welcome such as can be had only in
the boisterous good- will of healthy children.
Then some got a hammock for me, others took
off my boots, while still others ran to bring
fruits and cool water. In a very short time
I was most comfortable, and had quite for-
gotten the burning sun and long tramp. Pres-
ently some of the children came, bringing an
old woman — the grandmother of all the vil-
lage. She could speak a little English, and on
learning that I wanted some men, said that they
had all gone hunting, but would come back at
night. Then she had the children gather up
my things, and we all went to her house, where
40
AND ACROSS PANAMA
she and some younger women immediately be-
gan preparing a good dinner for me.
When all was ready I was brought a large
wooden plate, and the food was placed around
my hammock in gourds, each presided over by
a bright little Indian child, armed with a forked
stick, with which to pick up the food and trans-
fer it to my plate as I might want it. I had
boiled chicken, rice, yams, plantain, smoked wild
pork, yucca, and various fruits. The children
were eager in their service, and it was a beau-
tiful dinner. Before me was the intense sun-
light and deep blue sky over the open savannah,
around me a pleasant shade and soft breeze
blowing in at the wide-open door, and the
children, pretty little creatures, laughed and
chatted together, each eagerly pressing me to
eat of what he or she had to offer; while the
old Indian woman sat looking on, all smiles at
my enjoyment of her things, her satisfaction
increasing every moment, and I must confess
that I did eat a lot, but then there was plenty.
After dinner I amused the people showing them
my watch, compass, and the few other things
I had with me, and presently evening came,
and with it the people of the village : men laden
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with game from their hunting, and women bear-
ing fruits and vegetables from their gardens
and cultivations among the woodlands.
So soon as my Indian friends learned that the
superintendent had left camp, they were all
quite ready to go with me, but I wanted only
two men, and, having picked out a pair of
sturdy -looking fellows, we all went to the chief's
house to sit around and have a talk. The chil-
dren came, too, but now they were quite subdued
in the presence of the men, and sat meekly
looking on. From time to time women came
in to look at the white stranger; each carried
a torch, and generally an armful of gourd
dishes, all very much alike, which probably they
had been washing; these were all laid on the
ground in front of the house, while the Indian
women came in to satisfy their curiosity. Pres-
ently one came along with her torch and a
good supply of gourds in her arms. She placed
them on the ground with care, laying the torch
beside them, and came stalking in with a savage
look at the boys. Evidently she was no fa-
vourite with them; there was a whispered con-
sultation, then the little scamps sneaked cau-
tiously out of the door, went to her torch, and
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
carefully made two torches of it, putting each
in a separate place a little distance apart; then
they divided her gourds, placing some by each
torch ; after that they hid behind some 'bushes
and waited. Presently the woman, having sat-
isfied her curiosity, went out, and walked up
to the nearest pile of gourds with a puzzled
expression; she had brought eight, now there
were only three, with a small torch, and hers
had been a big one ; then she went to the others,
then she came back to the first, and went angrily
toward the others again. Evidently she wished
to be careful about touching what might not
belong to her, and now stood looking about her
with an angry, puzzled expression. Then a
stifled laugh came from behind the bushes; in-
stantly she seemed to grasp the situation; with
one sweep of her long arm she gathered up her
gourds and made a dash for the boys, but they
were too quick for her, and, scattering in all
directions, the half -naked little scamps went
dancing about among the houses, screaming
with laughter and delight at her efforts to catch
them. For some time she kept up an angry,
determined chase, but finally gave in and went
to her hut, with loud expressions of opinion that
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sounded like very bad words. The men laughed
heartily, and, encouraged by this, the boys came
with doubtful steps into the house, but the chief
made a sign to the young men, and the boys
made a wild dash for the door. It was no use
this time; they were soon caught, their ears
were soundly boxed, and for a time lamentations
filled the village.
I talked with the Indians late into the night,
and then slept on a mahogany board under a
good mosquito-net, and would have been com-
fortable if only I could have found one soft
spot on that board. In the morning I and my
two men tramped back to our camp, where the
Indians soon made us comfortable.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER VI.
A STARTLING PEOPOSITION AND A HEAVY FLOOD
Foe, a time the days went on pleasantly
enough, but after awhile we began to feel some-
what anxious about the superintendent, and as
the days lengthened into weeks we talked of
sending out a searching party. Then word
came to us that yellow fever was raging all
along the coast, and that the superintendent
was dead. At this we decided that our plans
must be changed, yet to go back to the coast
seemed unwise; and finally it was agreed that
I should go on alone to the interior, and that
our two remaining companions should stay with
our supplies till men and proper equipment
could be sent down the river to take them all
to our destination.
Arrangements were easily made with the
Indians, for they were all eager to serve me.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
and a few days later I left camp in company
with a number of them, who had come to take
me to their village, the first stopping-point on
my journey to the interior. A moment of mu-
tual parting, instructions, a hurried good-bye,
and I turned away with my Indian friends.
As we went, they talked continually of the rich
beauty and resources of their country ; for
what reason I did not know till I arrived at
their village, where I found a number of lead-
ing men, who, after extending salutations of
welcome, made me a rather startling proposi-
tion. It appeared that four villages in that
country were constantly at strife, each with
the other, and they wanted a new chief to pre-
side over all four, a dignity to which I had
been duly appointed, and they proposed to
build me a new village, or, rather, a collection
of huts, where it was proposed that I should
marry and settle down, but the marrying was
serious because each of the four villages ex-
pected to be represented in my establishment.
First I was to marry a daughter of each of
the village chiefs, — that made four as princi-
pal wives; then I was to marry a relative of
each chief's principal wife, one from each vil-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
lage, — that made eight ; then, after marrying
eight Indian girls selected for me by others,
I was to select a wife from each village as I
might fancy; a total of twelve wives offered
all at once.
The Indians could not understand why I did
not accept at once an offer so liberal in all its
conditions, and I was anxious enough to find
some excuse for declining without giving them
offence. After we had consulted together for
a long time, I told them that, according to the
laws of my fathers, which were of course bind-
ing on me, a man could have but one wife, and
that I could by no means become the common
bond through which the contending villages
might be united. Yet I was fearful of offend-
ing their women, for they were proud of their
attractions.
There was a beautiful little Indian baby girl
about four years old in that village, named
Dropm, and just at that time she happened
to be sitting on my knee looking at me intently
with grave, wondering eyes. So I told the peo-
ple that I could not be contented with any one
but Dropin, and as she was so young, I would
have to wait for her to grow. The people were
47
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
disappointed, but accepted the excuse, and
little Dropm became a personage of importance.
Then I gave her a lot of things, such as I had,
a bright silk handkerchief, metal buttons,
safety-pins, etc. ; and her delight was beyond
her ability to express. Then I nominated a
boy to take care of her, which was equivalent
to providing a husband, gave the chief some
money to buy her a cow, and I had done suffi-
cient. No doubt I have long since been for-
gotten, though, for myself, I often think of
the pretty Indian baby and wonder what has
become of her.
In the same village I met a boy who some
days before had come to camp, asking that I
would give him some medicine for ugly sores
and a skin disease on his legs and feet; and I
was pleased to find that he was now quite well.
He could not speak my language, but as a
means of expressing his thanks he came to show
me the places where the sores had been, and
then stood by my side till late in the evening.
That night it rained, and in the morning
the river was up and a mighty flood was on;
all around, where yesterday there had been
green savannahs, was one expanse of water,
48
AND ACROSS PANAMA
and the higher ground on which the village
stood was an island, with the water still rising
around it.
Even the Indians looked on in amazement.
Then a rumour started that my friends at camp
were being washed away, and that most prob-
ably all would be killed.
I called my men, and told them to go back
to camp, which was within easy reach now by
canoe across the flooded savannah, and help
could be sent quickly; but the men said they
would not go; it was too dangerous. In vain
I scolded and entreated, they would not go.
Their engagement to go up the river they ac-
knowledged, and were prepared to obey any or-
ders for that trip I might give at any time.
Then I determined to gain my point with strong
words. So calling them to the canoes, I said,
" Get your things, we will start now."
The chief translated, and dismay filled their
faces. I took my place in the canoe and re-
peated my order. " But we will certainly be
killed," said the chief, " no canoe can live in the
rapids just above here with such a flood."
"Good," I said, "we wiU all be killed; so
will my friends unless you go to their aid, and
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
why should I not die with them? Now take
your choice, go down the river to help my
friends or start up the river with me at once,
and we will all go to ' Hell ' together."
They looked at me, and I looked at them.
Then the chief said, " Me go," and after that
they all assented.
It was easy for them to push a light canoe
across the flooded meadows, and that evening
they all came back, the chief bringing a letter
from my friends assuring me that they were
all well at camp.
Later, I heard that the chief had expressed
a rather strong opinion in regard to my char-
acter, saying to my friends at camp, " Yes, he
a good man, he a much good man, but, oh, God.
he a devil."
50
AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER VII.
A ROW IN CAMP
The next day word came to me that the
superintendent had returned, and was most
anxious that I should come back to camp, which
I naturally prepared to do at once.
The river was still at flood, though the
savannah was now free from water. Two fine
young Indians were directed to take me, a
canoe was prepared, and we were shortly on our
way, the swift current carrying us down the
river with almost appalling force. It was a
long way, for the river made numerous windings,
and it was late in the afternoon when we ar-
rived in camp. I was surprised to find that a
number of my Indian friends had also come to
our camp, having made their way, through all
the dangerous wind, across the lately flooded
savannah. As I went toward the house, one of
51
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
them whispered, " If he fights, come out to us."
Then they all sat about indifferently, and one
would have thought they had no concern in me
at all.
My meeting with the superintendent was
strained. He had failed utterly in his search
for men, and there was little to be said, at least
I had nothing to say, and simply waited to hear
him.
We were all sitting in front of one of the
huts, I watching the sun set, and wondering at
the volume of water in the flooded river just
before us; then from the other side I saw a
great animal come out of the woods, where for
an instant it stood in bold outline against the
sunset. " What is that.? " I cried, " a tapir or
what.? " An Indian sitting near said, " Tiger,"
and in an instant there was commotion in camp.
Supremely quiet, the great jaguar stood look-
ing across the water; then with a slow move-
ment, his eyes fixed on us, he walked to the
river and began to swim as if intent on reaching
where we stood and beginning the attack. He
must have been well hungry to attack so many
people, but a hungry jaguar will do anything.
We rushed for our rifles, and before the jaguar
52
Cl!^'" 7*" '
M-^^*-^'
AND ACROSS PANAMA
could cross the broad river all were prepared
for him. " You saw it, your shot," whispered
one of the Indians, as we stood waiting. Then
I stepped ahead of the others, feeling sure of
my game this time. I wanted the skin, and had
just determined to let the beast reach shallow
water on our side of the river, feeling sure I
could kill before it sprang on us, when one of
my companions fired over my shoulder, taking
my shot, and killing the game while it was yet
in deep water. For a moment or two it strug-
gled, making a magnificent effort to reach
shore, then sinking below, the surface, disap-
peared for ever, carried down by the swift
current.
This incident put us in a bad humour, and
the superintendent began demanding money,
asking that I should make heavy drafts on New
York, though how he expected to obtain money
on them in the wild jungles was past my com-
prehension. I agreed, however, that I would
give him the drafts, provided he would take a
light cargo and go on with the Indians to our
destination. He refused, and after consulting
my Indian friends, I decided that no more
money could be given him unless he agreed to
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
go on, make such progress as he could, and give
up his schemes in regard to navigating the
Patuca River, in which I had no interest what-
ever. Then there was a scene, threats and wild
language; the superintendent had been drink-
ing, and was little better than a madman.
Presently his thoughts centred on an idea that
he would go back to the settlements, and up
the road to the interior, and there revoke certain
transfers of property before I could have them
registered. This registry was one of the most
important matters that had been entrusted to
me. The question was rather serious, and I
consulted with others before answering him;
while he, all complacent, thought I was cornered.
I was assured that if he went back to the coast
he could not get through the dead-line, because
yellow fever was raging in the settlements. The
dead-line is a rather peculiar though effective
quarantine; a line is drawn across the road
from an infected place, and a notice is posted
up ; a guard stationed to protect the line, and
whoever attempts to cross from the infected side
is immediately shot. I hardly believed this
statement, but I was convinced that there was
some impediment to travel, and that to reach
54
AND ACROSS PANAMA
the interior from the infected coast would be
difficult, and probably slow work. Fortunately
we were above the dead-line, and I determined
to make my way across the wilderness to the
capital ; if my companion came with me I could
claim the right of registry, and if he went by
way of the coast I could probably beat him in.
Once more I tried to persuade him that our
best interests were to go on, but words were use-
less, and a race for the mines was in order.
I arranged as best I could. Of the money
we had, I took one hundred and fifty dollars in
silver, and gave the balance, several hundred
dollars, to the engineer of our expedition, tell-
ing him to remain at camp till I could send
help from the capital. Then, with the few
things packed which were to be my outfit, I
waited anxiously for an opportunity to begin
my journey.
55
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER VHI.
ALONE WITH THE INDIANS AGAIN
In a few days a crew of Sumu Indians came
up the river and stopped for the night at our
camp. They agreed to take me with them as
far as they were going, but did not think I
could succeed in getting over the mountains.
They said that there were plenty of men at their
village, a place called Gualpatante, and as I
felt sure I could arrange with some of them,
I determined to push on.
I got my things together and next morning
we started. Their canoe was unusually large,
made from a single mahogany log, and capable
of carrying six or seven tons.
Eight men made up the crew, rough-looking
fellows, such as I had never seen before, and
I wondered what was to be my fate with them.
The captain of the crew was old and bent, look-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
ing almost like a hunchback; his arms reached
down below his knees ; his neck was long, skinny,
and protruding; he had only one tooth, which
had grown up to the length of a boar's tusk;
one eye was knocked out, his nose and chin
almost met, his long, unkempt hair hung about
his naked shoulders ; and to make his appear-
ance more frightful, one-half his face was
painted black, which brought his protruding
cheek-bones into peculiar prominence.
I looked at him in astonishment, not unmixed
with fear, and he was in truth a strange, for-
bidding-looking object. The Indians quickly
put my things in the canoe, the old Indian
motioned me to a seat, and my journey had be-
gun, my companion sneeringly remarking that
he would wait for me at the capital, where I
would find the property made away with, and
all because of my headstrong folly in refusing
his orders. The time for words was past; I
invited him to go with me, but he would not;
and then the men pushed out in the stream, and
began a vigorous paddling which soon took
us around a bend in the river, and I was alone
with these strange, half -naked Indians, per-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
plexed and doubting the wisdom of the course
I was pursuing.
I was not long in finding out that I was in
good company, and the strange old Indian was
as careful of me as if I had been his child. I
soon forgot my fears in the novelty of my sur-
roundings, and then anxiety gave place to
thorough enjoyment.
As we ascended the river the scene gradually
changed, and presently we were among the first
undulations of the mountains, and after two
days, had reached the lower foot-hills, and were
surrounded by all that one could dream of in
a tropical paradise. At night we camped on the
sand-bars, and in a few minutes the Indians
would have game and fish in abundance. Then
we would eat, and it seemed as if I could not
get enough, and fortunately there was no end
to the supply.
Two days more, and we reached the Indian
village, a place called Gualpatante; the men
took my things to one of the larger houses, and
the people crowded around to see me.
I immediately began negotiations for men
to take me on my way, and was meeting with
some success when all my hopes were ruined at
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
a sign from the old Indian, whose name, I
learned, was Tusa. He was a most remarkable
person; the oldest people in the village said
that when they were children he was just as I
found him — old, temperate in all things, and
powerfully strong. While we were coming up
the river the men had on several occasions been
unable to make headway against the current,
which at times was very swift. Old Tusa
carried a great paddle, bigger than himself, and
at these times he would give one long sweep with
it deep in the water, and the great canoe would
tremble at the force; then another sweep of his
broad paddle, and the canoe would move ahead
slowly; then the men would get it in control
again, and we would creep steadily on to
quieter water; the old Indian making himself
comfortable in a lazy attitude in the stem of the
canoe. And this was the man who had me in
his power, and I began to be anxious again, and
wonder why he was unwilling that I should go
on.
I was well treated, and if I could have spoken
to them fluently or understood what they said,
I felt sure that all would soon be arranged ; but
my few words of the Indian language seemed to
59
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
be lost on old Tusa, who spoke only a very little
English and Spanish. Conversation was not
brilliant. Each morning old Tusa would come
down to see me and say : " Where going to-
day?"
" Up the river," I would reply.
" No, can't go."
" But I want to — I must," I would protest.
" No, can't go."
" But I will," I would say, angrily, at times.
" No, can't go. Where going to-day ? Stone
tings; flower tings; butterfly tings; hunt?"
I was interested in collecting specimens, and
would generally choose one or another excur-
sion proposed. The old man would give a
satisfied grunt, and then, after a brief direction
to one of the young men, who apparently never
thought of disobeying him, I would be taken
out in the woods; and game, insects, botanical
or geological specimens would be found to my
fullest satisfaction.
But as the days accumulated, I gave up going
out, and all my thoughts were concentrated on
getting away from that old Indian. He would
have taken me back to the camp down the river
at any time, but he would not take me on, nor
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
would he let me go, and I began to fear that he
had an understanding with the superintendent
to detain me. Twice I nearly succeeded, but
he stopped me each time, and I grew more and
more anxious.
What he meant to do I could not tell, and I
was in despair, even expecting that later he in-
tended to have me killed.
The Indians were drinking a good part of
the time, and how I learned to hate those drunken
feasts. Tusa never went to them, but the other
men would soon become hopelessly intoxicated,
and then would promise to take me anywhere,
and that would be the end of it, only promises.
They drank fermented sugar-cane juice which
was prepared by women who sat around a big
trough chewing cane and spitting the juice till
they had filled the trough; then it was allowed
to ferment. When properly fermented, the
boys would gather with their reed pipes and
the men would drink to the accompaniment of
their droning music, just the same thing over
and over again, all in disorder, yet not unpleas-
ing in its effect ; and finally the men would fall
into a helpless drunken stupor, though at times
angry quarrels would take place, and the In-
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dians, wild with drink, would threaten all sorts
of violence. At such times old Tusa would
hurry over to my house, and forbid my going
out. Usually he stayed with me until the row
was over, and I could not understand why he
was so careful of me, and yet kept me so closely
guarded.
A few days later I learned why this was. I
had lost three weeks when a large canoe came
up the river filled with Indians, but among them
there was a white man, a fine fellow who was
building up a trade in rubber with the Indians.
I had been living in his house, and old Tusa
proposed to deliver me safe and sound to my
host. This he did with but little ceremony, and
as he went out of the door he said to me : " Now
can go," and walked off entirely satisfied.
My new friend said that the old Indian had
done me a great service, as I would certainly
have been killed if I had gone on without being
properly prepared; and as it was he did not
think it would be possible for me to get through,
and advised me most seriously to go back, and
give up the idea; it was no trip for a white
man not accustomed to the most trying expo-
sures. Then, if one did not die from the ex-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
posure, there were the wild animals ; and if not
these, then the Indians, almost as dangerous,
and altogether he thought it would be impossi-
ble for me. But when I explained the situation,
he said he thought it was taking big risks, but
he would do the best he could for me.
He told me I might take my choice of evils.
He could give me Mosquito men who would take
me up the rapids safely, but might lose their
way in the woods, which would mean death;
then he could give me men from his village, but
though they knew the trail well, they would
perhaps have an accident in the rapids ; which,
if it did not kill me, would certainly mean the
loss of all my things ; or he could give me the
wild men, who would be coming down with their
rubber the next day. These were perfect river
hands and sure woodmen; but they were mur-
derous, and not to be depended on, yet if I was
careful with them they would probably take me
through safely. I determined to cast in my lot
with the wild men, and then my friend gave me
careful directions how to treat them. Their
last murder had been to secure forty dollars sil-
ver, quite a fortune to them. I now had only
one hundred dollars silver, little enough with the
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
journey ahead of me. This I was not to show
on any account. Then I was not to give them
directions, but simply allow them to take me.
I would fall in with a tribe called the Piyu
Indians, some of whom were very dangerous,
and, though cowardly, would sneak up to one
at night, cut one's throat, and run; and on no
account was I to sleep in their houses till I got
to the interior valleys; where they were per-
fectly reliable, and I would be safe.
Then I gave my friend the money to pay the
men, and he proposed to tell them he was ad-
vancing it to me, and that I had none. He said
he would engage three men and two women as
my guides and pack-bearers, because the men
rarely murdered a person when the women were
near.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER IX.
OVER THE MOUNTAINS WITH INDIAN MURDEREES
The following day preparations were made,
and, true to their appointment, the men came
down that morning, a whole lot of them, with
several canoe-loads of rubber. I was glad to
see that a number of women were with them, and
was overjoyed to learn that they proposed to
go back to their mountains the next morning.
They looked as wild as monkeys, but their stout
muscles spoke well for their ability as wood and
river men.
A bargain was quickly made ; my friend gave
them their money, and, after making some
presents, in which old Tusa was especially re-
membered, I set out again with a fair prospect
of reaching the interior settlements. The first
day the men did excellent work, and the next
reached the Wampoo River, and continued on
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the way to their village at a junction with it
and the Po River. It had been a long, hard
day's work for them, and just as I was con-
gratulating myself on our quick time they an-
nounced that they must rest one day before
starting out again.
There was no help for it, and so I determined
to amuse myself as best I could, and when night
came I began to think the time had not been a
loss, for these were a strange people, and it
is seldom the lot of a traveller to faU in with
them.
That night the etiquette of the woods re-
quired that I should hand my firearms to my
host, to prove my confidence in him; usually
they are handed back at once, but this Indian
kept them, and I began to wish I had not been so
particular, and I missed my good friend, as I
call my pistol, sorely that night, though I didn't
have any occasion to use it; yet there is some-
thing companionable about a pistol, and I would
have slept more soundly if it had been by my
side.
The following day the men continued resting,
but in the afternoon I was delighted to see them
making preparations to start the next mornings
66
AND ACROSS PANAMA
A little later I threw the town into a state of
excitement because of some paper pinwheels
that I made to amuse the children. The men
wanted them at once, and I used up numerous
pins and nearly all my paper before they were
satisfied. When all were supplied, it was an
amusing sight as these fully-grown men pranced
and ran about among the houses, shouting and
kicking up their heels like a lot of children ; the
women following around after them equally
deHghted, and full of excitement. The fun
lasted for about an hour, and then the pin-
wheels were worn out, and the village settled
down again.
The next morning the chief said they were
ready to go on, but to my surprise and alarm
I found that five men were to be my companions,
and that the women were not going at all.
There was no help for it, now; to return was
impossible, and if they intended to murder me
I could not escape them by going back; so I
made the best of the situation and we started.
The men made good progress, and about noon
we reached a little Indian village called Po.
Here my chief and the chief of Po sat down tp
have a talk together.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
After a time the chief of Po said to my chief,
" Well, are you going to kill this one ? " To
which my chief replied, " I don't know, yet ; I
must get him up in the woods first and see if he
has any money, and besides, the trader takes care
of him and perhaps he will only die in the
woods." I could understand some words of their
language, but they fell to talking about other
things, which I could not understand, and I went
to sit alone and consider my prospects. It did
not seem very encouraging, but the road led on,
not back.
We soon were under way again, following the
river as it wound ever on up, and still up among
the mountains.
Sometimes the rapids were really dangerous,
and it was wonderful to see the way in which
those Indians managed the shallow dugout or
pit pan, as they called it. One stood in front
with a long pole to keep it off the rocks, two
paddled, one bailed the water out, and one stood
behind, steering with a long pole. When we
came to a rapid they would shout to me to sit
still, which was all I could do; I was so fright-
ened I scarcely dared to breath, while those men,
shouting with excitement, made their way along
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
the sides of rapids which to me seemed impass-
able.
At times we would come to long stretches of
quiet water, and then to other rapids, and so
on up and up, the men shooting iguanas and
catching turtles and fish as we went.
Iguana is said to be very fine eating, but after
a time I could not bear the sight of it, though
it seemed good at first. There was plenty of
turtle at all times, however, and so I got along
very well.
It was strange to see the Indians catch turtles
and fish. A turtle would slip off a log into the
water, and at the same time an Indian would
dive lightly from the boat, and it was rarely
indeed that they missed them. A certain In-
dian named Wee Wee was particularly expert,
and if he saw a frightened fish hide itself as
we passed on up the river, he would slip quietly
over the side of the canoe, and nearly always
succeeded in catching it.
At one part of the journey we found our-
selves in a deep ravine, which was so high up
among the mountains that we could look back
out of it over a great stretch of country and
lower mountains, and as we sat in the cool shade
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
of the canon, where the water was still and deep,
and where the rocks were all covered with or-
chids, ferns, and mosses, it seemed, looking out
over the distant country, as if something was
about to overwhelm us or that we were soon to
be swept over a cataract, it was all so strange
and unearthly.
One morning, after sleeping by the river
bank, I noticed two little red spots on my arm,
considerably above the elbow ; at times they were
very painful, and after a day or two became
almost unbearable and had grown quite large.
I tried to press them out, thinking they were
boils, and that the sun made them hurt so se-
verely. I was sure something was in there, so,
getting a bunch of flesh up between my fingers,
I pressed with considerable force, and to my
astonishment a white, threadlike worm began
to appear, and as I pressed harder a large grub
popped out and fell in my hand. It looked like
a bottle with a long neck tapering to a thread,
and had black hair at the folds of its skin.
Then I took another out of the smaller sore, and
thought I would have no more trouble with
them; but in this I was mistaken, and my arm
began to swell rapidly, aching miserably, while
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
green matter collected in the openings left where
the grubs had been. After a time these condi-
tions became so alarming that I showed my arm
to the chief, who said it was very bad, that it
was the mosquito grub, and that I should have
told him sooner. Then he went to the woods
and brought back a root, which he masticated
with some chewing tobacco, and placed the mass
in the sores, after which they healed with what
I thought unusual rapidity. I am told that I
made a lucky escape, as the sores following the
expulsion of these grubs are at times danger-
ous ; rarely so, however, if taken out while they
are yet small, and only those who are ignorant
in respect to them suffer any damage.
It is said that a long black mosquito lays the
eggs that produce these grubs; how, nobody
has any idea, and at times they are very annoy-
ing. After that experience I was careful to
sleep under my mosquito bar, and have been
careful to do so ever since while travelling in
the tropics.
After we had gone a short distance further,
the Indians stopped, saying that we had reached
the limit of canoe navigation, and must now
make our way across the mountains on foot.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
Our things were soon landed, the canoe drawn
well up on the bank, and then the men said they
would have to rest for three days. Here was
more trouble. We had been unusually slow as-
cending the river, we had rested a day and a
half at Wampoo, and I had lost three weeks at
Gualpatante. With such progress as this it
seemed only reasonable to expect that my rival
would gain the victory and destroy the com-
pany's titles before I could succeed in having
them registered.
I was anxious enough, and tried every pos-
sible means to start the men on, but it was of
no use, and we lost the balance of that day, and
there seemed no prospect of moving for all the
week.
Next morning I tried again, and offered to
throw away a lot of my things and make their
packs lighter, but it was of no avail. Then I
thought of a bottle of brandy in one of my
cases, and offered it to them for the evening
if they would go on.
This suited their fancy. They will do any-
thing for whiskey or brandy, and arrangements
were soon made. I threw away a lot of my
things, and gave a woollen shirt to one of the
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
young men, who was really sick from cold and
exposure, and I threw away all the things in
his pack, so he had nothing to carry. Among
my clothes was a canvas hunting-coat, having
the usual brass buttons with animals' heads.
The chief took a great fancy to it, saying,
" Give me this," a number of times. I was not
well pleased, and told him I would see him fur-
ther first, yet he took such a fancy to it, going
back time after time to look at it, all the while
regarding me with glittering, envious eyes, that
I thought if this man would murder to secure
forty dollars from a person who trusted him
as guide, he would probably do as much to
secure the coat that he fancied so avariciously,
consequently I gave it to him, and then all were
contented.
It was a pity to throw away so many useful
things, but regrets were unavailing, so shoulder-
ing my rifle, which I had been told never to
trust out of my hands, we started, the chief
leading the way.
At first the trail was easy, and I began to
think that reports were exaggerated, but pres-
ently we came to a stream that must be forded.
I started to undress, as it was deep, but the
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chief said, " No use ; can't stop ; must walk
river," which was Kterally true. We had to
scramble along its rough banks, in and out of
the water, make thirty-three deep fordings and
climb up and down all sorts of places.
The novelty kept up my enthusiasm, but
about the middle of the day I became very tired,
and once slipped over quite a precipice, and
would have fallen headlong if one of the young
men, who was just below me, had not caught me
in his arms. I fell right into them, and though
I am pretty heavy, his strength did not yield
to my weight. It seemed as if I had fallen
against a well-braced pair of posts, and then
the way he lifted me to a safe place, as though
I weighed nothing, made me regard him with
unusual respect, and there was something about
the care with which he handled me that made
me feel much more secure with these wild men.
After struggling on for a short distance, we
fell in with a number of wild hogs. I was too
tired to shoot, but, telling the chief how to use
the sights, I handed him my rifle, knowing that
in the excitement of the moment he would think
only of the wild hogs. He took careful aim,
and to my surprise his first shot with a rifle was
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
a success, and we had a large wild hog that
would give plenty of meat. We now pushed
on higher up among the mountains, and finally
made camp in a grove of giant mahogany-
trees.
The men built a rancho of broad vijao leaves,
and then asked about the whiskey I had prom-
ised them. I told them we would have it as soon
as I put on some dry clothes.
Then they went to work preparing the pig,
and presently I called them to me, holding up
a bottle covered with a neat straw case, so that
they could all see it. They came at once crowd-
ing around me, and I stood there holding the
bottle, still covered with its straw case. It was
a scene that I will never forget, and even now
I can fancy, almost, that their wild, excited
faces are pressing close about me. It was a
repulsive sight, with the cords of their necks
rigid, their bloody hands clutching their great
knives, their eyes protruding, indicating the
intense strain of beastly anticipation; the In-
dians stood with their whole beings rooted hun-
grily on that covered bottle.
I held it up for an instant, and then with a
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
flourish drew off the straw case — and found
that the bottle was empty.
The dark rage of disappointment that came
over those faces sent my frightened wits to the
winds. For an instant my life was not worth
a cry to save it, nor could I realize what was
happening. In his rage, the chief standing
next me raised his knife, but, as he was bringing
it down on me, the instinct of self-preservation
caused me to start back, and to accuse the man at
my side of stealing the whiskey ; then the knife
that was intended for me was turned and thrust
at him, and but for my interposing my hand
he would have been killed. He had carried the
pack containing the whiskey, and now the mad-
dened Indians turned on him, giving no heed
to his protests; he had carried the whiskey,
and it was gone. His face changed with fright
to a brownish gray, and then, my wits coming
back, I threw myself between him and the
threatening knives. Now I saw what had hap-
pened; the top of the bottle was broken, and
I led the men over to my pack ; they followed,
probably expecting a fresh bottle. Then I
showed them my clothes soaked with brandy.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
and their rage turned to despair; they almost
wept, and the five sat on a log together, a piti-
ful sight in their disappointment.
Taking advantage of the lull in the storm,
I promised them that, on reaching the settle-
ments, they should have as fine a drunk as the
law would allow. They were quieted at this
promise, and with a sort of mournful acquies-
cence went dejectedly to work again preparing
the pig and getting dinner. We had roast pig
and a kind of biscuit that they made out of
flour, salt, and water; the dough rolled up in
thin strips, protected by leaves, and roasted
over the fire.
The dinner was good, and we ate nearly the
whole of that pig and all the biscuit. I was
soon ready for bed, and on turning in took the
precaution of getting under my mosquito-net
and keeping my pistol in my hand.
The men were holding a consultation together
in subdued voices, but I did not notice this, and
presently they all went to bed. I fell asleep
holding my pistol in my hand, and I can re-
member indistinctly that a torch was held near
the net so as to light up the inside for a time.
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and, half -awakened, I seemed to see ugly faces
peering through at me. Perhaps they saw the
pistol, and so kept off, but it might have been
that I was only dreaming.
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CHAPTER X.
TREACHERY AND POISON
We did not make a very early start next
morning, and the men were slow getting break-
fast, but at last it was brought to me, biscuit
and some tinned meat, with a choice piece of
wild pig, apparently saved especially for my
benefit. I ate heartily, and then we started
on, the trail now leading us up a steep moun-
tain.
Presently I began to feel sick, and then to
grow dizzy, and after a time could only strug-
gle along. The chief saw it, was indifferent,
and went on ; then two other men followed him,
and the two younger men, who were a little
behind, came up and were passing on with the
others. Apparently they were all leaving me
alone in the woods. I ordered the two young
men to stop, but they would not. I made a
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motion with my hand, reaching for my pistol.
This checked them, and we all sat down. Then
I sent one of them for water, which he was a
long time bringing, and after drinking a quan-
tity I felt better. I do not think they intended
to kill me with poison, but only gave me some-
thing that would make me sick, and then it
would be an easy thing to let me lose my way.
I rested awhile, and, having drunk a quantity
of water, was ready to go on again. After a
time we overtook the others sitting by the road-
side, and the boys got a fine blowing up from
the chief in words which I could not understand.
I made poor progress that day, and it was hard
work to keep up at all. We fell in with a flock
of wild turkeys ; I handed my rifle to the chief,
and he killed an unusually large one, which gave
us plenty of fresh meat again. We did not
go much farther, and at night made camp in
a beautiful ravine among the mountains, where
there was a stream so cold that I could scarcely
bathe in it. On one side was a high precipice,
and a sloping mountain on the other, with a
little open place of fresh, green grass by the
stream. It was an enchanting place, and I be-
gan to feel better at once.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
Keeping my pistol ready at my side, I took no
special notice of the Indians. They were hold-
ing a whispered conversation, and after a time
seemed to agree on some point, and began pre-
paring the camp for the night. Presently the
chief came to me, and said in Spanish : " A
bad place for tigers [jaguars] here; two men
have been eaten, and we are afraid."
" Never mind," I said, " I have my rifle and
pistol, and will kill them if they come."
" But jou are under your mosquito-net and in
no danger." Which was true; a jaguar, or
tiger, as they call them, will walk around a
mosquito bar all night, often forming a beaten
track about it, but it has never been known to
make an attack. " Yes," the chief continued,
" for you no danger, but for us, we have no
guns; give me your rifle and I will take good
care of you."
Not wishing to refuse at once, I said he could
have it when I went to bed, and with a look
of triumph and delight he went back to tell the
others.
Here was a predicament, and I began to con-
sider earnestly how I was to get out of it. The
Indians were now in another mysterious consul-
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tation, and presently they came to me, and the
chief said, " The tigers are so bad here we are
afraid with only the rifle ; give this man your
pistol, and we will sleep each side of you and
keep you very safe; no harm will come, not
anything."
I replied, " When I go to bed you can have
it." They were delighted, and went off to^
gether, but they soon came back, asking if I
had anything else that would shoot. On being
told that I had not, they asked if I would not
let them have my big knife, because the tigers
were so dangerous, and they would be afraid
even with the pistol and the rifle. Evidently the
plan was to disarm me entirely, and I told them
to wait till I went to bed, and they could then
have what they wanted. I kept my firearms
carefully in my hand, and was glad to find that
they did not demand them at once, and so I re-
mained, considering.
The men were now in high spirits, and went
to work getting supper, and making up a very
comfortable bed for me.
As soon as the turkey was ready, they all sat
around, picking out choice pieces for me, and
urging me to eat all that I could. Then they
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
had their supper, and after that went down to
the stream to clean up the dishes, chattering
like a lot of children. The mosquito-net was
hanging conveniently, and lifting up one cor-
ner, I slipped my rifle, pistol, and hunting-knife
under it, crawled in myself, and with my pistol
in my hand sat up waiting for developments.
I could see out very well, but, as the net was
made of unbleached muslin, no one could tell
exactly where I was, and, if there should be any
attempt to cut through at me, I could shoot
before the knife could find me out. The In-
dians seemed to know this. When they came
back, they walked around the net, talked, con-
sidered, and finally gave it up, and each one
went to bed. Then I felt relieved and was soon
asleep, well assured that I was perfectly safe till
the morning.
I was up early, and met a rather ugly crowd
of Indians. No breakfast was prepared, and I
had to get along with the remains of the turkey
and some crackers. The men said very little,
but shouldered their packs, and marched off^, I
following them. We had not gone far when the
men put down their packs by a brook, and stood
talking together; their faces indicated trouble,
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and I thought to myself, " Now it is really
coming." I took little notice of them, however,
and pretended to be examining some rocks, and
presently pretending that I was deeply inter-
ested, I climbed up on one, which kept me well
out of the way of their knives. The men stood
and watched me for awhile, and then the chief
came to the rock, and looking up at me said:
" We have been considering. You have given
one of us a shirt, and that is good ; and you
have given one of us a coat, and that is very
good; but now the three other boys are so dis-
couraged they can't get over this high moun-
tain unless you take out your money and give
them each another dollar."
I replied that I was sorry, but I had no
money; that the trader had paid them for me,
as they knew, and then I went on examining the
rock, I am sure not with great attention, except
in appearance, because I have never been able to
remember what kind of rock it was.
" We can't go on unless we see the money."
" Very well," I replied, " stay here. I have
no money."
Then the chief went back to the men, and
they talked awhile longer. Then he came back
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
again and said : " But you must have money.
All Americans have money; only Indians are
poor. The boys can't go on unless you show
them your money and give them each another
dollar."
" I have money," I said, " but not here ; I
must go to bring it, and you must take good
care of me when I come back, because I will have
a thousand dollars with me ; more than you ever
saw before, and I will sleep at your house so
that you can take good care of me."
He opened his eyes and went back, and they
talked some more. Then he came again, and
was a little more threatening in his appearance:
" We know you have got money," he said, " and
we want to see it, and the boys won't go on."
" I have only a little," I said, showing a few
loose dollars that I carried in my pocket ; " but
I will do this. When we get to the settlements,
let the people know that I have very little
money, and that they must take me on cheap;
then, if I have any money left, I will give each
of the boys another dollar." He went back,
and in a few moments came to me again and
said : "It is this way : we are thinking of the
drink you promised us ; perhaps we can go on.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
Will you surely give it to us ? " and there was
an anxious look in his face.
" Yes," I said, " you can depend on it."
"All we want.?"
" Yes, all you want."
" But we can drink a lot."
" Never mind, go on ; you shall have it."
" Senor," said the chief, " that will cost a
lot of money. You have got money; we want
to see it," and an ugly look came in his face,
while the men crowded up to the rock. They
certainly had me, but they saw that my pistol
was ready, and I sat there facing them. Sud-
denly a thought came to me, and I said, hastily,
" I have credit. I can get all the things I want ;
you shall have the rum, even though I have no
money here to pay for it." Then I showed the
chief my wallet, with passport, and some docu-
ments with big seals on them. He looked at
it and said: "This credit?"
" Yes, but only when I sign the bill."
They traded on credit themselves, and after
a moment the chief said : " He hasn't any
money ; let's go on."
" But he has lots of things," said one of the
young men, looking at the packs.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
I heard nothing more, and presently they
took up their packs and marched on.
I had no more trouble with them for two
or three days, but one morning we came to a
Piyu village, and the men said that they must
stop there for the night. I protested, and said
I would not, that they must go on ; but it was
of no use, and my men went off with the Piyu
men, and all talked together at the edge of
the jungle.
I felt miserably. My men were evidently
unwilling to kill me themselves, because they
feared my friend the trader; but if the Piyu
men killed me, that was a different thing.
The wife of the chief in that village was part
Spanish, and I began to talk to her, and pres-
ently asked if I was to be her guest. She re-
plied that she supposed so.
" But will I be safe here to-night.? " She
made no answer.
" Had I better go on to the settlements ? "
" Yes," she said, " you had better go on ;
there is plenty of time."
" But the men won't go."
" Make them," she said.
I went out, and angrily commanded the men
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
to go on, but they would not even answer me.
Here was fresh trouble — to get all through the
wilderness on my wits and then to be killed by
these miserable Piyu men. I was turning over
various plans, and presently went back to the
house and saw the woman again, and said to her,
" The men won't go. Will I be safe here to-
night? "
She made no answer.
" Am I your guest .^^ "
" Yes."
" And will any harm come to a guest in your
house? "
She looked away.
" A guest, and not safe in your house ? " I
protested.
She looked at me and then at my pistol.
" Can you shoot? " she asked. " Then do this:
hang your hammock across that corner; I will
bring my mats and sleep just outside it. If I
touch your foot in the night, be ready and shoot
quickly."
We fixed the things, and then she said:
" Now, you will be safe." She was evidently
a determined woman. The Piyu chief objected
to the arrangements, but that is all the good
88 .
AND ACROSS PANAMA
it did him, and when night came I was soon
asleep, and had a thoroughly good night's rest.
Next morning, grateful to my good hostess, I
started on and reached Coulme, the chief city of
the civilized Piyu Indians, about three in the
afternoon.
It was a great relief. I had now reached the
settlements and was on the main road to the
capital, which I could reasonably hope to reach
in three or four days. At Coulme the civilized
Piyu men did everything for me, so soon as
they found I had not come from an infected
district, and all they had was at my disposition.
The chief of their village called a council, and
he and the alcalde examined my papers, and,
with all the men of the place crowding about,
made polite speeches of welcome.
My men said I had no money as they had
promised, and the alcalde asked me about it;
but I said I had plenty, and a tired look came
over the faces of my guides. They could not
get any rum, because there was none to be had,
but I was safe now, and did not care. I gave
them each the extra dollar; they seemed to be
content, and that was the last I ever saw of
them. I have travelled very far since then,
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
but I have never had guides that were so diffi-
cult to manage.
Urged by the necessity of my mission, I asked
the Piyu Indians to send me on at once, though
I would have gladly remained a few days with
them. Two sturdy little men shouldered all
my things, and in a short time delivered me
safely to the regular authorities at the nearest
Spanish town. Here arrangements were made
for sending me to the capital. Nothing had
been heard of my opponent, and I began to feel
secure.
Without waiting for breakfast, I started on
next morning, riding a stout mule, a young
Spanish-American peon for my attendant, and
every prospect of reaching the end of my jour-
ney without further trouble. I had expected
to buy something to eat on the road, but had
not succeeded very well, which was inconvenient.
About noon we came to a broad, circular de-
pression in the valley, surrounded by green
grass-grown hills that looked like great waves
just ready to break and sweep all before them;
beyond were the mountains, looming up with
startling effect, distant, yet seeming to hang,
as it were, just over those picturesque green
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
hills, like clouds hanging over the waves of the
ocean. As we crossed this strange place, I
noticed what appeared to be fine mushrooms
growing abundantly, and asked my guide what
they were.
" Fruit of the earth," he replied.
"Are they good to eat.?" I asked, feeling
decidedly hungry.
" Yes," he said, after a moment's hesitation,
and then added, eagerly, " Shall I get some for
you?"
" Yes, I would like to try them."
He brought two almost as large as dessert
plates, and then rode on with one in his hand.
By all appearances they were the finest of mush-
rooms. I tasted cautiously, and then ate one
and part of another; but just then I noticed
that my man was not eating his, and I thought
to myself, " Now you have been a fool." But
on waiting a moment, and not feeling any ill
effects except a sort of acid coppery taste in
the mouth, I did not take any action, and rode
on, my man watching me intently. It was an
extremely hot day, and some hours later, at
about three p. m., while riding across a treeless
plain, my stomach suddenly felt as if some one
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
had stuck a knife into it, and then had poured
hot oil in after the knife. I struggled to the
ground, and by tickling the palate caused a
period of vomiting, and relieved my stomach
of a quantity of hard yellow matter, though
I had eaten very little. For a moment or two
I felt better, and then the pains came on again,
and the burning, which now extended all up
my throat and to my nose and mouth, was almost
unendurable. I threw myself down in the shade
and asked my man to get me water. He looked
at me indifferently and said, " There is none
nearer than a mile, and I have nothing to carry
it in."
The pain increased, and still he sat watching,
making no effort to help me. Now the burning
had extended to all my body, my mouth seemed
perfectly dry, and a sort of delirium was ever
increasing in my brain, till, almost beside myself
with pain, I got on my feet, clutched the mane
of my mule, and guided him on, seeking the
river, though it was some distance before me.
I had taken only a few steps when further prog-
ress became impossible; I could scarcely see,
and had lost all control over my legs. If any-
thing was to be done, it must be quickly. I
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
had all sorts of remedies for fevers and sick-
ness, but had never thought of being poisoned.
Suddenly I remembered a can of vaseline in my
saddle-bags. I got it out I don't know how;
the day was so hot it had turned to oil, but any-
thing to drink would have been acceptable, and
so I swallowed a quantity of the liquid vaseline.
I will never forget the sensation of that swallow-
ing ; it seemed to touch every point in my burn-
ing throat and stomach, and to set them at rest.
I saw again, and my first thought was for water.
By keeping one hand on my mule I staggered
on, followed by my indifferent peon, and just
as the pains were coming on again I reached
the river and fell to drinking water, and when
I could drink no more I thrust my arms deep
into the cool stream, and the very pores of the
skin seemed to lick up the water. At intervals
I would drink all I could, stopping only when it
was physically impossible to take more; yet in
two or three minutes I would be drinking again
as eagerly as ever. Where the water went to
I have no idea; it seems as though the human
body could not hold the amount I drank.
After a time there came a lull in the pain,
and the desire for water left me, and then there
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
was a delicious sensation of languor and rest
all over my body. I lay there exhausted, and
feeling a numbness and chill come over me, I
believed that I was dying, and did not care.
Then thoughts of my defeated mission, the
triumph of my rival, the grief at my home far
awa}^ in the North ; all came vividly to my mind,
and I determined that I would not die. I stag-
gered to my feet, mounted after several attempts
and started on a wild ride for help to the little
city of El Real, about three miles away. As
I went I made the mule jounce and shake me
on the saddle, which seemed to keep up the circu-
lation. As I drew near the city I got a little
boy, whom I overtook, to run ahead and buy
some raw eggs. Presently he met me with them,
and the whites of these gave considerable relief.
Then I got a big gourd of water; there must
have been about three quarts. It had a sweet-
ish taste, but I drank it all, and in an instant
I was vomiting with almost incredible violence,
and was nearly suffocated by it. I relieved my-
self of more of the hard yellow matter and
quantities of water, and was thoroughly sat-
isfied that there was nothing more in my stom-
ach. My servant now became all attention.
AND ACROSS PANAMA
took me to a good house and did for me every-
thing that was possible. After resting a short
time I took some rum and black coffee, went to
bed and fell into a sort of stupor, in which I
knew nothing, but was dimly conscious that at
intervals all through the night my man came
and rubbed my arms and legs vigorously.
The next morning I was better, and rode on
to Jutigalpa, the capital of the Department of
Olancho, the point toward which I had been
struggling so long.
I inquired anxiously for my rival; nothing
had been heard of him. I had arrived first.
Without losing any time, I went to the gov-
ernment offices and registered my titles, and
then drew a long breath. My rival could come
as soon as he wished; the registry was com-
plete.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER XI.
PERPLEXITIES AND SPANISH - AMERICAN HOSPI-
TALITY
Next day my first care was to arrange for
an expedition down the river with sufficient
equipment to relieve my companions and bring
up all our things. I went to a merchant on
whom I had letters of credit, to be sure that
funds were available, and, on being assured
that money was there at my disposal, felt that
I could safely send after my companions, and
started the expedition at once. Then I rented
a small house, hotels being unknown in Juti-
galpa, and made myself comfortable.
I was far from the beaten track in a quaint
old Spanish-American city, the principal place
in the great interior valley of the Olancho; a
region shut in by lofty mountain ranges, iso-
lated, almost, from the outer world. Shortly
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I found myself in need of more money, having
reduced my funds to two dollars and fifty cents,
and went to the merchant on whom my letters
of credit were drawn.
He was quite ready to supply funds, but when
I presented a draft, he said : " There is some
mistake here, my instructions are that your
superintendent must countersign all drafts."
" No," I said, " I deposited the n. >ney per-
sonally, and the credit is secured against my
own deposit." Explanations were of no avail,
however, some mistake had 'been made ; I could
have no money, was alone in a strange city with
only two dollars and fifty cents between myself
and starvation, the mail comunications uncer-
tain, and no possibility that a letter could reach
New York under six weeks. Here was a diffi-
culty, and, to make matters more complicated, a
polite constable came that afternoon to arrest
me because of some matters relating to unpaid
debts contracted some years earlier by my super-
intendent. The prospect was not altogether
charming, but, remembering that if I were ar-
rested they would at least have to feed me, a
consideration I was not in a position to despise^
I submitted willingly; and then the constable
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
decided that he would not arrest me, went his
way, and left me to wonder why he had come
and what I should do. Fortunately, I had paid
for my house in advance, so I was sure of a place
in which to sleep, and, as bananas were three for
a cent, I would not starve; but the diet was
not the most exhilarating. I lived on bananas
for three days, kept my own counsel and waited.
I was an object of curiosity, the boys of the
town wandered in and out of my house at will,
and all the fruit venders came to offer me
bananas. The third day, in the afternoon, I
was delighted to receive a visit from a gentle-
man who spoke perfect English, and who in-
quired minutely about my affairs.
With many apologies he assured me that I
was most welcome to their city, and that he
hoped I understood their difficulty in accepting
drafts from strangers, in fact, almost every
American who had visited their city had sold
drafts which on being presented had proved
worthless ; and so, with many profuse apologies,
he protested it was not lack of hospitality, but
only that they had lost so frequently. I assured
him I understood, and did not expect any one
to take an unsecured draft. Still he protested,
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AND ACROSS, PANAMA
apologizing and regretting my three days' in-
convenience, and finally ended by saying that
he had been selling cattle, and, having a bal-
ance of three thousand dollars on hand, begged
that I would accept it until my funds arrived,
and hoped that I would excuse his neglect in
not offering sooner. This was indeed Spanish
hospitality, and I told him if he would lend
me enough money to cable home, my funds
would arrive immediately. We went to the
telegraph office without delay, and next morn-
ing a reply came, bringing ample funds, my
credit was established, and every door was
opened wide for me.
To become a part of the daily life in a re-
mote Spanish-American city was a charming
experience, and I have the most pleasant recol-
lections of my brief visit to Jutigalpa ; so pleas-
ant indeed that I am often planning to return.
There is a legend of an enchantment pertaining
to a group of rocks overhanging a deep pool
in the Olancho River, and it is related that who-
ever dives from those rocks to the deep, clear
water below them must return to Olancho, and
die there; though the venturesome person who
dares the enchantment may wander far over the
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face of the earth, and return to and leave the
valley many times, yet in the end he will die
in Olancho. Each morning a goodly company
of men and boys would visit the deep pool for
a bath; it was the regular morning exercise,
and I rarely failed to find a place in the party.
I am not a believer in charms, and have taken
a header from that enchanted ledge of rocks
many times. Since then I have wandered very
far, yet I have never found a place so beautiful
as the valley of the Olancho, and some day I
hope to return to it once again.
After our bath we would go back to the city
for breakfast, and then the morning's work
would be taken up, and by noon-time much
would have been accomplished. Then came the
dreamy rest through the heat of the day, when
one simply sat at ease and did not care even to
think. Usually some friends would come to my
house, and pleasant hours were spent smoking,
idling, and discussing affairs of local interest;
then in the afternoon work again, and at even-
ing a walk about the city, visiting friends or
stopping to talk with young ladies seated in
their low, open, but heavily guarded windows.
One beautiful moonlight night, as I strolled
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about alone, I passed the shop of a humble
shoemaker, who was seated before his door.
As I passed he politely invited me to a seat;
such an invitation did seem a little strange from
my shoemaker, yet, not wishing to appear rude,
I accepted his invitation, and found him well
informed about the valley and its history. Pres-
ently the Governor of Olancho came passing by,
and the shoemaker invited him to a seat, which
he accepted at once; then a Senator for the
district, and one of the richest men in the city,
came that way, and he, too, took a seat at the
shoemaker's door. Surely we were a mixed
company, yet no differences were made; a shoe-
maker, a stranger who had come among them,
one of the city's richest men, and the Governor
of the Province, all on a pleasant footing to-
gether, without any pretension; yet the shoe-
maker never failed in due respect, nor was there
anything in his manner from which one might
infer that he did not think himself good enough
to pay his respects where respect was due.
Among such surroundings the days went
pleasantly, and my brief rest was thoroughly
enjoyed. It was in the month of December, the
time of festivities, and there were bull-fights,
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parades, and on Christmas Eve dances and fam-
ily reunions ; to all of which I was invited,
and I have never had the pleasure of more
kindly entertainment. The principal reunion
was given by Governor Zalaya's family, and
there all the best people of the city were gath-
ered together. Etiquette was somewhat differ-
ent from our customs. The company was in-
vited at eight o'clock in the evening, and it was
polite to arrive on the minute. Guests did not
go directly to the house, but as the hour ap-
proached stood near, and when the great clock
in the church chimed eight we all filed in to-
gether, and were received by our host and host-
ess ; then the gentlemen went to one room, the
ladies to another, and the sounds of pleasant
conversation filled the house. Everywhere were
preparations for merrymaking; at the doors
and in the yard servants, peons, and estate
tenants were gathered, enjoying themselves at
the expense of their masters, and a great com-
pany they all made; but within the house were
only the guests, not so very many, merely the
family and their most particular friends. A
good time, a period of thorough enjoyment,
has an effect on one's spirits, and all this scene
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was most exhilarating. After we had talked
together for awhile, a lively polka was started,
and the ladies came from their room in single
file and stood with their backs to the wall in
the main saloon, and then the men filed out
of their room and stood looking on. The young
ladies were pretty, modest, and becomingly
dressed; some of the jewels were truly magnifi-
cent. I was told later that many of them had
been handed down from generation to genera-
tion since the days of the Spanish conquest.
A friend whispered to me that I should not
seek a partner at once, that there were more men
than ladies, and it would be polite for the men
to give place to each other; so after a moment
of forbearance, and mutual urgings among the
gentlemen, a dance was arranged, and to meas-
ured music now grown slower we danced about
the great saloon, while the servants, peons, and
their friends stood looking in at the door. I
was dancing with a charming little Sefiorita, but
found myself no match among my Spanish-
American friends, who were going through a
series of graceful figures and a great variety
of steps, a sort of quadrille-polka and stately
ceremony combined. I could take no part in
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this, so devoted myself to my partner, and
found the dance very pleasant. When it was
over, I took her to a comfortable seat in the
great saloon, and, drawing a smaller chair to
her side, sat in it myself, expecting a pleasant
conversation till the next dance; but she sim-
ply gave me an appealing look, and said noth-
ing. Then I noticed my hostess standing near
the ladies' room as if petrified with dismay,
a look of horror on her face, while all the young
ladies were staring as if their eyes would pop
out.
There was an instant of bewildered looks, then
the Senorita's Duenna came anxiously to the
rescue, and hurried her to safety in the ladies'
room, but as she went she looked back at me
with a merry laugh, and I knew the Senorita had
enjoyed the adventure. Then some of the men
told me that I had committed the greatest in-
decorum, that no man could sit by a young
lady under any circumstances. That I was a
stranger was sufficient explanation, and when I
told my hostess of our customs at home during
a dance, she was deeply interested, and I was
entirely forgiven.
We danced till midnight and then went to
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mass, a beautiful custom and ceremony; the
church was filled to overflowing, all the dancers
and merrymakers in the city having come, re-
membering their religious duties as the first act
of Christmas morning. Then each party went
again to their festivities, and we who were the
Governor's guests returned to a bountiful sup-
per, where there were many different kinds of
meats and rich dishes, but very little in the way
of sweets. The ladies all sat at a long table, and
the men attended them, standing respectfully
behind their chairs ; then when the ladies had
finished, they went back to their room, and the
men had supper. After this, dancing was con-
tinued till sunrise, the men going about the city,
visiting other dances to which they had been
invited, and returning to the Governor's dance
at pleasure, for after supper everything became
quite informal. It was broad daylight when
we went home, all agreeing that we had enjoyed
a most delightful entertainment; for myself,
I have never since attended a dance where thor-
ough enjoyment, friendship, and courtesy were
so charmingly blended.
I was fortunate to have been in Jutigalpa
during Christmas week, and shall always re-
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member it as one of the most pleasant experi-
ences in all my travels, yet I was not sorry when
the festivities were over and I could take up
my work again.
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CHAPTER XII.
EXAMINING A MINE UNDER DIFFICULTIES
My first effort was to seek the mines that
I had come so far to investigate, and a few
days later I left the hospitable city of Juti-
galpa, and with a comfortable outfit made my
way up the Olancho valley to the valley of Lapa-
guera, — a place beautiful almost beyond de-
scription. The broad valley, level like a prairie,
covered with green grass, extended east and
west almost as far as the eye could reach ; thou-
sands of cattle were quietly feeding, a few trees
in groups were seen at places, and on either side,
rising abruptly, were great ranges of moun-
tains.
Our trail led over the mountains to the north,
and we were presently making our way among
groves of tall pine-trees, where from the
branches gigantic festoons of gray moss hung
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drooping. As we began to climb the moun-
tains one of our mules commenced a series of
unreasonable capers. She was a strong young
animal, and evidently preferred the green valley
of the Lapaguera to the lonely mountainsides,
and she now apparently proposed to rove at her
fancy. Sometimes her fancy took her along
the high places above the road, sometimes she
went down below it, then she seemed to have lost
something, and acted as though she expected to
find it in the woods, but she had decided objec-
tions to walking on the road, and so gave the
peons a great deal of trouble. Finally there
came to one a brilliant thought. I had a steady
old horse, and they caught the ambitious mule
and tied her securely to my horse's tail; it
wasn't considerate to the horse, but it did fix
the mule. She couldn't stop conveniently, and
she couldn't get past the horse, neither could
she wander up to the hilltops or climb down
among the gulleys without taking the horse
along, too, but that was inconvenient. For a
time all went well, but after awhile we came to
a place where the road went down between
rather steep banks till it reached a stream of
considerable volume. My horse went down the
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trail in a resigned sort of way, but the mule
started along the bank and wouldn't come into
the trail; the result was that presently she
could go no further, and then came a tug of
war, to see whether the horse in the gully could
pull the mule down from the high bank or
whether the mule could pull the horse's tail out.
I scrambled from the saddle as fast as possible,
and then the animals seemed to come to an
understanding; the horse backed up as far as
he could, and the mule braced her fore feet and
hung her head over the bank as far as possible,
and so they stood. Presently the peons came
and untied them, and I declined to have them
done up again; and so for the rest of the way
that mule followed its own sweet will, " and a
' mule's ' will is the wind's will," and the
thoughts of a mule are long, long thoughts,
incomprehensibly long.
The trail led on over green rolling moun-
tain ridges and down the little level valleys.
and after two days' riding I reached a village
called La Union, a beautiful place at the head
of a valley of low hills between mountain ranges.
Next morning I made an early start for the
mines. I had made a boasting agreement in
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New York that I would examine every portion
of the property; reports stated that fabulous
wealth lay exposed along a precipice where a
stream had cut a deep gorge through the moun-
tains. I found the place just as described,
except that there was very little mineral, yet
enough to make me anxious to see all the preci-
pice.
I went to the upper part of the gorge, where
a good view could be had down the river, but
could see no signs of any mineral deposits.
Then I said to my guide that we would go on
down the river, but he told me it was impossible,
that no person had ever been down the gorge,
nor could they possibly go. However, we went
on as far as we could, and presently came to a
place where the river cut its way through solid
walls of rock. I then proposed to go around
to the other side and come up the gorge, but
my guide said that was equally impossible, and
that at this place there were about two miles of
rock which no man or animal could pass. I
quoted the description of the mine, at which the
guide laughed, and told me that such a report
was the exaggeration of an impossibility. I
had no thought of giving up, however, and
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asked the guide if I could not swim down the
river, at which he looked at me in astonishment.
" Impossible ; the place is full of snakes, and
there must be a big waterfall in there, because
the river is much lower on the other side of the
mountain."
I wasn't going home without seeing every
inch of that gorge ; the precipice had been noted
in a former report and I proposed to examine it.
So I threw off my clothes, telling my guide I
intended to take a bath. I found the water cool
and pleasant, and presently let the current
carry me slowly down, then swam to one side
and came back again, as if I meant nothing,
fearing that the guide might restrain me by
force, for by this time he, too, had entered the
water. Then I let the current take me down
again. This time I went a little further, and
when well beyond his reach, while he shouted
to recall me, I let the current carry me into the
gorge, then around a bend, and I was alone,
rocks and water all about me, and a line of
blue sky overhead. I was frightened, but hav-
ing started, I meant to keep on.
The river was low, and for a time I floated
lazily along, watching out for signs of exposed
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mineral deposits ; but there was nothing, only
dark rocks of even texture. Presently I no-
ticed that the current was becoming swifter, and
so I caught hold of a convenient ledge, and held
myself back to see what was ahead of me.
There were some rapids, a little cascade, and
further on more rapids, and I floated carefully
down to them, keeping well against the rocks.
There was not much difficulty about getting
over the cascade, just a tumble into a deep basin
of water, where I was washed up to one side
and found a convenient seat on a gravel bed
under a rock, where I stopped to rest and con-
sider. The rapids were a little threatening, but
I decided to try them, and soon had the pleasure
of finding that, though the water was rough,
it was deep and easy to swim in, with plenty of
eddies along the sides, where I could avoid the
heaviest currents. Going on down, I came to
a place where the rocks of the precipice sud-
denly changed, and above the dark, intrusive
rocks a contact with sedimentary types could
be distinctly seen; but there were no signs of
mineral, and I floated on down, and presently
came to the end of the gorge, about a mile or
more from the place where I had left my clothes.
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I rested for a time, and then started to swim
back, but it was fatiguing work, and presently
the current became too strong for me. Here
was a predicament; it was some miles around
the base of the mountain to where I left my
clothes ; to walk that distance naked in all the
burning sun could not be even thought of, and
to clamber along the rocks where, because of the
dry season, hundreds of snakes had gathered,
seemed madness. I was well perplexed as to
what I should do, and not a little frightened.
After considering, I determined to climb along
the rocks, and started out on a really perilous
journey. I saw snakes from time to time, but
these were accommodating, and got out of the
way, though I was constantly in dread of the
next step. Scorpions and black tarantulas were
numerous, and as I climbed along the cliffs
among the black rocks I saw poisonous snakes
and dreaded insects ; with deep shadows about me
and here and there a radiant beam of sunlight,
I was constantly reminded of Dore's illustra-
tions of the Inferno. Weird and dangerous
as it was, I soon became accustomed to it all,
and then deeply interested in the strange, wild
beauty of my surroundings. When I came to
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the place where I had noted the sedimentary
rocks, I climbed up to them, selected a few small
specimens to take back with me, and then tying
them in a leaf, with a bit of inner bark from
a convenient trumpet-tree, I started on again,
carrying the little package with my teeth. So
I made my way on, swimming at times and at
others climbing along steep rocks. A fall, the
sting of a poisonous insect or snake bite would
probably be fatal, and I was thoroughly tired
out with excitement, as well as from the exertion,
when I finally got over the little cascade, forced
my way along the side of the swift water above
it, and came to the open river with an easy swim
ahead of me to reach my clothes. One can rest
beautifull}' in the water, and by the time I
reached my guide I was feeling quite rested
again. A number of people had gathered there,
all supposing I was dead, and they hardly knew
what to say when I told them where I had been,
and I think that none of them believed me. A
searching party had gone around the mountain
to look for my body, and at the little town of
La Union work had been commenced on my
coffin, — a matter of some concern to me because
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I had to pay for it, and coffins are expensive
in that country.
After this I set out on my way, returning
to Jutigalpa, and on the road had an experience
with eniguas, a species of small flea. Probably
all who travel in Spanish America will suffer
to some extent from these annoying insects.
The female fastens herself to any protected
place on one's skin, particularly under the toe
nails; and then working her way through the
outer skin, forms a little nest and lays a multi-
tude of eggs; these increase in size, and grad-
ually develop till numerous little grubs are
formed, which immediately begin to feed on the
living flesh of the person who is so unfortunate
as to harbour them. Then serious results may
be expected, the pain is most severe, and not
infrequently the loss of one's feet follows, or,
perhaps, blood-poisoning sets in, to end in a
most miserable death. This, however, is only
among those who, from ignorance or other
cause, allow the eniguas's eggs to remain under
the skin till they develop the living grubs. For-
tunately, some days pass before the grubs de-
velop, while an intense itching gives early warn-
ing that something is wrong, and to remove
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the eggs is a very simple matter; usually after
removing them an unpleasant sore is left, re-
quiring some days to heal. I found a number
of sores on my feet looking like little boils with
a black spot in the centre of each. I thought
they were nothing but boils, and was surprised
to find a tough skin covering them, but by prick-
ing this open I cleaned them out rather indiffer-
ently, and, finding the pain relieved, thought no
more about it. Later my feet began to pain
again, presently swelling set in, till one morning
I could not put on my shoes, and then I became
rather alarmed.
I called one of the natives and learned that
eniguas had g,ttacked my feet, that I had al-
lowed some of the eggs to hatch, and that now
the grubs were eating into the living flesh, which
might cause the loss of both my feet. This was
serious, and the remedy they proposed was a
thing that the bravest might shrink from. I
was told that the only way to save my feet was
to let the natives strap me down on a table so that
I could not move, while they scraped the sores
with bits of glass till they had taken out all
the grubs, and they might be obliged to even
scrape the bones.
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I consented, of course, but the preparations
sent cold perspiration trickling down my back.
Fortunately, I was spared the suffering; an old
medicine-woman happened to be in camp, who
said that if I would give her a dollar she would
cure my feet in a day without cutting them.
A dollar was no consideration, and she had it
at once, though I must confess I doubted her.
She seemed to know just what she was about,
and went at once to the woods to get some herbs.
Within an hour she was back again, carrying a
lot of bruised leaves crushed together in one
hand. These she roasted over the fire and
squeezed a black liquor out of them, which she
dropped into the sores on my feet. It seemed
as though she was using liquid fire, but the
sting was only for an instant; then as soon as
the smarting had passed, the pain in my feet
became easier. I had a number of other sores
on my feet and legs which she treated, and then
told me that all would be well in the morning.
They certainly were feeling much better, and
I was decidedly relieved. She would not take
any more money, but ordered me to keep quiet
and she would come back to see me next day.
When morning came, I was surpised to find
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that my feet were perfectly cool and natural,
that all the swelling had gone down, and that
the sores were beginning to heal.
They never gave me any more trouble, and
when the medicine-woman came back I deter-
mined to learn her secret. It was hard work,
and money would not buy it; but finally she
consented to tell me because I assured her it
would be useful to a great many people.
I found that what she had used was a common
weed, called locally Soto Caballo, which grows
all over Olancho in Honduras ; yet I have never
met with it in any other country.
I took samples, but, when later I showed them
to doctors and manufacturing chemists, I was
met with a smile of incredulity for my story,
and informed that the profession was abun-
dantly supplied with antiseptics.
After my feet were better, I went on again,
and, reaching Jutigalpa, found that my late
companions were determined to continue in their
chase after delusive hopes, and believing that I
had seen enough of their affairs and aspirations,
separated myself from them, and turned my
attention to other affairs. I had about deter-
mined to leave Honduras when I received an
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offer from a party of " capitalists," who had
come to the country for the purpose of develop-
ing mining interests, and now wanted me to or-
ganize part of their working force. I was
reluctant to leave Honduras so soon, and con-
sidering their offer advantageous both for my-
self and my principals, I accepted and went dili-
gently to work on their affairs.
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CHAPTER XIII.
OVEE THE MOUNTAINS ON A RACE AGAINST TIME
I SOON found that for reckless extravagance
and almost idiotic proceedings this outfit was
beyond anything I had ever known. One morn-
ing responsibility for transactions of which I
knew nothing, and for money which I had never
seen, were charged up against my department,
and I promptly offered my resignation, feeling
well assured that I had seen quite enough of those
people. Then there was a row, and finally they
complained that my course was dishonourable;
that they had spent money to bring me to their
camp, and that they had thought I was to be
depended on. This touched me in a tender spot,
and I agreed to be at their service until they
were sufficiently compensated for expenses in-
curred in my behalf, but I refused absolutely
to handle any money for them.
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One Sunday morning, shortly after our dis-
agreement, the manager and the capitalists who
had come out with him were in a state of excite-
ment; perhaps they were tired of telling each
other how great they were, or perhaps they had
become angry as to their respective greatness;
from where I was I could not tell. Presently
one of the servants came hurrying over to me,
and asked that I should go immediately to the
manager. I went, and was told that he might
be able to use me in a little matter that had
come up. I made no answer, and presently
learned that some important papers had been
entirely neglected, and that unless by some
means or other these papers could be deposited
in the bank at Tagucigalpa, the capital, before
sunrise Tuesday morning, serious loss would re-
sult, and the proposition was that I should go
and deposit the papers on time, a difficult under-
taking. I would have to reach Tagucigalpa
from the lower Olancho valley before Tuesday
morning, over a rough trail of one hundred and
twenty miles across two mountain ranges — a
trip that usually took from five to seven days.
After considering a moment, I said : " If you
give me a mule that can do the work, I can sit
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on its back till we arrive; it is only a question
of long hours in the saddle, and the endurance
of the mule."
I was assured of a good mule, and knowing
that there were several high-priced animals at
camp well able to do the work, I made hurried
preparations, anticipating a novel and perhaps
pleasant experience. My preparations were
soon made; a pair of saddle-bags, a change of
underclothing, an ounce of quinine, a two-ounce
package of condensed soup — that was all.
I hurried over to the offices, where we all
waited anxiously for the mule. While waiting
I was told that if I succeeded in depositing the
papers on time my associates would be amply
compensated for having brought me to their
camp. About nine o'clock the manager's serv-
ant came, bringing a mule — a little animal
not half grown, and which had never been ridden
before. The men employed about the mines had
come to see me start, and when the manager said,
proudly : " Now, there is as fine an animal
as you could want; it will take you easily in
two days," the whole crowd began to laugh
derisively, which made him furious.
I said to the capitalist : " Mr. Blank, that
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mule can never take me in two days ; you must
give me one of the better animals."
The manager protested angrily, and the cap-
italist, now thoroughly anxious, said : " Oh, go,
go on. The manager is an expert and knows his
business; he says the animal can take you;
don't object so much, but do something for us."
I said : " Mr. Blank, that mule can never
cross the first range of mountains, but I will get
your papers in the bank on time."
Then I mounted the little animal, and had
considerable difficulty in getting it to start, but
finally it did go, and I was soon out of sight
over the hills.
It was a gallant little mule, and took me
fifteen miles in three hours, and then it broke
down, and not another step could I get out of
it. I had expected one day's work from it, and
the situation was serious.
It looked as though I was stuck, but fortu-
nately some soldiers came along just then, and
I made a bargain with them to have my saddle
carried on to the next place where I hoped to
secure an animal. I left the little mule at a
house near by, and then we started. It was
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an eighteen-mile tramp, but we got in safely
about four o'clock.
I went at once to the Alcalde, and applied
for an animal, but here I was in worse luck:
the city was in " fiesta," and all the men who
were not drunk were trying to become so as fast
as possible. Animals? Was that all I wanted?
I could have all Honduras, but to-morrow.
This would have been too late. Fortunately, I
found two men who were not quite so drunk as
the others, and I offered to pay them five dollars
each if they would walk with me all night and
carry my saddle and other things till I could
find an animal. They readily agreed, and we
started on our hard tramp. Rough work, in-
deed, but I determined to keep on. About mid-
night we came to a little tavern, and my men
were so tired that they begged me to let them
find substitutes, and they would not take any
of the money. I told them I had no objections
to new men, and said that they might make the
best bargain they could and save the difference.
They tried from house to house, but It was of no
use; none would undertake the journey.
Then I said : " I am sorry, but my necessities
require that you carry out your agreement; we
AND ACROSS PANAMA
must go on." They went obediently, the law
and custom of that country compelling them.
At intervals I let them sleep for twenty min-
utes, mounting guard myself, then we would
push on. I was excited, and made the most
fearful exertions. Once we lost the trail, and
went some miles out of our way, but by sunrise
we had crossed the largest range of mountains.
We pushed on, and about 11 a. m. Monday
morning I reached Talanga, hardly able to
stand. I felt sure of success now. I had made
seventy-five miles on foot in nineteen hours, and
I was within twelve leagues of my journey's
end, requiring only an animal that could do an
ordinary day's work. But misfortunes were
everywhere; not an animal could be had, and I
was too exhausted to think of walking further.
However, I felt compelled to do the best I could ;
so I telegraphed to Major Burke, of New Or-
leans, to whom I was consigned, telling him the
condition I was in, and stating that I would
come on as far as I could, and when I gave
out I would lie down across the road, and if I
was not In by midnight to send a courier out
to get the papers, as they must be deposited
before sunrise Tuesday morning.
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Then I prepared to push on. As I was about
to start, a man came and said he owned a horse
which had never been ridden yet, but if I
thought I could ride him I could try.
It was a chance, but I determined to risk it,
and with a good peon at my side started on
again. The horse was a little troublesome at
first, but he took to work naturally, and I made
good progress.
About four o'clock we came to a group of
great orange-trees, loaded down with fruit, and
because of my exhaustion I never had anything
that tasted so good in my life; the fruit was
perfect, and for ten cents I bought more than I
could possibly carry.
Everything went well till I came to a little
place called Cofradia, four leagues from the
capital. I felt that I had almost succeeded when
sudden pains shot through my body, followed
by a violent chill, and then my legs became par-
alyzed. I lost all control over myself, and it
seemed as though my teeth would rattle out
of my head. I managed to get my feet out of
the stirrups, and half fell to the ground, then
I staggered to a house and sank down by the
door.
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As soon as I found my voice, I asked for
some hot water, but was informed that the
women had all gone to a dance, and the men
did not consider it their business to boil water.
I might have died — that was nothing; they
would not touch a woman's work.
Then I asked for rum, which fortunately
they had, and more fortunate still was the tin
of quinine powder in my saddle-bags. I drank
some rum and then tried to take some quinine,
but my hands were shaking so much that I could
not measure it, and I shook out a quantity,
almost as much as my hand could hold. I looked
at it, and then I thought, well, I am dying
anyway, and it may as well be from the quinine
as anything; so, without considering, I took
it all. It must have been nearly a quarter of
an ounce ; after that I drank a little more rum,
then I waited for a moment, and my strength
came back. It seemed to be exactly what I
wanted.
It was then about seven o'clock in the evening,
and I started on at once, but it was cruel work,
and I fell asleep continually on the saddle; and
presently the peon began to walk by my side to
prevent my falling. This continued for a time,
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and finally, about 11 o'clock, I reached the cap-
ital.
I had succeeded; this kept me awake till I
arrived at the hotel and delivered the papers to
Major Burke, who was sitting up, waiting anx-
iously for them.
He opened the package, looked at the letters
and papers, and then said : " Can you tell me
what they mean by this absurdity? I have
attended to all these matters." I tried to
answer, but could not speak, and the major
got me into bed as soon as possible, two men
helping me undress. I was asleep long before
they put me in bed, and I am told that the
best doctor in the capital was called to see me
two or three times, and that he said the only
thing was to let me sleep, though my condi-
tion was very serious. He didn't know about
the quantity of quinine I had taken, and while
I slept this certainly did me good service, and
when I awoke, after sleeping all the next day
and the night following, I was as fresh and
felt as well as when I started.
I said I was ready to go back to camp at
once, but Major Burke told me he proposed
that I should rest for a week at least, and said
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I must amuse myself as I pleased ; or, if I liked,
I could do some light work for him.
I chose to do the work, of course, and saw a
great deal of the major. He was full of enthu-
siasm over the development of his different min-
ing interests, and spoke eagerly of the day when
he would walk in to New Orleans and pay back
certain money which the city officials claimed
from him, though they had no right to it; and
from day to day he worked enthusiastically on.
and I have never known a more considerate em-
ployer or a more thorough business man.
At the end of the week I started on my way
back to camp, taking five days where I had
come in less than two. I expected that now I
would find my associates more reasonable; but
in this I was mistaken ; folly and extravagance
were unrestrained, and after a few weeks I went
away, very glad that my connection with such
an enterprise could be terminated.
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CHAPTER XIV.
A ROUGH JOURNEY TO THE COAST
After this experience, I prepared to leave
Honduras. It was time now to investigate the
rubber forests of Southern Costa Rica and
Northern Panama. At Jutigalpa I tarried a
few days, exchanging visits of farewell with
numerous friends, and then set out for the
coast, hoping to find some means of transporta-
tion to Costa Rica.
On the way to the coast, I came to a place
where all the road had been washed out by
unusual rains, and my only way to go on was
over a little used trail, well known to be rough
and dangerous. I preferred this, however, to
turning back, and gave little heed to tales of
accidents and death told by my guides.
At first the trail was only rough, not danger-
ous, but presently we came to a steep mountain-
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side, where a fall would mean destruction. A
little further on, the trail became so steep that
I determined to walk down and drive the mule
ahead of me; but she would not go, and I had
to mount and ride before she would undertake
it. This was rather a novel ride; the mule
could not take a step, it was so slippery; she
simply set her feet and slid from one bend in
the trail to the next, and then turned carefully,
and slid on down ; it was coasting on mule-back,
interesting, but rather hard on the mule, and
when we reached better ground she was so
frightened that to manage her was difficult.
Further on, the trail became soft, a sticky red
clay, in which the mules sank almost to their
knees, as they struggled on down the mountain.
The trail was very imperfect, only a narrow
strip trodden out by passing animals, and the
first thing I knew my mule was standing on a
small log that had been placed to mend about
twelve to fifteen feet of the track where it had
broken away. Here two or three animals had
been killed, and the mule was hesitating, while
the log moved uncertainly. To turn back or
dismount was impossible; there was nothing to
do but force the animal on over and take the
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chances, so drawing the reins tight and throw-
ing my feet out of the stirrups, that I might
have a better chance if we fell, I forced the
mule across, though it was a good deal like
riding on a tight rope.
By good fortune I got over safely, and when
the frightened peon — my guide — found his
voice, he said, " I should have told you to dis-
mount before you reached it, but if you can
ride like that you had better keep your saddle,
it will be safer for you and for the mule, too."
So we struggled on down, but the dangers were
not over. At a turn where the trail was very
steep, I could see the track made in the tall
grass where two mules had gone rolling down to
destruction. Just at this point my mule seemed
to lose control of herself and began to slip
toward this fatal spot, and there seemed no way
to check her; she tried to pull back, but the
soft mud afforded no foothold, and we were just
slipping over when she braced her forefeet, and
then managed to turn herself, hesitated between
falling and going on for an instant, and then
we headed on down for the next turn.
So it went, and all the while there was a heavy
strain on the crupper of my saddle; finally,
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at a critical moment, it broke, the saddle slipped
forward, and I found myself hanging over
space with nothing but a mule's neck between
me and destruction. My first feeling was to
jump and try to catch the tall grass as I fell;
then I shouted to my peon, who, just a few
feet from me, was frightened into uselessness,
and he simply stood and looked. I kept liaul-
ing on the reins to make the mule keep her head
up ; she was slipping, and I could feel the bank
giving way, as she trampled on it to get a foot-
hold. Far below me I could see a river rushing
along, and it seemed only a matter of an instant,
but here the path was very narrow, and I found
that by reaching back over my head with one
hand I could grasp the roots of the grass above
me, and so soon as the mule was relieved of
my weight she regained the path, and we were
both safe.
The peon repaired the crupper and I rode on
down, but when I got to the bottom of that
mountain the strain and fright had been so
great I was absolutely played out, and had to
rest for an hour before I could sit on my saddle.
I had now reached the low lands again, and
stopped for the night at a group of rude huts.
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I was making a small collection of orcliids, and
saw what I thought a desirable specimen near
the top of a tall tree. I bargained with a bright
little Spanish boy, who agreed to climb after
the orchid and bring it to me for ten cents.
He went up lightly enough, then as he cut the
plant from the tree, it suddenly swarmed with
black insects. The people who were looking on
shouted, " Golgas ! golgas ! " and called to the
boy to come down. He knocked the plant off
first, and then slid rapidly down the slender
tree to the ground, blood dripping from one
hand. As he reached the ground, he said,
proudly, " I got it, and only one bit me." He
had a deep cut in the fleshy part of his hand
below the thumb, which we bound up carefully,
the men explaining to me that the golga is a
big ant capable of inflicting such a deep wound
that a person could be killed by them in a short
time if a number should get under the clothes.
Later, when I began to look over the plants,
one of these fellows ran up my sleeve and started
vigorous work at once. I caught him on the
third bite, and I think his jaws must have been
red-hot, and were developing rapidly to a white
heat by the time I killed him. From my own
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experience I shall always feel pretty well sat-
isfied that a number of these ants could do seri-
ous damage if they all got at it at once.
On the following day the trail took us
through a jungle of giant palms, and, to enjoy
the novel scene undisturbed, I left my pack-
animals and servants, rode on alone for some
distance, and then, letting my mule take her
course, gave myself up to the enjoyment of the
scene. The giant palms of Central America
grow from near the ground like great ferns, and
rise in graceful curves twenty-five to forty feet.
All other vegetation is shut out, and as one
passes on great archways of green open in all
directions, like the aisles of an enormous cathe-
dral, only these have no end, and blend into one
another till they form, in the distance, one solid
wall of green, with the long archways leading
out to it. In the deep shade of such forests
many varieties of ferns and wood flowers grow
in profusion. I rode on, lost in wonder, till,
suddenly, there came a rustling among the ferns,
a moment of silence, a rustling a little before
me ; and then a large animal stepped cautiously
out on the road perhaps one hundred yards or
more ahead of me.
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I could see that it was what the Indians call a
black tiger. It looked at me over its shoulders,
hesitated for a moment, then faced about sud-
denly, took a few steps forward, and squatted
down in the road, its eyes glowing, and its great
tail beating vigorously from side to side. The
Indians say if one meets a black tiger, it is kill
or be killed, and it is said that if one of these
animals appears near an Indian village the peo-
ple will desert their houses, and that the Indians
will never camp for the night where it is sup-
posed the animals are about.
On the other hand, professors of zoology in-
sist that there is no such animal, but as far as
I am concerned I think I saw one. It was squat-
ting in the road just in front of me, had a coal-
black skin, a thin, loose-jointed body, a rather
heavy tail with a tendency to bush toward the
end, a square head, small ears, and large, clear,
yellow eyes. It looked to me more like a pan-
ther than a jaguar, and yet it was too heavy
about the shoulders, neck, and head for a pan-
ther.
Naturally, I wanted that animal, and there
it was, all ready for fight. I drew my pistol,
the only firearm I had with me, and tried to
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drive the mule nearer, but she didn't appear to
like it, and began to act silly. I kept her head
on the animal, which was crouching there jerk-
ing its tail from side to side with savage vehe-
mence ; and from time to time seemed to gather
itself as if for a spring, and then settled back
again. I was just getting near enough to con-
sider risking a shot, and was trying to quiet the
mule, when, suddenly, around the corner my
pack-train appeared on a full run, the gold pans
clattering, the peons swearing, a tumult gen-
erally.
The animal raised its head, looked for an in-
stant, and then with a graceful bound disap-
peared among the ferns and palm-trees. I was
disappointed, but I never did have particular
luck in shooting.
A day or two more and I reached the little
city of Truxillo again, having travelled over
the greater part of Spanish Honduras.
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CHAPTER XV.
HONDURAS TO COSTA RICA VIA NEW ORLEANS
I AT once began inquiring for a means of
transportation to Costa Rica, but, alas, there
was none! The Spanish- American republics,
though neighbours, are isolated from each other
for want of steamships, and in many places
the only route of communication is via the
United States; and there was now nothing for
me to do except take a steamer for New Orleans,
and from there return south to Costa Rica.
In this trip there was little worth recording.
On the way to New Orleans the gulf was so
calm that numerous varieties of marine life
could be seen darting about, or floating idly
as the steamer made its way among them; but
going south again it was rough, and I made
a bitter enemy of the steward on the little
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steamer by becoming uproariously seasick, and
spoiling four breakfasts one morning before I
could retain food comfortably. I have always
contended that the best remedy for seasickness
is to eat, and keep on eating until one gets the
better of it, but it is rough on the steward.
There were no incidents on this voyage, and
after four days we were landed at a well-con-
structed pier at Port Lemon, and I found my-
self surrounded by civilization and progress
worthy of any country.
Costa Rica is so well governed that I found
scarcely an adventure worth recording. It is
more an agricultural than a mining country.
The lands are fertile and well cultivated; there
are numerous mountains, among them several
extinct volcanoes, which add to their interest,
and in the interior there are a number of charm-
ing cities. San Jose, the capital, is a little
metropolis, situated in a beautiful upland val-
ley surrounded by rich coffee estates, and
flanked by high mountains. The air of the
uplands is cool and bracing, and the climate
of San Jose is delightful. The city is scrupu-
lously clean, and, though there are only about
twenty-five thousand inhabitants, it is equal to
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any American city of its size, and superior to
most of them. The people of Costa Rica are
perhaps not as hospitable as in other Spanish-
American countries, but their republic is well
governed, and its resources are under careful
development ; the people know they have done
well, and, indeed, are rather proud of themselves
and their country. As in all well-developed
countries, the opportunities for business enter-
prises are not so good as in the rougher por-
tions of Spanish America, but there is stability
and security, items of considerable importance
when figuring up the advantages of a locality.
Portions of Costa Rica are still inhabited by
Indian tribes, and I was anxious to visit them;
particularly so at this time because the mails
had brought me a commission from the Ameri-
can Museum of Natural History, and I was
anxious to secure a series of specimens ; so it
was with keen interest that I prepared for an
excursion to the southern jungles of Costa
Rica, where I hoped to explore the territory
of the Talamanca Indians. From Port Lemon
I put out to sea in a little sloop crowded most
uncomfortably with negro passengers. There
was scarcely standing-room, but the voyage
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would not be long, so I forced myself to be
patient. Unfortunately the wind went down,
and we were a day and a night on that mis-
erable little boat, at one time tormented by the
hot sun, at another cowering under a beating
tropical rain; yet the negroes were always
cheerful. A negro can adapt himself to any
surroundings, and be happy, provided he does
not have to work. For me the voyage was a
time of sorrows, and I was heartily thankful
when we at last reached a place called Old Har-
bour, and I could place my feet on terra firma
once again. From here I tramped overland a
few miles to the Silsola River, the boundary
between Costa Rica and Panama, and from
there took a canoe, travelling up the river for
two days to a place called Sipurio, where, tired,^
dirty, and rather forlorn-looking, I knocked at
the gate of a mission station maintained by a
company of German Paulist Fathers. For-
tunately one of the fathers was at home, and
I was immediately made welcome, and for the
next few days was one of their household; and
I learned to thoroughly respect the missioners
who were giving up their lives to serve the In-
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dians, doing their own housework, and main-
taining themselves as best they could.
At Sipurio there were two or three rough
houses besides the mission, all built on a small,
open savannah surrounded by dense jungles,
through which a network of streams made their
way to unite and form the Silsola. Not far
away were the mountains where many of the
Indians were living. Their king, I was told,
lived in the low lands, not far from the mis-
sion, and I was most anxious to see him. From
time to time companies of Indians came to see
me, and then went away again, but the king
did not come. After I had made the acquaint-
ance and questionable friendship of a number,
I told them I wanted to see their king and hold
conversation with him, and a day or two later
a tall, fine-looking Indian visited the mission;
this was Antonio, King of the Talamancas,
come himself to bid me welcome to his country.
That he was more than an average man, I
saw at once. His dress was conventional: a
suit of blue serge, stout boots, a clean white
shirt, and a gray felt hat, which he held in
his hand as he stood there gravely. A man
who was born to rule, to his people a law, and
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yet on his face an expression of sadness but not
of dejection; his bearing was that of command.
We were friends at once. All have met with
some whom they understood at a glance, and
whom it would seem had so understood them,
and so it was between myself and the Indian.
Gravely Antonio gave me his hand, and said
he had come to invite me to visit his houses,
and next day would send men and horses.
" But," he said, " ours are not like your houses.
I have been in the cities ; it is better there for
those who are white men, and here in the woods
it is better for us who are Indians." I had
learned not to be eager with the Indians, and
when I had told him about myself and my coun-
try, we sat for a time together in silence. Then
he called his attendant, and, mounting his
horse, went away, riding slowly over a meadow,
and then disappeared in the jungles. What
a grand man, I thought. Yet Antonio, King
of the Talamancas, has a reputation for un-
reasoning deviltry and uncontrolled passions
throughout all Costa Rica.
That day I could do little; preparations
were made for my visit, and then nothing re-
mained but to wait.
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CHAPTER XVI.
THE DEATH DANCE OF THE TALAMANCA INDIANS
When the sun of the next afternoon hung
heavy, and from the jungle long shadows began
reaching over the meadows, three Indians came
riding to the mission. A few words of wel-
come, a little advice from the fathers, who were
somewhat disturbed at my going, and I was
ready. My guides were fine men, but not nearly
so large or so strong as Antonio; perhaps he
was of a more ancient blood, or descended from
those who in centuries past had conquered the
men of the woodlands, and, ruling, had kept
themselves somewhat apart from those who
served; the difference was marked, and must
have had causes other than climate or conditions
of living.
After travelling an hour or -more through the
jungles, we came to a clearing and saw a number
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of huts, and further on a great conical building
like a round tent, but thatched from the ground
to the peak with palm leaves and straw. Here
Antonio was waiting with a grave welcome;
seats were brought for my guides, a hammock
for me. In the house it was twilight ; at the
door the bright rays of the sunset ; above us
the roof was so high it was dark, like a cave ; a
fire burned low at one side of the house, great
earthen jars standing near it; many Indians
were sitting about talking softly or resting in
silence; yet the house was so large I could dis-
tinguish only their forms. A shed protected the
entrance from the rains, and formed an open
veranda where horses were tied, and the Indians
gathered at times, though for the greater part
they sought the deep twilight within their
strange house.
For a time we were silent. Antonio, holding
a staff, his insignia of office, was listening to low,
earnest voices from men grouped about him.
They presently finished, and then, at a sign from
Antonio, women and boys came, passing large
gourds of chicha. The Indians drank eagerly,
but for me I would much have preferred to de-
cline; I knew better, however, and drank about
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a pint or two of the sour stuff, said it was good,
and asked them for more, and it did me not the
least bit of good to wish that I hadn't. We sat
for awhile, then Antonio said we would go to a
dance for the dead which that night would be
most impressive. Horses were ordered, and I
found that my eagerness need not be concealed;
even the King became animated, and expectant
Indians were awaiting a signal that they might
proceed on their way ; rather strange it all
seemed, a funeral, yet so much expectation of
pleasure. While we were waiting, I stopped
to speak to a group of boys who were looking
at me intently. Among them was a lad of some
sixteen years who was taller and better appear-
ing; his face indicated a sensitive nature and
intelligence of a high order. I asked him his
name. He looked surprised, and then replied:
" Me? I am Josecito." This was the heir to the
King, and no prince could have shown greater
pride in his rank. Then immediately all was
forgotten in his eager desire to see the few
things that I carried, and to hear of the great
world beyond the deep jungles; and this boy
would be king, but a ruler of what? Of tribal
legends and of the influence they brought —
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that is all. Now Antonio came and he and his
household were ready, a goodly company, who
conducted me to another large house, where we
arrived at that time in the tropics when, after
sunset, night seems to rise out of the jungles.
Here I found a great number of Indians gath-
ered together. We were welcomed, but most of
the people looked strangely at me, and then
turned to the King with expressions of wonder,
and soon the leading men had gathered about
him, all earnestly talking. Then Antonio, rais-
ing the staff of his office, entered the house, the
other men following. I went in too, for I
wished to see all that was done, and my action
met with approval; a hammock was brought,
in which I sat watching with interest while
Antonio, his principal men gathered around him,
held consultation the same as he had done be-
fore. The King said little, though he listened
with care to those who wished to speak with
him, and then, when all had finished, he raised
his staff, and in a few words gave his decision.
Then some of the men came to me with a wel-
come; the decision had been in my favour, and
I should see all, and, waiting, made myself pa-
tient.
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It was now grown dark, but in the large house
a fire and numerous torches sent a bright, waver-
ing light through the midst of the Indians
and high up above them, till the roof could be
seen through the masses of smoke which, in the
damp air, hung heavily drooping.
Men and boys now came serving out chicha,
great gourds full, giving me more than enough.
Then all sat around laughing and talking while
the night grew about them, and the air became
heavy with dampness. After some time had
passed, a deep-toned drum, a musical, resonant
sound, called for attention; then, to the slow
measured beatings, four men went to the back
of the house and stood shoulder to shoulder,
facing the people and keeping measured time
with their feet. Then two others joined them;
these wore crowns of white feathers and carried
gourd rattles. After a time one other came,
in his hand a small implement made of hard
wood which, on being struck, gave a sharp click-
ing sound; then immediately men and boys
came to the line, each with a drum — or tambor,
in the Indian tongue, a word in a measure ex-
pressive of the sound made when they are beaten
with the palm of one's hand. In line with the
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dancers, I saw Josecito standing expectant, on
his head a crown of white feathers, under the
left arm a tambor; he looked brave and most
strikingly handsome.
When the line had been formed, the men who
first took their places began a weird chant in
low voices, taken up one after the other, and
then in unison chanting together; a sound not
unmusical and something like that of a wind
sighing among many trees and their branches.
Then a tremulous sound rose up with the chant-
ing, as the men with gourd rattles now gave
them a circular motion, then a sharp clicking
came, as the Indian who carried the small
wooden object beat a time on it; with that the
long line of dancers swayed for a moment and
then, in a slow, measured step, began to move
forward and backward, with the tambors stead-
ily beating, the continued tremulous sound of
the rattling gourds, the sharp clicking time-
beat, the drawn-out chant of the singers rising
and falling in rhythmic, monotonous cadence ;
a long line of Indians, impressive because they
were deeply in earnest, parading and chanting
farewell to their dead. In perfect unison the
Indians went through the performance, while
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the fire burned low, and the torches, unattended,
now flickered dimly; but the Indians continued
steadily forward a step ; a pause ; a step ; back-
ward a step, a step; gradually gaining a little
ground forward toward the eastern side of the
house to which the line was now turned, where
high above them, rudely fashioned and made
fast to the thatched side of the house, were three
packages, bound securely with leaves, the bones
of their dead awaiting final interment. A long
time the dance was continued till a place just
under the dead had been reached. Then the
chanting became more subdued, the wailing
notes long drawn out, the tambors, touched
lightly, gave a soft, mournful sound, and the
ratthng fell to a whispering murmur, then the
balancing steps were scarce more than a sway-
ing, till gradually all became still, stood silent
an instant, and then, without anything further,
went quietly back to their various places ; and
in a few moments boys and young men came
bringing gourds full of chicha, while in all
parts of the house subdued voices were heard.
A long interval, during which some fell asleep,
then a dance was formed as before, this time
the King taking the central position, his staff
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in his hand, on his head a crown of white feath-
ers surmounted by long, brilhant plumes. In
this dance the motion was slower, the singing
subdued, but in other respects it was quite the
same as the first.
Now it was late, and when this dance had
been finished I found my eyes heavy; my
thought was to sit up all night, but the chicha,
the smoke, the slow, droning music, brought
sleep to my eyes ; I could not keep awake. The
King came to me and said in a voice of concern:
" What, are you sleeping ? My house would
be better." I roused myself, but presently na-
ture would claim her due, and as most of the
Indians were now sleeping soundly, I gave
up the struggle, and the next thing I knew it
was morning. A chilly gray light and a damp,
clinging fog came in through the door, of
the Indians, some were still sleeping and some
moving about at various duties. The King came
to ask me how I had rested, and to say that
there would be still other dances after the morn-
ing had grown a little. Then we went to a
stream near the house, where we washed and pre-
pared for the day, the King taking charge of
me with a care almost tender; on his face a
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serious, unmoved expression. Then back to the
house, more chicha, and with it gourds of boiled
chocolate, which I was glad to receive, for I
was now well hungry.
A deep red glow began rising over the fog;
the sun would soon come, and the Indians began
to form for a dance which clearly would be
something much more elaborate. As before, the
singers, rattlers, and principal men first took
their places in a row at the back of the house;
then at either end of the row other Indians
placed themselves in line at right angles. Now
the wailing chant was begun, then the tremulous
rattling, and after that the sharp, clicking
sound, and when this commenced three Indians
bearing a light staff between them came with
slow steps and stood back of the singers. On
the staff I noticed three rings tied together and
made of bark rudely plaited, and I fell to won-
dering what they might mean ; then a soft beat-
ing was made on the tambors, and an Indian
came, in his hand a brilliant red feather, its base
wrapped in a green leaf, and he took a place
facing the singers. The Indians holding the
tambors increased the force of their slow, meas-
ured beating, till the whole house was full of the
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deep reverberations, mingled with the weird
chant of the singers, the tremulous rattling,
and the sharp, clicking sound. Then slowly
forward and back, as before, went the line of
singers, musicians, and principal men, but those
at the sides remained still; the Indian bearing
the feather went through the same steps in front
of the singers, moving backward or forward
as they advanced or retreated, and in the same
manner and on the same step the three Indians
bearing the staff came following after. This
movement for a time was continued ; the tam-
bors, beating slowly at first, were now touched
more rapidly, and gradually increased till, with
sudden energy, the men at the sides broke the
lines in which they were standing, and in groups
of four, with shoulder pressed against shoulder,
began a movement with a long step forward,
a step to the side, and another step back, all
in the most perfect order, circling round and
round the ceremonious dancers, who continued
steadily on as before. Faster and faster the
outer dancers beat on their tambors, keeping
time with their steps, not any one faltering, but
in companies swept on around and around, till
the time was set at so rapid a pace that all
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could not keep it; and now each company bent
every effort to run into and break up the party
who danced just before them. A game of rare
skill, the step must never be broken, each group
pressed on to the next, and in turn was beset by
the group following after, while in the centre
the ceremonious dancers, continuing on with
wailing chant, and its accompaniment of weird
sounds, were not once disturbed. This required
real skill from those dancing around them.
Now all was excitement ; the young men forced
the dance to their utmost, the women with praise
or reproach sat eagerly watching. Josecito,
the young prince, was leading one party, and
a better dancer could scarce be imagined. As
the dance continued, one group, then another,
was run down and forced to one side, till, finally,
Josecito with his men, and a group of much
stronger Indians were all who remained, and
it now became a race of endurance. For a time
the honours were even, but Josecito was only
sixteen, those with him nothing but boys ; their
opponents were older and stronger. The
younger party grew tired, faltered, lost the
step, tried to recover, made a bad start, lost
the step once again, and then, sweeping on, the
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older men passed among them, their line was
destroyed, and Josecito, red in the face, ran out
of the house to hide his confusion. The re-
maining group circled round the ceremonious
dancers, going gradually slower, till they
stopped and stood at one side, beating softly
on their tambors. Then the ceremonious dan-
cers turned to the remains of their dead, and
the chant died away in a wailing farewell which
could not be misunderstood. Then, after stand-
ing a moment in silence, all returned to their
places. Josecito looked in at the door, and then
ran away, as if ashamed of his failure. For
a time the Indians all rested, then a new dance
was formed, different again from the others in
that the women prepared to dance with the men.
The singers, musicians, and principal men
stood as they had done before, the chant and
the step were the same, the accompaniment in
no way different; but, as the beating of the
tambors came quicker, the women began to dance
round and round, as the boys had done, except
that they danced hand in hand, while the boys
held their lines by pressing shoulder to shoul-
der, and keeping the most perfect time in their
steps. The women gave little attention to time
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and the step, but they danced with an abandon
of motion which was most attractive. As the
dance progressed, it became much confused, and
was pushed rapidly on to its end; then came
the waiHng farewell, and the Indians returned
to their seats or stood about talking together.
More chicha was served, and then the King
said that, as I had seen all the dances, we would
go to his house and sit for a time, if I wished.
Taking leave was of very small moment, the
same as I had found it among other tribes, and
even the King was not noticed; we simply
walked out of the house ; that was all. Shortly
we arrived at the King's home, and in the deep
shadowy interior sat at ease resting. Then I
said : " Don Antonio, why do you dance for
the dead? I have seen, but I want to know
what it all means." With an expression of real
regret on his face, the King shook his head,
saying : " No, my white visitor, I love you much,
but the dances they are of the Sukias and the
Singers. I, as King, know all, truly, but to
tell or not that belongs only to them. And yet
why should we keep these secrets? I am not a
king; as the government commands, so I do;
our secrets mean little now. For myself I wish
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you to know. A Sukia will come; be patient
and wait." So we waited and the Sukia came,
and when he had talked with the King he said,
gravely, to me : " Why do you want to know
of our dead, you of a far distant country ;
what is it to you.^^ "
I answered, explaining that I was sent by
the American Museum of Natural History, a
great palace as big almost as a mountain, where
records of all the Indians were kept that none
might be lost or forgotten — a record that
should be for them, their children, and all peo-
ple for ever. Then I told of the museum and
the work it had done; this caught their fancy,
and when I had talked a long time and answered
their questions, the King said : " It is good. I
no longer am King; those who command and
send soldiers care not at all, and lest everything
should be forgotten we will tell you. Our word
is, we will tell you ; your word is, you will keep
the record for us, for our children and for all
who may care to know. Were I a king we would
keep for ourselves our remembrances ; to-day
our power is gone; to-morrow we may not be
at all.
" I, Antonio, am King, the oldest son first
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born of the other King's oldest sister ; so it has
been always. Not the son of the King, but
the son of the King's oldest sister, for who
knows that a son born to the King's women
might be not of his blood. The people obey
the King, and next to the King are the Sukias
— wise men who charm away evil, keep the
Bugaru (chief evil spirit) from destroying the
people, and who, with their charms, save the
sick from the influence of the spirits of evil
which for ever are seeking to injure the living,
and all believe in and follow the word of the
Sukias. The chief Sukia is wise beyond the
others ; him all fear ; he lives deep in the moun-
tains and seldom is seen. Even the King has
fear of him, and before him the Bugaru never
can stand.
" After the Sukias are the Becockaras, who
watch over the food, the fields, and the cattle;
with them all people consult and find wisdom
for their planting, their hunting, their going
away, and their coming again.
" Apart from all are the Singers, who com-
mune with the dead, and watch over those who
have been taken from us. When a man dies
he is gone, and wants no more of the things
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which were here; and, as he wants them not,
we in due time make a feast, eating and drink-
ing. We do not give what he had to his sons
and his women; in the woods there is plenty,
and the fields yield enough; if they work, they
have no want of things which belonged to the
dead. Let them work and take from the earth
that which is fresh and good for their lives ;
but if they care not to work, they are not worthy
to have. The people who rule tell us this is
wrong; we do not hold it a wrong.
" When one is dead, those who are appointed
to handle the body take it away to the woods ;
there, bound securely with cloth and with leaves,
and placed in a house made of poles, the body
remains for a year, till the sun rises again on
the day of that life's departure; and if the
bones are found cleaned by the wind and the
rain, it is well ; the body is freed from the flesh,
and can then be taken high in the mountains
to be buried in the great vaults which were made
in days so long gone past that none remember
their making, only we know that there all are
gathered together ; but before the bones are taken
away, we dance and rejoice, bcause now they
are safe, and this we do dancing, drinking, and
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eating till all that belonged to the dead is con-
sumed. Then the family take up the bones
and go by themselves to the safe place high
in the mountains, and when they have laid the
dead in the vault which is theirs, for each fam-
ily has one, they leave a few things, that the
dead may not be in want, or be sent away empty-
handed; not that we think the things will be
needed, but only because it has been so always ;
then the family come home again to the low-
lands.
" The dances you saw were in farewell and
rejoicing, because those departed were safe.
The first dance was held for a woman. You saw
it. She had served the men well, and they
danced for her who had left them. The second
dance was for a man, and his companions danced
in his memory ; you saw the singers in farewell,
as at first, but with others joining to aid and
remember. The young men about the singers
represented the struggles of the life which had
been and which for them would still be. Behind
those who sang were three bearing a staff, and
on the staff was a snake of the lowlands, a type
of the evil which the dead were now leaving
behind them for ever; and before those who
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danced and sang in farewell was one bearing a
feather from a bird of the mountains; and
dancing he was a spirit, a bird leading and
calling on to the mountains where the dead were
to rest and would be safe for ever.
" The last dance was for a child only ; the
farewell was the same, but the women to whom
is confided the care of the children danced round
about hand in hand in token of life and its
struggles ; but not in order ; they danced in
and out among those who sang, for the child's
life had been broken, and so was their dance. '
" This is all ; it is little ; only farewell to the
dead. Not that they need it, but only that it
has been so always; it is our custom and it is
nothing more."
Then Antonio, the King, stopped talking.
Beyond the deep shade of his cave-like house
was the intense burning heat of the tropics ;
a shimmering of light over the green of the
jungles ; a wavering of intense heat over the
grass in the clearing in front of his houses.
Quietly the cattle and horses were feeding;
scarce a breath stirred. Antonio the King
looked over the scene a long time in silence, and
then said, as if thinking aloud : " For the white
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men the cities, plantations, the ships; for the
Indians only the forests. Why will they not
leave us our own? "
There was much that I wanted to know beside
what had been told, and I asked the King how
the dead were finally buried, to which he replied :
'* There is little ceremony ; the package of bones
is placed in a hammock and carried to the bury-
ing-ground in the mountains ; the top of the
vault is removed, and the dead laid away with
those who had gone before them; the vault is
covered again, and by its side we leave a stool
to sit on, a clay jar for chicha, a cup for drink-
ing, a gourd, and for each man a bow, arrows,
hunting-bag, and his walking-staff; for each
woman a basket. We do not think the dead
need these things; it is only a custom."
Would they show me the burying-ground .^^
Decidedly they would not, because they knew
the white men would dig open the vaults and
take the bones of their dead, an act they all
feared, the King saying : " That is a curious
custom of yours. Your people want our dead,
yet never think of disturbing your own. Why
do you this? We cannot tell, and do not hear
your words of excuse."
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Then I said: "Don Antonio, ask them to
sell me all the things they use in a dance of
farewell, that I may make a dance for myself."
"Without the dead? That would be foul,"
and the face of the King wore a grave, anxious
look.
" But," I urged, " one will die ; let me have
these things, for the dance is good."
Then Antonio said : " What harm can it
do ? " and to the men standing near : " Get
the things for him, that, knowing all, he may
even dance for himself if he will."
Agreements were quickly made, and I was
promised that in a few days the collection would
be completed.
Then the King brought out the regalia and let
me take the things in my hand. The staff of
office was of very hard wood, a bird's head carved
at the top, the throat hollow and containing a
ball with which a clear, rattling sound could
be made. The crown was of feathers, a circle of
white plumes from the eagle, with long red and
blue tail feathers from the mackaw standing
erect at the front, while around the base of the
crown were iridescent feathers, green, red, blue,
and yellow, cleverly blended together. Around
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his neck were hung seven golden eagles, Identical
in form with others found among the most
ancient graves in Costa Rica. He had also a
string of shell beads like those found in old
graves, and called pre-Colombian.
When I had seen the regalia, the King said he
was obliged to leave me alone for a time, because
some Indians had called him.
I went to the hut where I was to live, think-
ing of all I had seen and wondering by what
means more could be learned. I was commis-
sioned to make a collection, and the idea took
my fancy that the model of a dead Indian, and
a second model of the bones prepared for the
dance and final interment would be specimens
well worth the effort. To prepare the model
I had only some string and my knife, but In
the tropics nature Is lavish, and with the aid
of some of the younger Indians, who appeared
immensely amused at what I proposed, mate-
rial was found in abundance. A young Indian
willingly stood for a model, and after taking
measurements carefully, I began the construc-
tion. A gourd served very well for a head;
a young bushy tree provided a collar-bone,
spine, and the ribs, which were bent into shape
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with my bits of string. A second gourd care-
fully cut made a good imitation of thighs, and
jointed pieces of wood formed the legs, arms,
feet, and hands. Then the body was padded
with straw till its appearance became really nat-
ural, and the young Indians said it was truly a
" deader." Then I told them that the body was
my Uncle Gabriel, and that I must have him
laid out in the woods, because he was dead. The
men objected, of course, but they yielded after
a time. Cloth was procured, and the body
wrapped snugly, and an outer covering of green
leaves bound securely around it. The bows,
arrows, staff, cup, and hunting-bag were bound
together and laid on its right side; a stool was
brought and placed at its feet, and by the left
hand was placed a jar for chicha. Then I asked
them to take up the model and prepare a place
in the woods where it might stay for a year.
This they positively refused ; yet I forced them,
urging, threatening, and commanding. Then
one said : " This is bad, but we finish. Take
up your deader and come." We started at once,
but warning cries of horror and fear came from
the women. The men stopped, but by some
influence, I hardly know how, I made them go
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on. In the woods the work was soon done.
First a little place was cleared in a thicket;
then poles were laid on the ground, a few leaves
put over them, and on these the model was
placed. Around it slender poles were forced
in the ground, and all bound tightly together,
forming a cage in which a body would stay a
long time well secured; about it the staff, bow,
arrows, and hunting-bag, the stool, and the jar
for chicha were laid as before; that was all,
and seemed very little to have required such
effort. The cage was taken up, the pieces care-
fully labelled that they might be put together
again in New York, and the specimens were
thus carried back to the hut in which I was
living. On the way we saw frightened women
run to hide in the King's house, though some
stood at a distance looking at us with wonder-
ing caution.
In regard to the objects used in the dances,
the King's orders were being obeyed, and all
the implements were freely brought to me, all
but the wooden instrument on which the clicking
sound was made. There was but one in the
tribe, which had been handed down from time
immemorial, and no one had any idea of making
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another, but as dances were held without it,
because it were impossible that the instrument
should be at the service of all, I did not con-
sider it of such great importance. I was most
anxious to secure a model of the bones as pre-
pared for final interment, and now sat in my
house planning how this should be done, and
listening to frightened voices and exclamations
of anger from Indians in the King's house,
where they had gathered together. How long
they continued I do not remember, for when
evening came I went to my hammock, taking
my pistol with me as usual, and soon fell asleep,
leaving my plans and the Indians till morning.
The next day I found everything quiet again,
and set to work preparing my skeleton model.
It was not easy work, for material was scarce.
The head was a gourd, branches and bits of
wood formed the bones, a hollow stick cut in
sections represented the spine, and from a large
gourd thigh bones were made. Then all were
laid out on the floor, each bit of wood in the
place where a bone should have been. The effect
was so natural that the Indians were frightened ;
then they became interested, and when I said
the bones were those of my Uncle Gabriel, re-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
cently dead, and that I must have them pre-
pared for a dance I would hold in New York,
they looked at me in wonder, hesitated, and then
prepared to obey. A cloth was brought, and
the mimic skull carefully taken, the collar-bones
were thrust into the opening to hold it in place,
the ribs were forced through the sections rep-
resenting the spine, and all were laid on the
cloth, the skull at the top; then at either side
they placed the bones of the arms, the bits of
wood representing the fingers and hands were
placed in little piles at the base of the arms ; the
thigh bones were placed where the stomach
would be, the legs were put in position, at the
end of each were placed the bits of wood which
represented the bones of the feet; then the
cloth was folded over, and the compact little
package bound tightly with cords; leaves were
brought from the forest, and the final binding
was being put on, when a tumult of walling
and outcry came from the women ; something
was shouted in a horrified voice, which was im-
mediately taken up by all of the people. The
men started back, and, looking at me with
terror, refused to proceed with the work. I was
determined to make them, and would not allow
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them to go out of the house. Perhaps they
feared me more than my model; at any rate,
after a moment, they turned again to their work,
and, with faces perspiring and hands that were
trembhng, they finished it all. I ordered them
then to prepare a support, and place the model
on it as if it were there for a dance ; this they
did, while the women shouted denunciations and
cried out in fear. When all had been finished,
two bits of wood, one hard and one soft, in which
a fire had been kindled by friction, were placed
under the leaves surrounding the package of
bones, and the dead was provided with fire. A
hammock was brought in which the remains
could be carried; that was all, and then my
collection was finished. The men hurried away,
saying that never would they again enter that
house, which they now held had been cursed.
The women had all disappeared, and I noticed
as I packed up my specimens that everywhere
there was an ominous silence; perhaps my in-
vestigations would yet cost me dear. In the
afternoon Josecito came to say that he wanted
me to sleep at his house. I wanted to go, but
who would care for my specimens? No, I deter-
mined that I would remain, and Josecito rode
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slowly away. That evening the women came
back, but there was no supper for me. I passed
an anxious night, and yet nothing happened.
In the morning I gathered my specimens to-
gether, intending to start for the clearings,
where the Costa Rican Governor was living, but
here were new troubles. No Indian would touch
the evil things I had made, and it was evident
they did not intend to permit me to take them
myself. I had no thought of yielding, so a
contest of wills was begun ; yet for me the time
was not lost, for I set to work to learn the words
of their chant, and after getting a fragment
from one or another I began to have some idea
of it all. The words were known, but they
belonged to a language which had been lost,
and even the singers had no idea of their mean-
ing. From a drunken Indian who happened
that way I finally got all the words together,
after a rather comical experience, in which I
started a rough singing contest, though I can-
not claim any voice except one which is at its
best only when silent; yet it now served the
purpose, and after awhile the Indian took up
the singing and began to chant their farewell
to the dead; the words were repeated over and
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
over, and as he sang I set them down as they
are here:
K, ah la u ha ma ta ka bi, su na ka bi a ya,
da shang huan.
SVr-^:^ J
" y /
==t=
==f=
II J J^ -T :d==i
H -
ok u
M.
_*!..
VM^ . ta - )•;&, iJc-
yi 7 J J J ' J" J J J j
I'-'^-hf
=i¥=
=M
' ■ r - -,■"
(In the musical notation, as here given, the
endeavour has been made in the arrangement
to render the death chant as it sounds when the
Indians are singing together in discord and in
irregular time according to their custom. The
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air is the monotone accented chant as it sounds
when sung by one Indian as a solo.)
This was an addition to my collection of
material, but I was no nearer getting away with
it all. The Indians grinned complacently, and
even came to look at the specimens, but touch
them — not for anything. That evening An-
tonio the King returned, and I thought my
troubles were over, but I am sorry to say that
Antonio was very drunk. I was still in his
favour, and though now all the Indians cowered
before him, I had nothing to fear. He neither
approved nor disapproved of my specimens, and
even apologized for his condition, blaming it
all on the Christians, as he called the white men,
who talked so fair but would not trade till they
had given them drink, and then when the In-
dians were happy and careless made unfair ex-
change, and sent them home almost empty
handed. Then he looked away to the wood-
lands with sad, drunken eyes, saying over and
over : " I am not a King, I am not a King, or
they would not do this."
Antonio said he could not order the men to
carry my things; it was theirs to do or not
172
- r.
' ^~ ' ^^1
n-'-'l
, . ^ ''7'
s 1
: <
1
i
AND ACROSS PANAMA
as they pleased. Only for himself he could
say I might take them ; that was all he could do.
That night I sent the Governor a letter, tell-
ing him of my difficulties and asking his aid,
and next morning three soldiers with a number
of mules appeared at my house, much to my
surprise, and said that the Governor had sent
them to help me. The Indians looked on in
amazement and fear, but made no objection;
then, while the specimens were being packed on
the mules, Antonio the King came, saying : " I
ride beside you, and Josecito has gone to ride
on before you."
As we went through the jungles in silence,
we frequently met with bands of armed Indians
who, on seeing the King, followed, but did me
no harm, and presently a goodly company had
gathered together, escorting me on through the
woods. After a time we stopped, and the King
said : " I go no further. We are now near the
Governor, and he is against me." Then, extend-
ing his hand, he said, as I grasped it : " Good-
bye, come again; I love you much." Then all
the Indians left us, and I soon reached the gov-
ernment buildings, where there was nothing to
do but to express my deep thanks to the Gov-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
emor, who would not allow me to pay for the
mules or the soldiers.
Before leaving that country I met a Sukia
who had come to the government buildings, and
to test what I knew of the farewell chant to the
dead, I sang it for him, and the surprised, angry
look on his face, as he demanded where I had
learned it, gave me assurance that I had not
been misled, and that it was in truth the death
chant of the Talamancas.
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CHAPTER XVII.
UP THE ATRATO RIVER IN COIiOMBIA
After a few days I left Sipurio, and spent
a little time examining the jungles and rub-
ber forests of Northern Panama. Rubber is
not so abundant in those regions as formerly,
but the lands are magnificently rich, the
streams clear and pleasant, and the mountain-
sides cool and healthy. Everywhere young rub-
ber-trees were coming up through the woods,
and if a system of forestry were established,
and maintained, all the jungles would soon
become abundantly productive of rubber; but
at present the search is so eager, and unre-
strained, that before a young rubber-tree reaches
the period of seeding, it is girdled and killed.
Under such a system, rubber is fast disappear-
ing from both Costa Rica and Panama.
After acquiring some lands for the company
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
I represented, I returned to Port Lemon, and
presently took a steamer for Cartagena, Colom-
bia.
The voyage was for two days only, and,
arriving at the ancient capital of Spain in
America, I found myself in an interesting old
city, where the streets were narrow and the
ancient buildings rich in memories of Spanish
colonial grandeur ; all enclosed by a great stone
wall, which in former days made this city the
impregnable stronghold of the early Spanish
rulers in America. Cartagena is not large, and
in a few hours all the points of interest can be
seen, and, after that, time and the sultry air
hang heavily.
For a few days I wandered about the city and
surrounding country, and then took passage on
a dilapidated little steam-tug, en route for the
Darien regions, where I expected to make a
series of explorations.
I was impressed with the necessity for re-
strictions in regard to passenger service in dan-
gerously weak steamers. In most countries the
little boat in which I was travelling would have
been condemned and sold for old junk, but in
South America she was allowed to go to sea,
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
though whether she would ever come back was
a very serious question. On the way the ma-
chinery broke down several times, and once or
twice her position became really dangerous, and
during the whole voyage the situation was
serious.
We ran pretty well out to sea, though the
water was quite rough. Once, when the wind
was at its height, I noticed two white specks
on the horizon, which seemed to be rapidly ap-
proaching. Presently I saw that they were
Indian canoes, nothing but shallow dugouts, yet,
managed by the Indians, they were skimming
over the waves like birds, till I wondered at the
dexterity with which they were handled.
One afternoon we turned toward the land,
the captain looking anxiously ahead, and I no-
ticed that the men, too, were peering at the
water as if in fear, and I saw one cross himself
reverently, after the manner of the country.
I asked him why he did this, and he replied.
" Because, senor, there are many dead here.'*
" How so? " I asked.
" The Needles," he said. " Don't you know
about them? "
" No, tell me."
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
" They are sunken rocks, with long, sharp
points, out here for miles northward of Eagle
Point; but they just show their tips above
water. Wait and you will see."
A few moments later there was slight dis-
turbance in the water, and a wave curled up and
foamed over.
" That is one," he said, " but it seldom shows
itself. There are others further on."
Presently he pointed and said, " Look there."
I saw a ripple of foam circling around a wave,
then suddenly a number of long black points
seemed to rise up out of the water and stealthily
disappeared again.
Then a wave curled up where they had been
and the water was all quiet once more; then
they rose up again, as if to menace the ship,
and then mysteriously disappeared. A bit of
foam marked the spot for one instant, and the
sea was calm, without even a sign that there was
danger. So far as I could see toward the north,
there were points in the ocean where the waves
rose up at times, and foamed over, making a
truly dangerous place. A relieved look in the
faces of the crew told me when the danger
was past, and then In about half an hour we
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
rounded Eagle Point and were coasting along
the eastern shore of the Gulf of Darien.
That night we anchored, for fear of collision
with drifting logs, and, after the relief of a
quiet night, made an early start, the captain
hoping to get his boat over the bar at one o^
the numerous mouths of the delta of the Atrato
River before the tide ran down, though the rise
and fall was insignificant. As we approached
the land, a scene of desolation unfolded itself
to our view. In this country it rains so fre-
quently that it is always expected, and now
a steady downpour came falling with disconso-
late persistence from the leaden skies of the
morning. Then we ran close to a swampy shore,
where plants struggled against the encroaching
waters, and dead trees stood gaunt like skeletons.
From among the uncertain growth a flood
of yellow water came pouring, and the next
instant we bumped up against the bar, slid over
it, and were in one of the outlets of the delta
of the Atrato, and then we made our way cau-
tiously toward the main river. Presently we
reached it, and the sweeping torrent was a fit-
ting demonstration of the volume of water which
can accumulate in a country where a clear day
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is rare, and the sun is considered worthy of
remark when its rays penetrate the ever-threat-
ening clouds.
Progress was slow against such a heavy cur-
rent, the little steamer made frequent stops to
take on wood, and we always tied up for the
night. Frequently, while taking wood, the men
uncovered snakes, scorpions, tarantulas, and
centipedes ; and their possible presence in the
wood taken on board was a constant danger,
yet the men gave little heed. They were careful
not to touch a snake, but had little regard for
the poisonous insects, though they were some-
what cautious if tarantulas were about ; but
scorpions and centipedes were scarcely noticed.
At one wood-pile the men called me to see a
black, or crab-scorpion, as they called it, which
was, they said, as dangerous as any snake. It
was a strong, illy-proportioned insect; the claws
and body were heavy and broad, while the tail
was short and stubby, looking strangely out of
proportion. I held it down with the point of
my machete, and it began to rain blows on the
blade with its sting till the steel resounded from
the attack. Then I crushed the ugly thing, and
found it was incased in a shell, hard almost like
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that of a crab, though the ordinary scorpion is
soft, with scarcely any protection. The men
said that these crab-scorpions were rare, and
sometimes years would pass without one being
seen; which was fortunate, for otherwise it
would be a dangerous matter to handle wood
and produce in that country.
Our progress was slow, and there was little
to attract one's attention in the monotonous
series of mud-banks, swamps, and jungles.
After a few days' travelling, higher ground
appeared, and a little further on we came to
a forlorn-looking city called Quibdo; a little
town where the native gold-washers come to sell
their product, and a few merchants do a thriv-
ing business, trading goods for gold-dust.
From here I took a canoe two days up the river,
and established headquarters at a village called
Lloro, and, on arriving, engaged two faithful
guides, strong, daring men, who promised to
go with me anywhere I might desire. Soon I
learned that their word was good, and that they
were ready to go wherever I might direct, and
as to my money, I never gave a thought for
its care, and didn't lose a cent.
Yet these splendid specimens of men were
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
denounced and excommunicated by the Church,
and the elder said, when I employed him,
" There is only one thing : if we meet a priest,
we must run and hide till he has gone."
They readily consented to tell me how this
was. For a long time in that country there had
been no priests, but one day a number came to
establish a mission, and within a few months
had gotten themselves thoroughly hated. The
people had customs of their own which the
priests immediately condemned, perhaps not
without reason. One such custom was a civil
marriage, or contract before witnesses, which
had been considered sufficient. The priests said
this was a sin of heresy and a direct crime
against ecclesiastical law; and ordered all peo-
ple to appear before them at once, that they
might perform the religious ceremony accord-
ing to the rites of the Church. The people were
quite willing, as they did not wish to do wrong ;
but when they were informed that each man on
his marriage would have to pay sixteen dollars
they began to doubt the sincerity of the priests ;
and some people said openly that all the priests
wanted was the sixteen dollars. Many of the
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people did not have the money, and this brought
on the trouble.
My two men had not been married in the
Church, and considered themselves, their wives,
and their families entirely respectable, as their
mothers and fathers had been before them ; and
the remarkable spectacle was presented of priests
as persecutors, not as friends and counsellors,
but as men trying to use the force at their
command to secure an end. The people did
not object to the end, only to the price, which
some of them did not have, and they naturally
inferred that it was the price, and not the end,
that the priest was seeking; because, where
the money was not forthcoming, arrests fol-
lowed with beating, or other punishment, even
though the man was quite willing to be married
according to the ecclesiastical law.
No doubt it was all a mistake. When a man
said he had not the money and could not do
as the priest advised, the priest probably thought
he refused the rites of the Church, and when
the priest spoke of a reasonable charge for the
ceremony, the people, not being accustomed to
ministrations from the Church, thought the re-
quirement was for the money only, misunder-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
standings and contention resulting. The only
inconvenience that I suffered was because of my
mackintosh, which the people took for a priestly
garment, and on my arrival at a village where
I was not known, many of the people took to
the woods, and valuable time was lost before
they could be persuaded 'to return.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE WILDERNESS OF THE CHOCO COUNTRY
From Lloro I started on a series of explora-
tions, and with my two faithful guides I trav-
elled for miles among the lowlands and moun-
tains of the Choco country, a region some three
hundred miles south of Panama. Many days
were spent in long canoe voyages up strange
rivers, where torrents of water went crowding
and chafing along against their wooded banks.
It rained frequently, but many days were clear,
and, secure with faithful guides in an unknown
country of strange uncertainties, I thoroughly
enjoyed my explorations.
Frequently we met other parties in canoes,
who were all curiosity to learn about my affairs
and the object of my visit.
My men always answered that they did not
know, usually replying, " He's a stranger, go-
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ing here and stopping there, just as he fancies,
travelling like a crazy man ; perhaps he is one."
Whether they thought it policy not to tell of
my examinations in regard to the gold deposits
of that country, or whether they really thought
I was not of sound mind, I do not know, but
their peculiar care of me was perhaps suggest-
ive.
Once when we were on one of the smaller
rivers, my chief guide, Profanio, called my
attention to the trunk of a great tree which had
fallen high above our heads across a ravine.
It was worn smooth by the feet of animals that
made it their regular track between the hills,
and I was told that here, any night, wildcats,
panthers, and jaguars could be shot as they
passed across the log. It seemed a pity that I
could not stay to have a shot at them, but
I had come for other things, and left the place
behind me with some regret.
That same night we camped well up the river,
having forced the canoe as far as it would go.
We had to contend for our camp, a rude hut
built in the woods, with a swarm of red ants,
and after considerable trouble got the place free
of them.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
Then we fixed our beds and were soon enjoy-
ing a thorough rest. I was just dozing off
when I was awakened by a strange noise in the
woods, something like the vibrations of a cord
against a drumhead mingled with a hissing
sound, at times almost a deep whistle.
Then I heard an old man who was with us
say, " Companions, did you hear that? "
" Yes," said Profanio, in a sleepy voice, " it
isn't coming here."
" Don't be too sure. Hark, there it is again."
" I'm not afraid," was the answer, but I no-
ticed that Profanio was sitting up, looking anx-
iously in the direction of the sound.
" Is the boat where we can make it away
easily? " said the old man, getting up.
" Keep still," said Profanio, " or you will
have it after us."
" Better see that the Senor is awake, and
ready, if we have to go."
Profanio got up softly and said to me, " We
may have to run for the boat if it comes nearer.
Are you ready? "
" Yes," I replied; " what is it? "
" A barabosa, don't talk," and he went softly
to his place.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
For a few minutes we heard that strange
sound a little distance from the camp, and then
it began to go further away, and finally it was
lost in the distance.
" It's gone ; I knew it wasn't coming," said
Profanio, though I could tell by his voice that
he was glad of it.
" It was only for the Senor," said the old
man ; " he did not know what to do."
Then I sat up in my hammock and said,
" Profanio, what is a barabosa ? "
" A big snake as large around as my arm,"
answered the older guide.
"Is that all.?" I said.
" Yes — and it is enough. The bite is so bad
that none of our remedies can cure it; and if
it meets a party in the woods it will come and
fight and certainly bite some one before it is
killed. It is like a rattlesnake more than any
other, but has a horn where it ought to have
rattles. When they threaten to come into camp,
we usually take to the canoes, but to-night it
was not angry and did not come."
It was not long after this when I heard the
two men sleeping soundly, and after listening
for awhile to all the strange, murmuring sounds
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
of the deep woods, I fell asleep myself, and
forgot that there was any such thing as a
barabosa, and even now I am rather doubtful
about it.
Another day, while we were going up a larger
river, the men began telling me of great mon-
sters, living in a black hole where the water was
so deep that no one knew how far away the
bottom was. Both of the men insisted that it
was true, and said that the animal had been
seen, and at times they caught smaller specimens.
They said that to fall into the water where the
big ones were living was sure death, and that
several people had been killed by them.
They called the animal the quicharo, and
said that it was neither fish nor alligator; that
they were found from two to even twenty feet
long, and were remarkable principally for a
great oval-shaped head and rounded jaws set
with enormous teeth. That in place of feet it
had two flippers; that the widest part was just
back of the head, and that the body tapered
abruptly to the tail, which was not especially
prominent. All the upper part of the body,
they stated, was covered with rough plates, that
gave it the appearance of a great brown log
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
when on rare occasions it was seen floating on
the surface of the water. The smaller speci-
mens, they said, were good to eat, but that after
the plates grew the animal was all soft inside,
and went to water or soft pulpy material after
being caught.
Presently we came to the point where the
biggest quicharos were said to live. It was a
strange, mysterious-looking place, a great,
round pool of dark water surrounded by rocks,
with rapids just above it.
I looked over the side of the canoe and won-
dered what might be the real basis of their be-
lief in this strange animal ; no doubt something,
but probably not at all as described. I was
beyond the reach of the light of modern sci-
ence, and here the people still believed in their
fancied creations, and to them the world is still
peopled with monsters; a mystery must take
some form of expression, and is gradually built
up into a figure, perhaps the exaggeration of
some well-known species.
I made a great many small inquiries about
this quicharo, and everybody seemed to know of
it, and in general the descriptions all agreed
with the outlines as given; and it may be that
190
«\
wm
'^ V'x yy„ ' ' f, ,//V/^' ', '^y 'yy/'/^
.:.^C.d^
AND ACROSS PANAMA
in the deep pools of water, to the south of the
swamps of the Darien region, a fish something
like the sturgeon attains great size. The water
is cool and fresh, and there is certainly room
for such development, as the rivers in most
places are very deep.
We were on our way to visit some of iie In-
dians, and shortly after leaving the deep pool
in which the quicharos are supposed to live, we
came to a collection of round houses built on
long posts, according to the usage of the Choco
Indians.
We found the place empty, which was a dis-
appointment, as the houses appeared to belong
to Indians of the better sort. We went on fur-
ther up the river and presently came to other
houses. These were also empty. Still we went
on ; and turning up a side river came to a large
house, where the Indians had all gathered,
drinking guarapo, that is, fermented sugar-
cane juice. The men were in all stages of in-
toxication, but, as my guides were well known
to them, we received a welcome, and my first
acquaintance with the Choco Indians began.
They were a handsome people of a rather gentle
appearance, using little clothing, their bodies
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
painted with lines representing various devices;
their hair arranged in a cue, a small bunch of
flowers, sweet-smelling gums, barks, or leaves
tied in the end. These they sniffed at fre-
quently, putting the end of the cue to their
nostrils, and seemed to thoroughly enjoy it.
It was raining when we came up, and I must
admit that I was rather dirty, while my face,
between hot sun and alternate rains and fogs,
was burnt and blistered to all sorts of colours,
and I was just considering whether it would
be better to do something to improve my ap-
pearance, and, by braving the rain, make my-
self partially clean and all wet, or to remain
all dirty and partially dry, when the Indians
began gathering around me.
Presently an old chief said, " I hope you
don't mind that we look at you, Sefior."
" Not at all," said I ; " why do you want
to look at me? "
*' Because we never saw a man like you," the
chief replied, and the others grunted an assent.
" But there have been white men through
here before," I said.
** Yes, but never like you ; you are perfectly
beautiful," answered the chief.
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Now an Indian says exactly what he means
and means what he says, and I began to wish I
had taken to the river to make myself a little
more presentable, in spite of the rain.
Then the chief said, very respectfully, " You
would perhaps tell us one thing, just one ques-
tion."
*' Certainly," I said, with pride, " what is
it?"
" Do you paint, or is the colour real ? "
"What colour?" I asked.
" Why, your nose, Seiior ; it is perfectly
grand ; we never saw such a colour on any man
before."
I looked the other way, and then went out
to see how hard it was raining, fully convinced
that an Indian is a fool by nature, and that
nothing can make him different.
The next day I determined to go further up
the river, the Mombaramombarado, by which
we were stopping, and make a general examina-
tion as I went. I told my man, Profanio, what
I wanted.
" Rather dangerous," he said ; " you had bet-
ter not try it ; but, if you wish it, I am ready.*'
" I do wish it," I said.
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
" Then I will fix the boat at once. We can
take one of the Indians, and when he says it
is time to come back, we must."
" Very well, I will leave that to you, but I
wish to go as far as possible," I answered.
Without any more words we started. The river
certainly was rough, and a number of times I
thought we had reached the limit, but still we
pushed on; frequently the Indian hesitated,
but Profanio urged him on, till at last the In-
dian, pointing to a black cloud up the river,
said, " Rain, flood. No more ! Back ! Quick,
too ! " We went around in an instant, and
sweeping down with an ever-increasing current.
The river rose alarmingly, and the roaring of
the rapids was constantly increasing.
The Indian said, " We will get below the
big rapids before the flood is high, and we will
be — " but just then the pole held by Pro-
fanio was caught between two sunken rocks,
while he was pushing the boat over to a smoother
place in order to avoid a dangerous rapid. The
force of the current was such, as the boat
jammed against the pole, that Profanio turned
a somersault over into the deepest rapid, and
the Indian went head over heels backward. The
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
canoe gave a great lurch, filled with water, and
almost turned over, and then, sinking like a
water-logged timber, swung around and started
on a mad rush down the rapids, I clinging to
my seat keeping the canoe right side up, though
it was entirely under water. Another instant
and I would have been swept into the heaviest
rapids, but just then a large, black hand rose
out of the boiling water, a second it struggled,
partially sank, the muscles tightened in a final
effort, and my man's head rose out of the water.
He caught the side of the boat and then, with
an exhibition of muscular strength and skill
in swimming which could scarcely be excelled,
he kept the boat in position, though it was
under water, and actually guided it safely down
all that fierce rapid, and brought it into a quiet
place, where I scrambled out on the rocks, say-
ing, " Well, you are the greatest swimmer I
ever saw."
" Yes, perhaps," he said, " but you sat still,
and so it was easy enough." I really sat still
because I was about paralyzed with fright; but
I didn't say anything. There was no reason
why I should tell him, anyway. The Indian
had saved himself, and, righting the canoe, we
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
went on down the river, reached the Indian
houses without further trouble, though by this
time the water was well up. I had lost some
valuable instruments, but had reason to be thank-
ful that I came out of the accident alive.
We did not stop for the night with the In-
dians, but taking our big canoe, we were soon
flying down the River Mombaramombarado, and
out into the Capa River, and on down to a Span-
iard's house, where we stopped for the night.
I visited a number of places in the Choco
country, accompanied by my faithful guides,
but there were no further adventures, and a
little later I left their country, going out by
way of the Pacific.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XIX.
A CANOE ROUTE FROM THE CARIBBEAN TO THE
PACIFIC
It may not be generally known that in West-
ern Colombia there is an almost continuous
waterway available for canoe traffic from the
Caribbean to the Pacific, The route is from
the Gulf of Darien up the Atrato River to the
Quito River, up the Quito to its headwaters, in
a series of swamps and wet places, where a
canoe can be forced across in rainy weather, to
the headwaters of the San Pablo River, down the
San Pablo to the San Juan River, and thence
via the San Juan to the Pacific. This route
is not always open, and on reaching the head-
waters of the Quito a short portage is generally
made to the San Juan River.
After my examinations in the Choco country,
I travelled toward the Pacific, crossing the upper
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
divide, where the mountains are higher than
those at the Quito portage, and I was some
hours on the trail.
While going through the woods, one of my
men suddenly cried out in pain, and said that
he had been stung by a congo-ant. His arm
swelled up and appeared very painful for some
hours, and he told me that the sting of these
ants was as bad and often as dangerous as a
sting from a large scorpion. As we went
through the woods, I had every opportunity
of examining these ugly fellows, which are
really wingless wasps.
They are black, about one to two inches long,
with jaws like ordinary ants, and with these
they take hold on the flesh, and then begin a
regular thrashing with a long, sharp sting
placed like that of a wasp, using it so vigor-
ously that many ugly wounds are inflicted be-
fore they can be killed; at other times they
keep up a running fire, going rapidly from
place to place, and doing damage all the time
without stopping to take hold.
They have a bad temper, and no sooner are
the trees or bushes disturbed where they are
living than they come swarming along the
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Caribbean Sea
AND ACROSS PANAMA
twigs as mad as hornets, to get at whatever or
whoever had stirred them up. For this habit
they are much dreaded, and there are places
where it is said one cannot go in the woods with-
out being stung.
There is a smaller red ant reported in this
country, called the castinette, which is said to
sting harder and inflict more serious wounds
than the congo-ants; but I have never seen
them and cannot say for myself.
We were delayed some time attending the man
who had been stung, and were late reaching the
canoe on the San Juan, or rather on a stream
leading to the San Juan, and we could not
finish our day's journey, but slept at a little
village called Carmela, and early next morning
started on our way again. The upper part of
this river is always dangerous. It passes with
great velocity through a narrow gorge, and
the tumult of the waters is appalling, not a
tumult of waves and breakers, for the channel
is of unknown depth, but a tumult of deep,
ominous sounds as the canoe goes sweeping on
among the rocks. Great upheavals of water rise
and fall; at times a mass of water, crowded
to the surface in the narrow gorge, will pour
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itself out over the water with frightful violence ;
at other points whirlpools are formed, and the
surface of the river is constantly changing, but
not the change of tumbling waters passing rap-
idly down a steep incline. The channel of the
San Juan is almost at the sea-level, and but
little inclined; the masses of water crowd for-
ward as if impelled by a great force, a pressing
onward rather than a falling.
As our canoe went sweeping on over these
treacherous waters, we would at times feel a
tremor run through it like a human shudder;
then, forcing itself up all around us, would
come a great upheaval of water, threatening to
throw the canoe over into the seething mass.
The men told me that once in that water there
was no chance for escape, that one would cer-
tainly be sucked under, never to be seen again^
or else would be beaten to death by the force
of the waves. Once, as we were passing over a
comparatively quiet place, a sudden commotion
of water rose around us, and for a time the
waves threatened to wreck the canoe, but skilful
handling by the men saved it, and we escaped
with a wetting and a severe fright. At such
a time one could hardly help being overawed
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
in the presence of a mighty force so near that
one could feel its every tremor.
We arrived at San Pablo without incident,
and I at once began looking for an opportunity
to go to the Pacific. I found little prospect
of starting, and secured a room, where I made
preparations to stay for a few days. That
night I prepared for bed, hoping that place
was clean, but inwardly mistrusting my sur-
roundings. I took my pistol and placed it
within easy reach, and then lay down. How
often I have done this in a strange place, and
then gone quietly to sleep, not knowing when
I might be awakened by some approaching dan-
ger. I have become so used to my pistol that
sometimes even when at home I take it to bed
with me just for companion's sake.
That night nothing happened, that is, not
that I was conscious of; but in the morning I
found myself covered with numerous red marks
about two millimetres in diameter. They were
filled with blood and watery matter and itched
and burned considerably. It was my first ex-
perience with chinch-bugs. They are abundant
in the Choco country, but I had never felt them
till now. I had a full allowance and found them
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
troublesome enough, fortunately nothing more.
The bites of the chinch-bug are sometimes really
serious, and frequently they inflame to ugly
running sores, from which blood-poisoning has
resulted.
The chinch-bug looks like an exaggerated
edition of the well-known bedbug. It lives very
much like the northern insect, though, being
larger and stronger, wanders about more freely.
A chinch-bug lives for a considerable time,
and is truly dangerous, because it carries infec-
tion from one person to another, and in a country
infested with the most frightful skin diseases,
with leprosy, and all the evils of hereditary
afflictions, these chinch-bugs are a terror, and
I have more fear of them than any of the other
dangers with which a traveller in the tropics
must contend.
Between the annoyance of the chinch-bugs'
bites and the prospect of some days' delay, I
was feeling quite miserable, when I was sud-
denly, most agreeably, surprised at finding that
one of the merchants of San Pablo had made
all arrangements for me, and that I was to start
at once with a young man who was to take
charge of the boat. I found him prompt and
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
apparently efficient in carrying out the mer-
chant's directions, so I felt satisfied that I was
to be in good hands. We were soon ready, and,
as there was some trouble about securing assist-
ants, the young man said that he would take
the boat on alone, rather than delay any fur-
ther, and find men along the river. This
sounded like good business, and off we went.
A short distance below San Pablo we came
to a group of houses. The young captain of the
canoe hurried on shore, as I thought, to look
for men; but, to my surprise, he went to the
door of the nearest house, dropped on his knees,
and began to pray in a loud voice, reciting in
a singsong manner some form of litany, peti-
tioning for blessings, to which the women of the
house responded, looking on him with great
respect. He went to all the houses and did the
same thing, then he hurried back to the canoe,
looking very important, started across the river
to three other houses, and went through the
praying exhibition again.
This took time, and when he started for the
next group of houses I protested; he paid no
attention, however, but went through his pray-
ers with great vigour, and, returning to the
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canoe, gave me a look of mingled pity and de-
fiance, and immediately started the canoe toward
a group of houses further down the river, look-
ing at them eagerly as he plied the paddle.
I told him that I would have no more praying,
and, if he did it again, I would send him back
to the merchant, and he knew what the result
would be.
He seemed grieved, but I explained that I was
in a great hurry and could not give him the time.
He said nothing, but, taking the boat close to
shore, shouted to the people, " I can't come to
pray blessings for you; the patron is not a
Christian, and won't allow it."
A little farther down we stopped at a house
where my man said he would look for compan-
ions. The women were at home, and I am sorry
to say they were drunk, and, worse yet, my man
spouted his prayers and immediately started in
to drink from a plentiful supply of rum.
It was raining hard, but then it always rains
in this country, and I was determined to push
on ; so I took the rum away from him by force,
and ordered him out to look for men. He went
somewhat reluctantly, but I managed to hurry
him up a little by showing him my pistol, and
204
AND ACROSS PANAMA
asking if he knew what it was for. He went
along then, and presently came back with some
young men who proved to be his brothers, and
then the united families became solicitous that
I should stay all night, in fact, so anxious and so
curious about my things that I was satisfied that
it would be better to start at once and save
losses; so after considerable force and persua-
sion, I prevailed on the men to start that after-
noon, though the females were lamenting over
the loss of expected presents.
We got along well enough after this, and at
nightfall stopped to sleep at a group of houses ;
here the young man said a lot of prayers and
appeared contented. Making the best of a bad
thing, I got a table to sleep on, while my men
amused themselves talking with a number of
canoe-owners, who, in going up or down the
river, had all stopped here for the night.
I caught more chinch-bugs while I slept, and,
as they were making me very uncomfortable,
especially toward morning, I got the men up
and made them go on.
By noon we had reached still water, and then
the men lay back on their seats and began lazily
to go to sleep. I angrily ordered them to go
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on, but they paid no attention, and presently
told me that they proposed to drift with the
current, and we would go down the river after a
time. Words seemed useless, and it would not
have done any good to have killed them, for
then I would have been worse off. I threatened
for a time, and they began to paddle, but not
for long; and presently my praying servant
said, coolly, " If you will pay us more, we will
work and take you to Buenaventara in good
time. How much more will you add to our
pay?"
" A forty-four of good lead," I replied, " if
you are not careful."
They worked a little after that, but we made
poor progress, and at times scarcely moved at
all. It was most uncomfortable, and if I hap-
pened to want anything, the first words were,
" How much are you going to advance the pay
if I doit?"
In this way we went on till one afternoon I
noticed that the boat stood still, and then began
to move backward. I called to the men, who
were sleeping on their paddles. They looked
at me and then at the water and said, " The tide
is rising ; we have reached the sea."
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
I was delighted, thinking that I was near the
end of my journey, but I was mistaken; we
turned up a river called the Colima, where we
slept for a part of the night, and then pushed
on to a brook called the Guineo. Here we
stopped for another night, and then trouble
began. The men positively refused to go on,
fearing that when they reached Buenaventara
they would be taken and forced into the army.
There was a revolution in Colombia, and nobody
knew what the outcome was to be. In vain I
threatened, even promising to denounce them
before the Alcalde ; they only replied it was bet-
ter to suffer at home than be forced Into the
army.
There were no other men to be found any-
where, and so I had to give in and offer them
increased pay; and to make it more secure,
I bought each of them permission from the Al-
calde fo go to Buenaventara and return free
from military service; and I promised to give
them each five silver dollars advance on their
wages if they put me in Buenaventara in one
day; this they said could be done easily, and
so, taking a small canoe for the trip up the
Guineo, and hiring another man to be sure that
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we could have enough to carry my things across
the divide, we started on.
The brook was very low, and we had difficulty
making our way around the sharp corners, under
fallen logs, or along the overhanging banks.
It was a wilderness of trees, plants, and coarse
flowers, a typical forest of the tropical low-
lands.
At last we came to the divide, and started
across it, not a great distance, and, as I hired
some men who happened that way to take part
of my things, we made good time. We arrived
about two p. M. at the hut where belated trav-
ellers stopped for the night. Here a caretaker
had canoes for rent, which were needed for only
half a day, and cost more than is paid for all
the route I had just passed over; but then I had
to have one, and the caretaker fixed the price
to suit the necessity.
My men wanted to stop for the night, but
I reminded them that I had agreed to pay each
five dollars extra provided they put me in
Buenaventara that day. They could rest, but
only at their own expense.
They protested that they were tired, that the
way had been long and hard, and many other
208
AND ACROSS PANAMA
things. I had no sympathy, so they decided to
go on. I had them this time, and how they did
work and curse; it was a great satisfaction to
see them, and they could work if they wanted to.
They were anxious about the tide. If it were
favourable, they would not have a very hard
time, but we had not gone much farther down
the stream when we came to a stretch of quiet
water; then the current began to set against us,
slowly at first, but with ever-increasing strength,
till presently, though we were miles away from
the ocean, an irresistible flood of water came
sweeping up the creek, rising, rising, till a great
lake began to form among the trees around us.
The men had to work now, but I cared little
for them, though I was well anxious about
getting to Buenaventara before night set in.
We presently came out into a broad sheet of
quiet water that looked black and forbidding.
My men told me that it was tremendously deep,
and that once in that water there was no escape,
because of the multitudes of sharks.
We now began to pick our way through broad
channels and between islands, where mangroves
and palm-trees were growing in abundance.
The men did well here, and got through suc-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
cessfully without losing the way. To lose one's
way among those islands means wandering in a
labyrinth from which it would be difficult to
escape.
By this time darkness was setting in, and the
men said we would stop for the night at a shed
made of leaves that was just beyond us.
I said we would not, and ordered them to
go on. They stopped paddling and considered.
I ordered them on a second time. Then one of
them said, with a curse, " Let us do it now,
throw him out of the boat and see the sharks
eat him, and then do as we please, and have all
his things, too."
" And my pistol," I said, " it is ready at my
side awaiting for you."
He said nothing. " Now," I said, " go right
on, or the sharks will have some dead meat pres-
ently."
They went on, and after a time we came
within sight of what appeared to be the lights
of Buenaventara, but as yet a long way off
across the water.
Then we noticed that the lights seemed to be
coming nearer, and rapidly, too. What could
it mean? Then a whisper went from one to the
210
AND ACROSS PANAMA
other of my men, " A military expedition, — if
they find us, we are lost."
Quick as a thought the canoe was turned to
one side, the men, working now with all their
might, paddling for an island that was not far
away.
On came the boats below us, the lights grow-
ing brighter, yet seeming to stand still on the
dark water. We gained the island and hid
under the overhanging branches. Two or three
boats went past us. Then the men were ready
to go on again, and began paddling cautiously
along the island. Presently we saw other lights,
and could tell that the canoes were moving
about, and that one was coming directly in
toward us.
" They are searching the islands," said one of
the men ; " it is all up with us."
Then they made a dash over the side of the
canoe for the land, and, scrambling up among
the bushes, disappeared in the thick underbrush,
and I was left alone, — truly a pleasant situ-
ation.
For a time I waited, expecting every minute
to see a light coming cautiously around the
corner, probably to be followed by a volley from
ail
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the muskets of the soldiers, and a demand for
surrender. Most likely I would not be hit, but
a searching party, expecting to meet an enemy,
would, on coming across a canoe hidden under
the trees, almost certainly fire, and perhaps do
serious damage.
I sat there waiting, intending to call out that
I was an American lost among the islands, and
ask them for help, before they could fire; but
it made me feel anxious, and, as I sat there, I
wished heartily that whatever might be coming
tvould come quickly. But it didn't, and after
waiting for a time I called to my men, and a
voice came from the woods pleading that I would
be quiet, — the soldiers were on the other side
of the island, and if I spoke would be on us
in an instant. Then I sat waiting for a few
minutes, but nothing came, and I called to my
men, telling them to come at once, and, if they
did not, I would fire my pistol to attract the
soldiers, and when they came I would tell where
to look for fugitives. A groan from the woods
was the only answer. " Come now," I said,
taking out my pistol and cocking it, " come,
or I'll shoot."
Then I heard the men coming, and soon they
2U
AND ACROSS PANAMA
were in the boat, with wild looks of fear and
reproachful words for my cruelty. I ordered
the cowards on, and we soon left the soldiers
behind us. Presently we came to a brilliantly
lighted house, where we stopped for the night,
as it was now too late to go over to Buenaven-
tara. The owners of the house made me wel-
come, and gave me a place to hang my ham-
mock, telling me I was fortunate to have es-
caped the soldiers, who were out looking for a
party of revolutionists supposed to be hiding
among the islands.
I was fortunate in many ways. I was out of
the hands of my rascally men, was in sight of
Buenaventara, and just as I was getting in my
hammock the rain came on, a torrent of water
that was almost beyond belief, and, well satis-
fied that I had a roof over my head, I presently
fell asleep and rested thoroughly till the morn-
ing.
I had now nothing to do but cross the bay,
and reach the highway of travel again. At
Buenaventara I found fair accommodations,
and passed a week while waiting for a steamer.
My men were allowed to go unpunished,
though I could have given them a good lesson,
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
because, when I told of my unpleasant experi-
ence, the authorities were anxious to punish them
severely, but I had given my word that I would
not have them punished if they took me on, and
that was enough ; they were allowed to go free.
214
AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XX.
ACROSS PANAMA
We drew in sight of Panama City after two
days, and as we sailed into the anchorage I found
that the most notable among the ships were two
steamers flying the Chilian flag, attesting the
progress and energy of that far-away republic,
from whose shores the finest steamers at Panama
had come; ships which one day or other, when
the canal is opened, will be trading even to our
Atlantic seaports.
The water off^ Panama was not very attract-
ive, and had an uncertain colour of mud and
seaweed, such as one might notice among shal-
low lagoons of the North. Off* the harbour were
groups of rather barren-looking islands, and
on either side of the city the low shores of the
Isthmus lay flat and uninviting. To the north
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
we saw low mountains, and to the south distant
ranges of somewhat greater elevation.
When we arrived at our anchorage the tide
was out, and extensive mud-flats and coral rocks
barred the way to the city. After a time, the
mighty flood of the tides in the Pacific turned,
setting in toward the land, and presently a num-
ber of barges came out to the steamer. Our
baggage was dumped into the largest with but
little ceremony, and we scrambled after it, a
strange company of passengers, — Spanish-
Americans of good position, now tumbled and
dirty from the efl^ects of seasickness, too much
depressed to care how they looked ; negro la-
bourers with their wives and children, all con-
tented and happy, too careless to even think
of their clothes; stolid Indians serving their
masters, their indiff*erence a sharp contrast to
the eagerness of the others ; a group of Chi-
nese, chattering together, their excitement tell-
ing of their interest ; and a number of Americans
from the North, thinking they ought to be
given precedence in such a company, and not
getting it.
On reaching the docks we hurried out of the
barges, and were immediately surrounded by
216
AND ACROSS PANAMA
would-be servitors. We were in the land of
sharks, both water and land sharks ; the Span-
iards knew how to treat them, cursed the sharks,
gave their baggage to their servants, and
marched off. I liked that proceeding, and so
cursed the sharks myself; they fell back; but
I had no servant, and sat down on my baggage
while the sharks looked on from a respectful
distance. Then they laughed at me; so did
I, — what else could be done ? I was caught,
and it was better to laugh than to scold. The
sharks took the hint, rushed in, and the next
instant a straggling parade set out for the
hotel, — baggage, specimen-cases, personal ef-
fects, — all carried by a rough company of
porters, while a crowd of small boys brought
up the rear, struggling among themselves for
the honour of carrying an old newspaper and
my umbrella. It was not good for the news-
paper, and my umbrella was of no further use
after they had finished with it. We reached
the hotel, and I paid up. When all was settled,
I did not have any money to spend in Panama
that night. Then a little boy came gravely in,
bringing me a bit of paper, for the carriage of
which from the dock to the hotel he now de-
2f7
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
manded payment. I gave him a trifle, to re-
ward his splendid effrontery; he ran out, and
immediately another boy appeared, he, too,
bringing me a bit of newspaper. Unfortu-
nately newspaper is plenty, and so are boys.
I saw I was up against it, and fled ignominiously
to my room. Panama was too much for me.
The day following I was out early, looking
about the city, a place where there was not much
of interest. The sun was burning hot, the air
damp, and even the walls of the buildings
seemed to be perspiring. I found the streets
full of people, and everywhere there was a sense
of activity, diff^erent from what one usually ex-
pects in a Spanish- American city. There were
many little shops where curios were off*ered to
tempt travellers ; all the specimens, I was sol-
emnly assured, came from the country, or from
the ocean near Panama, the great variety attest-
ing the diversity of the soils and the products
of the Isthmus. I found cheap Mexican opals,
such as I have purchased in New York at three
dollars per hundred, here off^ered for three dol-
lars each, and called Panama stones; there
were gypsum (selenite) heads from Canada,
called here country pearls; there were Indian
218
AND ACROSS PANAMA
curios from Birmingham, England; fancy arti-
cles from Connecticut; in fact, material from
all parts of the world, which travellers, as they
hurried through the city, bought at extrava-
gant prices, under the assurance that they were
obtaining rare specimens of the varied prod-
ucts of the Isthmus of Panama. For myself,
I did not buy, and became unpopular at once,
but it was interesting to watch the shopkeepers
do the travellers, and they certainly were an
easy lot ; but then, they wanted to secure sou-
venirs of Panama, and took kindly to curios
from Birmingham and other places, and did
not really object to paying from ten to one
hundred times the value for their purchases;
but then, the specimens all came from the Isth-
mus, at least so the travellers thought, and all
were happy, even the shopkeepers.
Panama lives on the travellers ; so it has been
for years, so it always will be, unless the canal
should be lost to the Isthmus; which all who
know the disputed routes sincerely hope will not
be the case, for the advantages of the Panama
route are clear and convincing. But what a
fine time the sharks will have when once the
work is established.
^19
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
These same sharks now gathered about me,
offering all sorts of specimens, or urging unre-
quired services. I soon tired of it all; there
was nothing of real interest in the city, so I
took one of the slow trains across the Isthmus
for Colon, hoping to have a good view of the
canal workings. There was not much to be seen,
however; only surface work had been done,
though much earth had been removed, and
the whole length of the canal was clearly de-
fined, — a great ditch extending almost across
the Isthmus, and at some places opened to con-
siderable depth. Not much work was being
done, though a little digging was in progress.
The splendid machinery all along the route
attested the millions which had been spent, and
the fact that most of the machinery remained
without care, exposed to the damp, destructive
climate of Panama, was evidence of the careless
methods which mark all that has been done on
the canal up to the present time.
Crossing the Isthmus even on a slow train
does not take very long. On the way there
were not any attractive places, and everywhere
one notices the marks of the beaten track, and
surely no route is more frequented than that of
S20
AND ACROSS PANAMA
Panama. From the car window one sees low
hills, where the forests have been cut down, and
the tangled growth of shrub, climbing vines,
trees and palms has taken their place; a
tangled, matted growth, struggling, as it were,
among themselves for the mastery, the whole
clinging and dragging each on the other, and
not attaining the sublimity of the primeval for-
ests of the tropics. The stations where one
stops are small, and there is little of interest;
the people are a patchwork of cast-off clothing,
remnants of the passing crowd of travellers.
There is little of real interest, and when one
reaches Colon it is with a feeling of relief, for
the ride has not been very comfortable, and the
country has been disappointing ; one has crossed
Panama, but one has not seen the grandeur of
the American tropics.
At Colon the question of reaching a hotel
with all one's baggage, and at least a part of
one's money, is of serious importance. Here
the sharks are mostly black, and when I left
the train they looked me over and prepared for
bloodletting, but I was ready for them this time ;
specimen-cases and baggage were checked at
the station, and I retained only three hand-bags,
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
containing what I would need during my brief
stay on the Isthmus. The black men were dis-
appointed, and urged long and earnestly the
danger of leaving my effects with the railway
and steamship agent; but I had some use for
what silver I carried, and so left my things. I
allowed a big negro to put my things on a hand-
truck, and take them three blocks to a hotel. I
expected to stand twenty-five cents gold for
each bag, a total of about two dollars and forty
cents in their silver, or at the rate of some
eighty cents silver per minute for his services ;
but on arriving at the hotel, he demanded three
dollars gold, about three dollars and twenty
cents per minute in his money. This did seem
to be rubbing it in too hard, but I gave him
half of what he claimed, and told him if he
wanted the balance he should make an appeal
to the Alcalde, the head magistrate of the town.
This he did, with all assurance, and I had a
small lawsuit on my hands, a circumstance in
which I found considerable interest, for I wished
to see how the baggage-sharks were treated.
The Alcalde gave little heed to what I had to
say; the negroes were threatening, and quite a
crowd had collected, and the Alcalde was evi-
222
AND ACROSS PANAMA
dently afraid of them, for he gave a hasty
decision in their favour, and directed that I
should pay the money immediately. I had given
them half of what they claimed, and now offered
to pay the balance, but no, they must have the
whole amount which had been awarded to them;
and so a second dispute arose, and I was ordered
to pay the whole claim, and I did so, feeling
rather indignant at this example of " justice "
on the Isthmus of Panama; but I was through
with the sharks, for a time at least, and now
went about my own affairs.
Colon is a city of sheds and board houses.
There is one main street where there are a few
large stores ; the city has several side streets
where the houses are on stilts, and just beyond
the city there are swamps, where mosquitoes
reign supreme.
Bloodletting is the common practice, from the
mosquitoes which infest the air to the children
who seek contributions in the streets, the bag-
gage-sharks who haunt the stations and wharves,
and even to the leading merchants, who sell
spurious curiosities, and smilingly do the trav-
ellers for what can be obtained. Also the watch-
223
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
ful officials, ever on the lookout for the main
chance.
All this is typical of the lowlands of tropical
America. In the mountain parts it is frequently
different; an incident will illustrate. Once,
when I was stopping at Madellin, in Colombia,
a little bootblack made himself useful, and re-
ceived fairly liberal tips for running errands
and generally guarding my interests, as well as
keeping my shoes clean. One evening, as I was
going to dinner, he came running up to me, a
broad smile on his face, and in his hand three
cactus figs rolled up in a bit of paper. The
package was thrust into my hand, and the boy
started for the door, as if he were in a hurry
to get away. I called him, so that I might give
some little gratuity, but he only shouted back,
" No, no, they are not for money ; they are for
you," and then he bolted out the door and was
away in the streets. At dinner I was told that
the fruit was really choice, and long out of
season, and every one wondered that the boy had
found some, saying that he must have climbed
for hours among the mountains trying to obtain
them. This happened in the breezy interior
uplands among the mountains, where a race of
224
AND ACROSS PANAMA
people is growing up strong in body, of healthy
morals, an honour to themselves now, and who
will one day become a power in the world. They
are different indeed from the cringing, swin-
dling, unhealthy, mixed-breed weaklings of the
lowlands, people who cause our ideas to be some-
what unfavourable in regard to everything
Spanish- American.
Here at Colon I found the usual population
of the coast, their dispositions somewhat more
unpleasant than usual, with their clutch at one's
purse-strings for ever grasping and impulsive.
225
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER XXL
THE INDIANS AND RESOURCES OF PANAMA
I FOUND at Panama a rich country, where
agricultural opportunities are attractive and
mineral wealth is abundant.
Panama is everywhere accessible to the water,
and as a consequence the principal roads are
to the coast, and little trading-ships are numer-
ous, for the ways of communication are princi-
pally by water. Wherever a stream is found
available for canoes, they are used, though,
except on the Silsola River, on the northern
boundary, and on the streams about the Chiri-
qui Lagoon, there is but little canoe travel.
Panama is reputed the most unhealthy of all
places in the American tropics, a natural infer-
ence because the route of travel has sought the
lowest divide for crossing the Isthmus, and low
lands in the tropics are unhealthy; particularly
226
AND ACROSS PANAMA
where there are swamps, as at Colon, and great
exposures of marine drift when the tide falls, as
at Panama City. These places are unhealthy,
and their reputation is well deserved, but after
leaving the depressions between the two sea-
ports one finds a better country, where the lands
are rich, and the climate reasonably favourable.
The Chiriqui Lagoon is considered a health re-
sort, and among the interior mountains I have
found many desirable regions, though the ele-
vations are rather abrupt, because the rock
formations disintegrate easily, and erosion has
been rapid; hence one finds steep mountain-
sides, deep valleys, coastal plains of eroded ma-
terial, and swamps. Among the mountains the
air is temperate, and all the surroundings de-
lightful. In the deep valleys there is intense
heat and poisoned air. Oh the coastal plains,
wherever there is good drainage and an open
sweep of the trade- winds, the climate is delight-
ful, though hot, and the lands are desirable. In
the swamps, no man can live.
In the northern portions of the Isthmus there
are mountains of considerable elevation. South-
ward these gradually subside to the central de-
pressions where the canal is being seriously
227
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
considered. Farther south the mountains rise
again and become very prominent. If the canal
I goes to Panama, the Isthmus will enjoy some
years of active construction, with large expendi-
tures of money, followed by a great commercial
movement. Lands along the central depressions
are good and fertile, but the climate is unde-
sirable. To the south the inhospitable San Bias
Indians are a dangerous element, so it appears
that the lands most desirable for foreigners are
in the northeastern part of the Isthmus, and that
Boeus del Toro and the Chiriqui Lagoon regions
will be the places from which supplies to feed
the canal labourers will be principally drawn;
though there will be a strong rival some distance
to the eastward in the Sierra Nevada de Santa
Marta Mountains, also a portion of Colombia;
for there everything can be grown, even the
products of the temperate regions of the north,
and from there vessels once loaded can run
directly before the trade-winds into Colon; but
of the lands on the Isthmus, those of the north-
east seem to me the most desirable, and I have
written of them because it may be that presentlj^
many will be going south, and a word in time
may be valuable. Coastal plains, where the
228
AND ACROSS PANAMA
drainage is good, and the winds blow freely,
are desirable; mountainsides, so situated that
products can be easily carried to the sea, are
almost sure to provide a favourable basis for
development; but of the coastal plains where
water is stagnant and the trade-winds are weak,
of the rich alluvials bordering on swamps, and
of the deep, hot valleys, beware, — even the In-
dians avoid them.
Of all that I saw in northeastern Panama,
the primeval tropical forests at the base of the
mountains were most impressive. There one
steps from a canoe to the shore, pushes aside a
rank growth of reeds and plants, struggles
through them for a little distance, reaches a
wall of green foliage, lifts an overhanging
bough, scrambles under, and the world is shut
out; the traveller stands in shadow-land and
silence. Strange, dim butterflies go wavering
in and out among a dense growth of ferns and
tender plants which could not endure the sun,
giant trees form as it were columns for an ex-
pansive roof of green, and everywhere the gray
trunks of slender trees reach upward till their
branches find the sunlight far above, and their
naked stems seem like a slender tracery pendant
229
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
from the upper roof of green. A tangled,
matted growth it is, dimbing vines festooned
among the trees, deep shadows, here and there
a bit of glowing sunlight, and mysterious depths
ever opening out as one presses forward. Such
are the primeval forests of the tropics, and no-
where can they be seen to better advantage than
at northeastern Panama.
That the Isthmus has many desirable places
is evidenced by the Indian tribes who have long
made it their chosen home. In the north there
are the Chiriqui tribes, Indians who make pot-
tery and have better methods in their system of
living than many of the Central American tribes.
In the mountains of the interior there are other
Indians, who much resemble the Talamanca
people of Costa Rica, but who are at bitter
enmity with them. My visits to the country
occupied by these Indians were not long enough
to learn much of their customs. In appearance,
they have a general resemblance to the Indian
races found through Central America, from the
coastal plains and forests of Honduras, south-
ward to the depression of hills, and to the
swamps and lowlands between Colon and Pan-
ama.
230
AND ACROSS PANAMA
South of this depression are the San Bias
Indians, with whom my acquaintance is also
limited. Their appearance indicates a race dif-
ferent from the Indians living along the coast
farther north. The San Bias men have stronger
features and more character in their faces.
Traders who have frequently been along their
coast tell me that their morals and methods of
living are a credit to them, and I was told that
their word in a trade was good even to their
own disadvantage. Once given, their word
would not be broken.
I was told that their chief had stated, when
talking of their tribal legends, that white men
and gold were the two curses of the Indians, and
because of them their ancestors had long ago
come as fugitives across the deadly swamps to
the south, and had settled among their isolated
mountains where neither white men nor gold
could come.
I was told that the chief had said that for-
merly they were a great people, and that their
two principal cities were called Quito and Ca-
racas, and that between those cities there had
been a great country inhabited by many In-
dians, and there was much gold. Then the
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
white men came, and the gold brought trouble,
and finally his ancestors went away, crossing
the mountains, swamps, and rivers, till they
should find a country so far distant that the
white enemy could not find them, and where
gold could not be had. This is a legend. I
did not hear it from the Indians myself; but
several traders corroborated the story, and all
attested the strange determination by which the
San Bias Indians maintain that death is pref-
erable to the presence of white strangers. One
thing is certain, no white man can live in the
San Bias country. These Indians will trade
any of their products, so long as the traders
sleep in their ships, and come ashore only when
invited; but let the trader speak of gold, and
they will all leave, assuring the trader that there
is none in their country, and that he had better
go somewhere else.
Little is known of the San Bias country, and
it is said that their mountains are rich in gold
and that other minerals are abundant. This is
more than probable, for those mountains are
directly in the line of the chain of gold deposits,
which, beginning in Alaska, continue southward,
through California, across Mexico, Central
232
AND ACROSS PANAMA
America, and Panama, and thence on southward
far away into the Andean ranges. Yet it is
probable that the legends of gold in the San
Bias country are exaggerated, for exaggeration
has always an undisputed field where the country
is unknown.
It is related that a party of Colombians from
Cartagena, attracted by the rich agricultural
lands of the San Bias country, started a colony
there, settling on the shores of a convenient har-
bour on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus ; but on
the first night, bands of Indians attacked them,
and killed all but one, who, after being tortured,
was sent back to Cartagena with his ears cut off,
as an example to all who thought of visiting
the San Bias country. The story continues that
the government of Colombia sent soldiers to
chastise the Indians, but the soldiers too were
killed, except one who was captured, and who,
after being tortured, was sent with his ears cut
off as a present to the President of Colombia,
with a warning that so all his soldiers would be
treated if they came to the San Bias country.
This was long ago, and since then that coun-
try and its Indians have been left to their own
devices. Along the San Bias coast there are
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numerous islands where the finest cocoanuts are
grown, forming the principal article of com-
merce sought by the traders who visit that
country.
When I saw these islands, I was simply sail-
ing past them, for the Indians were not friendly
to a complete stranger, and it was thought best
not to stop. I was much impressed with the
productiveness of those islands, and the lands
beyond them looked attractive, but between the
Indians of that country and white men is a bar-
rier, and I have no information of what may be
hidden behind their cocoanut plantations and
the islands along their coast.
234
AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XXII.
PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES FOR THE ISTH-
MIAN CANAL
While crossing the Isthmus of Panama I
became thoroughly convinced that this was the
most favourable route for a canal. One easily
obtains such an impression from the proximity
of the two oceans, for at Panama the extremes
of the world meet at a narrow divide. The
Pacific Ocean ebbs and flows, piling up a mighty
tide of waters, rising and rising, a flood that
comes as if there were to be no ending, at some
places even turning fresh-water rivers backward
on their course for miles inland; and then the
tide subsiding, a mighty rush of waters turns
again to the ocean; nor is the outward flow
checked till great stretches of mud and rock
are uncovered, where but a short time before
had been water deep enough for vessels to sail
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
undisturbed. On the other side of the Isthmus
are the waters of the Caribbean, where the tides
are scarcely noticed, and the appearances are as
different as the waters of one side of the earth
can be from the waters of the other side.
At Nicaragua these conditions are not so
impressive, for between the shifting sands at
Graytown and the Pacific there is a large stretch
of country, a route of travel occupying some
days, so that one is impressed with difficulties
and distances, and wonders at the engineering
skill which could plan a waterway to accommo-
date ocean-going vessels for so great a distance ;
but travelling between Colon and Panama one
sees the two oceans within a few hours, and feels
how close one is to the other, and thinks how
natural that a canal should be planned to cut
the hills which separate them.
Once when I was making some examinations
on the borderlands of Costa Rica and Nica-
ragua, I stood on an elevated ridge where I
could see all the proposed route for the eastern
portion of the Nicaragua Canal. I saw before
me a vast stretch of country, treacherous low-
lands such as I have learned to dread, and I
imagined the strange appearance a great ship
236
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
would make, passing on among the dense wood-
lands, should the canal be constructed over that
route, and I could not but think of the cost of
maintenance. I have had to deal with the prob-
lem so frequently in the tropics, where earth-
works do not resist as they do at the North;
and I wondered how many times the banks of
the canal would be washed down in such a coun-
try by the sudden floods which come so often
in the tropics, and from where I stood it seemed
that all the water of that great basin would
wash toward the proposed canal route. And
I wondered if a great dam could be continuously
maintained, for the soil is eroded of recent ma-
terial from the surrounding volcanic ranges,
and is lightly packed. The proposed lake would
cover a great area, and at places its banks would
be little more than low divides, which, it seemed
to me, would afford but unstable retaining pow-
ers where floods would chafe to find an outlet.
The soil is easily eroded, and the fierce storms,
all too frequent in that country, might readily
supply the force, and at some unexpected point
erosion might form an outlet, and suddenly the
waters of the lake might subside, doing incal-
culable harm.
237
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
Nor is maintenance the only difficulty, and
surely the Panama route has its share of main-
tenance problems, only the problems do not con-
tinue over so great a distance as at Nicaragua.
There are shifting sands at Graytown, but at
Colon there is quiet water. At Graytown there
is the full force of the waves which are contin-
ually washing against the shore. What a seri-
ous impediment to navigation, and what wrecks
will strew that shore if the canal goes to Nica-
ragua, for the entrance could be but compara-
tively narrow; surely a ship would require skil-
ful handling to make safe entrance during
rough weather. At Colon a rowboat could go
safely on a pleasant excursion in and out of the
canal entrance.
Graytown has one advantage, a great advan-
tage over Colon, it is among the healthiest of
places in the tropics, because it is built on a
series of sand deposits, which have been formed
seaward one after the other, and the place is
open to the full sweep of the trade-winds ; but
back of Graytown is a swampy country extend-
ing a long distance inland. Advocates of the
Nicaragua route contend that these swamps are
healthful, but I have never seen a healthful
AND ACROSS PANAMA
swamp in the tropics, and I have seen a goodly
number of them; one can live in such regions
for a time, but once let extensive excavations
be undertaken, and the swamps will give an
account of themselves. There is another seri-
ous question to be considered in regard to the
Nicaragua route: it lies between two ranges
of mountains where there are volcanoes, dor-
mant it is true, but still giving indications
ominous of what might be. In Costa Rica,
one called Poas at the western end of the range
is still steaming. In the crater of another,
Irazu, directly overshadowing the proposed
route, water has risen up and disappeared
again, an instance carefully explained by my
guide when I ascended that mountain, and
spent some time examining the crater. Across
the broad valley the ancient volcanoes of Nica-
ragua are all dormant, but frequently myste-
rious rumblings are heard among them. Can
any one say surely that these volcanoes are
dead?
As I stood looking across the eastern portion
of the proposed Nicaragua route, I felt a slight
tremor under my feet, so slight it might have
been only a fancy, then came a faint rumbling,
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
and my guide said, " Hear the Nicaragua moun-
tains growling at us. A storm is coming."
I asked him if this sign was sure, and he
said that when rumbhng sounds came from the
mountains in Nicaragua a storm could be ex-
pected, that they did growl sometimes in dry
weather, but they usually made the most noise
when the rainy season first began, so people
associated them with rain. Surely those are
ominous features, and one's spirit trembles at
the thought of what might be, should those vol-
canoes again become active. In Costa Rica is a
range of volcanoes, one of which at the extreme
western elevation is still steaming, the others
standing like gaunt sentinels, their cinder cones
raised high in the air, barren and desolate, over-
looking a broad valley; and on the northern
side of this valley is a series of mountains
from among which rumbling sounds come so
frequently that people living along the south-
ern edge of the valley listen with indifference,
remarking only that rain is coming; and
through this valley the construction of a great
interoceanic canal has been seriously, and even
earnestly advocated.
I was so deeply impressed with the difficulties
240
1
AND ACROSS PANAMA
and dangers of the Nicaragua route that I said
to friends, on returning to the coast, that no
canal would be built at Nicaragua until the
political difficulties which stood in the way of a
reasonable treaty with Colombia had been con-
sidered in all their features, and were found
to make it impossible that a canal should be
undertaken at the Panama route.
In Colon I was asked for my opinion over and
over again, for at the time of my visit it looked
as though the Nicaragua route would be selected
for this great enterprise; and when I went
away, common report had it that in Nicaragua
there was a valley of fire surrounded with blaz-
ing volcanoes, and that I had seen it, — a good
example of Spanish-American exaggeration.
Ml
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER XXHI.
HUNTING roa GOLD IN ANTIOQUIA
From Colon I took a steamer bound for Sa-
venilla, the seaport of Barranquilla, Colombia,
where I arrived in two or three days, and im-
mediately began preparations for a journey to
the gold regions of Antioquia.
I found Barranquilla a city of activity, sand,
dust, fleas, and pretensions; but for all that,
it is one of the coming places in Spanish Amer-
ica, and has so much to expect from the future
that it would be difficult to set a limit to the
growth and development which may be here ex-
pected; for all the great waterways of Colom-
bia lead to this city near the mouth of the
Magdalena. After a few days at Barranquilla,
I took passage on one of the numerous river
steamers, and was presently making my way up
the muddy waters of the Magdalena. The
steamer was crowded, the day burning hot, and
242
A
AND ACROSS PANAMA
the succession of monotonous appearing swamps
and low meadows was most uninteresting. Mud-
banks, sand-bars, and dead trees were frequently
passed; alligators, herons, and aquatic bifds
were in abundance; and on either side of the
river the lowlands, swamps, and lagoons spread
out for miles. A most unhealthful region, where
foreigners can hardly expect to find lands suited
to them, though many people native to these
lowlands do well in this country. After a few
days' travelling, the steamer reached Puerto
Barrio, and there I left her to take the road
overland to Madellen, and on this road I found
inconveniences abundantly, in some places even
sorrows, for the chinch-bug was ever present,
and the nights were passed as a delirium rather
than as a time of rest and sleep.
This was Antioquia, a region endowed by
every resource of nature, from mineral wealth
to agricultural products. The people in the
uplands are a strong, vigorous race, fine-looking
and intelligent, but shrewd and rather hard in
their dealings. The mountainsides and fertile
valleys of their country are well occupied, and
most of the best places are taken up. Travel-
ling on their principal road to the capital, Ma-
M2
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
dellen, one passes over the mountain ridges,
follow then the road into deep, rich valleys,
where all the surroundings are a delight to the
eye ; but at night, when one stops at the road-
houses, there are chinch-bugs and torture. I
will never forget a night when a travelling com-
panion took me to one of the smallest of these
places, where all the family worked, ate, and
slept in a single room; here he sat up nearly
all the night talking boisterously, and a group
of women at one side of the room told their
beads continuously, a singsong drone varied
with long, loud petitions for material benefits.
Apparently they proposed to keep on praying
all the night, and the chinch-bugs in droves and
hosts came attacking me as I lay helpless on a
rough bed, finding sleep impossible, and wonder-
ing why I could have been such a fool as to come
to the tropics. There was no sleep that night,
and when morning came I was a mass of blister-
ing bites and blood-marks from the attacks of
the chinch-bugs, and found myself in a state of
irritated fever. Fortunately I reached Madellen
that day, and found better quarters, where,
under the influence of fine air and clean food,
I was soon myself again.
^ 244
AND ACROSS PANAMA
I stopped for a time in the city, making vari-
ous excursions from there to examine mines in
different places, among them the strange, deep
valleys where rivers have eroded almost to sea-
level, bringing, all the while, gold-dust down
from the surrounding mountains, to be collected
in the low valleys, where the streams at flood
overflow their banks, and then quickly subside
again, leaving behind them mud and decaying
vegetable material to fester in the sun. This
poisons the air to such an extent that none can
remain in those valleys without contracting dan-
gerous fevers.
After attending to such matters as claimed
my attention at Madellen, I engaged mules, and
with a guide started over the mountains for a
place called Zaragoza. At first all went well,
then one day I was attacked with a violent fever,
such as I had never known. I stopped at a
road-house, where good fortune followed me;
the place was clean, and was presided over by
a kind woman, who, seeing my condition, gave
me every attention, in fact, better care I could
not have had; but in spite of her efforts the
fever kept mounting higher; such remedies as
I had were of no avail, and matters were be-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
coming serious. Medical aid could not be had
except by sending miles away, and grave faces
were gathered about me, when, to the surprise of
everybody, one of the most noted physicians of
Madellen came passing that way, a providential
aid for me; he came just at the critical hour,
passing the house where I lay, on his road to
visit a coffee plantation he owned, not having
seen or been that way since two years, and now
visiting it for the last time, for he intended
never to come again. My good hostess ran
eagerly to call him, and as he came in the room
I realized I was to be in good hands. A hurried
examination, and he sent my man galloping
away for medicines, and in about two hours I
was being put through a course of heroic treat-
ment, — first, emetics for two hours, during
which I drank quarts of water to assist the ac-
tion; after this there was a course of purging,
so violent that it seemed scarcely endurable,
but the treatment effected a cure, and the next
day I was told [that I had suffered an attack of
malignant fever, a malady so dangerous that
it frequently kills in twelve to twenty-four hours.
Truly the physician had come only just in time.
After a day or two, I resumed my journey, and
£46
AND ACROSS PANAMA
presently found myself on a road which for
mud, difficult passes, and utter abandonment
was equal to anything I had ever seen. It led
me through unhealthful regions, and I fre-
quently noticed a nameless wayside grave, some-
times a group of them, mute testimony to the
struggles which others had endured on this
awful road. I kept pushing on, while touches
of the fever came returning at times, and as
I continued from day to day the thought was
ever in my mind, would my end be a nameless
wayside grave along that desolate road.^^ By
struggling on, I arrived at Zaragoza weak and
tired, and there had another attack of fever, but
knowing how to treat it, I was soon well again ;
and I can recommend to all travellers in the
tropics to carry strong emetics, active purga-
tive medicines, and quinine. If a fever is taken
in time, there is Httle danger. Begin with an
emetic, and let it be thorough, helping the ac-
tion by abundant drafts of warm water, then
take a purge, and a big one to act quickly, after
that take large doses of quinine for a few days.
From Zaragoza I made canoe trips to vari-
ous gold mines, and then went down the Nachi
and Cauca Rivers, chancing it to find canoes for
247
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the way. It was a rather doubtful experiment,
but a merchant who was travelling with me said
we would certainly find canoes going from place
to place; and in this we were successful, though
our necessities brought us strange travelling
companions. Sometimes we went with a group
of labourers who were seeking work, at others
we travelled with merchants who peddled goods
from their canoes, and sometimes we went along
with cargoes of produce which had been gathered
from the woodlands and jungles. We met with
rough, irresponsible people who travelled as they
fancied, were happy on any provision, and
went their way drinking and gambling, cursing
or murdering, as moved by the occasion. Alone
I would have had a sorry time with them, but
my companion was a merchant of influence, and
affairs went favourably. One day a peddhng
merchant who was carrying us on the Cauca
River stopped at a little settlement, and there
began drinking. Soon he was intoxicated, and
then presented us with his canoe, and ordered
his men to take us on our way. We were glad
of an excuse to go, and proposed to leave the
canoe at the next stopping-place in charge of
the owner's son, who was going on with us.
^48
AND ACROSS PANAMA
Without any delay, we pushed ofF from the
shore, and, congratulating ourselves on our
good fortune, went floating away down the
muddy waters of the Cauca.
We had not gone far, however, when the man,
now delirious with rum, started in pursuit,
shouting for us to stop. This we tried to avoid,
and endeavoured to keep ahead of him, think-
ing he would follow to the next stopping-place ;
but presently he plunged into the river, intent
on swimming to the canoe in which we were trav-
elling. We hurried to his assistance, and he
clambered on board intent on vengeance. In
drunken frenzy he seized a knife and made an
attack upon my companion, but one of the boat-
men, by a clever tipping of the canoe, sent him
headlong into the water again. Then he grap-
pled the side of the canoe, and we towed him
to land, not without some diiBculty, for he was
determined to climb in again, which we all decid-
edly opposed. Fortunately, when we reached
the shore, he was exhausted, and then we left
him and his turbulent crew to quarrel, drink, and
murder if they wished ; while we, taking an-
other canoe from a landing near by, went float-
M9
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
ing away on the deep, muddy waters of the Rio
Cauca.
In a day or two more we reached the Mag-
dalena, and there found a stream whieh took us
directly to Barranquilla. It was in the height
of the dry season, and all the country for miles
about the city looked dead and desolate, naked
trees and withered grass, dust on everything,
under a burning and indistinct sky.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XXIV.
A CANOE VOYAGE IN THE OPEN SEA
I WAS not sorry to take the first opportunity
to leave Barranquilla, though really it is a most
desirable place, and shortly after my arrival I
started for the eastern part of the country, be-
ginning my journey with a canoe voyage across
the swamps and lagoons to the eastward of
Barranquilla. We were to have started at eight
p. M. I was the guest of the owners, and came
to the canoe promptly, but the men did not
appear, and when at last they did come, it was
well on toward morning, and then a most un-
pleasant journey was commenced. The swamps
were full of mosquitoes, mud-banks, and stag-
nant water; but there was very little vegeta-
tion, only rank ferns, reeds, and mangrove-
trees, and one wearied of the monotony; then
the men were drunken and ugly ; the owners of
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the canoe had not told them they were to take
a passenger, and my presence was not pleasing
to them. First they demanded various sums
of me, and then decided the best thing was to
throw me overboard. We were now in a broad
lagoon, and the prospect was not alluring, but
fortunately my pistol was ready, and com-
manded some respect, though it is a difficult
thing to control drunken men. A white man
was in charge of the canoe, but he was as drunk
as his men, and the affairs were becoming rather
unpleasant. Presently the men began quarrel-
ling among themselves ; one struck another a
heavy blow on the head with his paddle, split-
ting the scalp, and knocking him overboard.
We all thought he was killed, but, on dragging
him into the canoe, found he was not much in-
jured, though for a time he was insensible.
This incident had a quieting influence, and now
there was not so much trouble, probably because
about that time the supply of rum gave out,
and we reached our destination in safety. I
am told that after I left the party the quarrel
broke out again with the first supply of rum,
and that two of my late companions were killed.
I make it a rule when travelling not to allow
252
AND ACROSS PANAMA
any rum in the party, and usually make good
progress, but I was only a guest while crossing
the swamps, and so could not forbid the supply
of liquor. I was now at a place called Le
Siennega, and saw a great lagoon stretching
westward as far as the eye could reach; about
me an open sand-plain, where there were thorn-
bushes, acacia, and cactus plants; and to the
eastward the lofty ranges of the Sierra Nevada
de Santa Marta, their sunburnt sides covered
with trees naked in the dry season, and, to all
appearances, withering away or quite dead.
From here a railway took me to Santa Marta,
a picturesque little place at the base of the
mountains, where there is a good harbour, and
desirable coffee lands among the hills and valleys
back of the city. It was important that I should
not remain here long, yet there were no means of
continuing my journey, nor would there be for
some weeks. This would never do, and I searched
earnestly for an opportunity. Fortunately,
some Indians were living near Santa Marta,
making their livings by deep-sea fishing. They
were used to the water, and I asked them if they
could not take me out to sea and then along
the coast in one of their big canoes. The leader
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
said, " Yes, but you know what will happen if
the wind blows."
" Yes, I know."
" We are not afraid, if you are not."
I was not afraid, or, rather, there was a
reason so urgent that I felt the risk was re-
quired, that I might prevent the loss of certain
properties for the people I was representing;
so I made a bargain with the Indians, and we
would start that night when the moon came up.
There was no weakening on the part of the
Indians. They said they would go, and they
were ready on the minute, — a characteristic of
these people which all must respect; but, un-
fortunately, this is little understood by white
men, and hence there is endless contention where
Indians are employed. If an Indian says he
will, he can be relied on exactly to the last de-
tail. A white man says he will, and the Indians
expect him to be exact to the last moment in
time, the last cent in money, and the last frac-
tion of an ounce in goods ; but an hour's delay,
a mistake in accounts, and their confidence is
lost ; be a day late, and enemies will be found
where friends were expected, but be exact to the
minute, the pennyweight, and the letter, and
254
AND ACROSS PANAMA
your men are your enthusiastic friends and
faithful servants to the last extremity. Another
mistake is to urge them too much to promise
what they are doubtful of rendering. They will
undertake it for you, but not under their word,
and then results are doubtful. I sometimes
think they would rather fail just to prove that
they were right and you were wrong.
But to return to my journey. I was with
the Indians, and they had said they would take
me. Everything was ready at the moment.
Without a word the Indians loaded the canoe,
and we were presently making our way steadily
toward the open sea. As the canoe was paddled
rapidly across the still waters of the harbour,
I felt secure in all that endurance and faith-
fulness could do to take me safely to my jour-
ney's end. In a few moments, we were out in
the open sea ; the mountains stood a bold,
gloomy outline to the south, and to the north
there was the broad expanse of the open sea,
great waves and troubled waters furrowing its
surface. All along the coast there were
cliffs, and the mighty waves crashed against
them repeatedly, and subsided; a moment of
quiet, and then the repeated breaking of an-
255
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
other series of waves, — about us the night was
damp and heavy. No one spoke; the naked
Indians bent resolutely to their oars, and truly
it required all their force to make headway.
It was a fine night, only a gentle breeze was
blowing, and presently we were making good
progress; but as morning commenced to dawn
the chief looked somewhat anxious; presently
the wind would come; we must reach a bight
among the cliffs, and he urged his men, but
they knew as well as he, and bent with all their
force. We were still some distance from our
haven, and, as the light grew stronger, puffs
of wind began to scud across the water, not
very strong at first, but occasionally a puff
would come with sudden, ominous force. The
men worked as I had never seen men work be-
fore, untiring, forceful; and the great canoe
went steadily on and on, but the wind was ever
increasing. As the day grew in light, I could
see that the naked legs of the Indians had been
chafed through by the rough boards on which
they sat, and that blood was dripping, but still
they worked on, and made no sign of complaint.
At times I thought the wind would surely drive
us on the rocks; twice I offered to help row,
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but the chief bade me sit still, and I have
learned to do as the Indians direct; they will
not tolerate interference; directions once given
will be carried out in their own way to the end ;
so I watched the great waves beat against the
cliffs, which one moment were covered with foam
and spray, dashing upward many feet, and the
next instant would be naked, and looking invit-
ingly harmless, only to be covered again with
beating waves and foam as the waters broke
against them with crashing, ominous sounds.
We were fortunate to round a point of rocks
successfully, the most dangerous place on our
voyage, and just beyond found smoother water
where better headway could be made, and pres-
ently we were camping for the day on a sand-
beach in a bight among the rocks, the tired
Indians throwing themselves on the ground to
rest, but with no sign or word of complaint.
The day passed pleasantly, and when evening
came we went on again, and so for three days.
The Indians worked faithfully, and brought me
in good time to my destination ; then, according
to their custom, they turned back again with
scarcely a word. They had done as they agreed,
and simply went their way.
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CHAPTER XXV.
THE SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA MOUN-
TAINS
The Indians had brought me to a little town
called Dibulla, where I completed titles to a
great quantity of mineral lands for the com-
pany I represented, and then began a series of
explorations.
First I examined the base of the mountains,
and one day, accompanied by a number of men,
I was working on a rolling savannah where the
ground had a rather favourable appearance for
coal. As we went about among the hills, we
jumped a deer from a clump of bushes and tall
grass. It ran in great fright for a long dis-
tance, and then stood still where we could just
see it, much too far away for a shot. I tried,
however, pointing my rifle about ten feet up the
wind, and shooting high over my sights; we
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stood an instant watching; the deer put down
its head to feed, then jumped suddenly, and
we could see as the ball struck the bank beyond,
and that it had just grazed the animal's neck.
If it hadn't put its head down to feed, I would
have killed it.
Some of the men said it was hit hard, and
started in pursuit, but they were evidently mis-
taken and soon came back. Then, as we were
returning to the hut, the men were talking it
over, wondering, and still exclaiming at such
a remarkable rifle and such a wonderful shot.
We had no meat in the camp, but next morn-
ing, as I was about starting for the woods,
one of the men ran and brought my rifle, say-
ing as he came, " Never mind ; this will bring
us meat, and plenty of it, before night."
It was a beautiful day, and presently we
started a flock of wild turkeys, and I had the
pleasure of missing in succession three unusually
fine shots at birds sitting perfectly still in the
open branches ; but with such a reputation as
I estabhshed, it was all blamed on the rifle, or
the day, and even the light might have been
deceptive. We went on, and soon fell in with
another flock of turkeys, and I missed four
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shots, which was certainly discouraging; but
when, about three o'clock in the afternoon, I
had missed twenty-seven good shots at turkeys,
my companion said, with many apologies, that
the rifle must have gone wrong in the night,
and, as it would be convenient to have some meat,
perhaps he had better kill the next turkey with
his shotgun ; which he did in a very short time,
securing three without much difficulty. I
thought of the men at camp, and remembered
what they had said, " Never mind ; this will
bring us meat, and plenty of it." I looked at
my rifle; felt like kicking it all the way to the
ocean, and then jumping in after it.
I didn't eat turkey that night; I preferred
fish; and it wasn't very good fish, either; the
fact is, it was rotten fish, but it was better than
turkey.
I tested that rifle a few days later, and found
the sights were in good order, and I regret to
say that from that day to this I have not done
much shooting.
A time passed examining lands and mineral
outcroppings at the base of the mountains made
me eager for a change, and a few days later,
my preparations having been finished, I was
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anxiously waiting for an opportunity to carry
my explorations to the lofty, almost unknown,
regions among the mountains rising just be-
fore me.
I was anxious to start at once, but in Spanish
America the great day is to-morrow, and why
should one hurry when a better day is always
coming? Yet this disposition is most annoying
to travellers, who cannot understand the indo-
lent disposition of the natives; while, for their
part, the natives are firmly convinced that all
foreigners are crazy.
It seemed almost unreasonable that better
progress could not be made, but it was impor-
tant to have animals brought from the moun-
tains, because none others could climb the rough
trails. I was put off from day to day, and
constantly annoyed by new causes for delay.
At last I was informed that the animals had
arrived, or rather, some were passing that way
which I could engage if I wished. I ordered
them at once, and my surprise may be imagined
when three shaggy-coated bulls were driven up
to my door. I was disappointed, but of course
did not want them; I was looking for animals
accustomed to mountain trails.
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" Tiiese are the proper animals," their owner
said ; " only bulls and oxen can go up there ;
two are for your baggage, and one is for you to
ride."
I immediately changed my plans. I wasn't
riding bulls; perhaps I was prejudiced, but
I preferred to walk. I engaged the strongest-
looking animal for a light cargo, and wanted to
start at once; but no, it was late, and the next
day would be Good Friday, a bad day for
travelling, and the men were not willing to go.
By angry persuadings, I at last forced from
them a reluctant consent to start the next morn-
ing, though they assured me we would have
trouble, that it was a bad day, and evil would
surely follow us.
Next morning everything was ready, but the
owner had decided that his bull could not go
out on Good Friday, not because of any respect
for the day, but for fear that some evil might
come to the animal.
Fortunately other bulls had come down from
the mountains, and we secured one that looked
like a fine, big fellow, and started on our way.
But evidently this bull had ideas of its own
about travelling on Good Friday, and we had
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not gone far when he began to rear and plunge,
jumping about with such violence that the cargo
was scattered all over on the ground, and the
pack-saddle broken and trampled to pieces;
then the bull took to the woods and disappeared.
" There," said my bull-driver, " I told you
we could not start to-day; now see what has
happened; we must pack up all the things and
go back to the house."
" Nothing of the kind," I said ; '' go back
and bring another bull."
He looked at me in astonishment. " After
such a warning, the fault is yours ; if you make
us go, the trouble will come to you, not to us.
The Devil is in the woods to-day."
A sharp command, and he hurried away, fol-
lowed by my servant, who was equally aston-
ished at my temerity. After a time, they came
back with a tough-looking little bull, the pack
was rearranged, and we started on again. I
felt a little sinful myself, but with all the feast-
days and rest-days to follow, it seemed best that
I should push on at once.
After we were under way, travelling was
about as usual, and the fears of the men were
overcome to some extent. Our route took us
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down the beach for about six hours, and then
along a trail over low ground toward the moun-
tains. Here, in spite of the day, we were for-
tunate to get across some wet places without
difficulty, though the men predicted every
trouble, and perhaps the loss of the bull and
cargo, because, in spite of my infidelity, the
Devil would surely catch the bull by the legs
and drag him down into the mud; and, if not
this, a snake would come and bite me. Yes, I
might laugh, the Devil was bigger than I
thought; wait, and I would see. But I didn't
see, and, as stated, we passed the mud-holes in
safety. A little further on, we met a party of
men also travelling, and there was a moment
of mutual surprise between them and my men;
then explanations followed, and it appeared that
both parties were travelling from necessity.
One of the men carried a gun, and when my
men asked him if he had shot anything, he re-
plied : " Don't you remember what day it is ?
What's the use of firing? It would be impos-
sible to kill anything."
" True," replied my man, " I had forgotten."
Then we went on again, and a little later got
a shot at some turkeys. I took careful aim,
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
and missed, of course, and I know why: it was
the Devil, and he is in my rifle yet. A little
later we came to a hut at the base of the moun-
tains, and there camped for the night, and noth-
ing happened. But in the morning we missed
the bull, and the men said, " We told you so ;
you will never get up the mountain. You
started Good Friday. The Devil is with you,"
and other encouraging remarks.
I gave them my opinion in words that were
forcible, if not strictly moral, and ordered them
to find that bull; which they did in a short
while, where it might have been expected, quietly
feeding on some long grass near a spring run.
Starting on again, we presently began to
climb the mountains. Our way led us to some
of the most beautiful places in all South Amer-
ica, an ascent up through a tangled jungle,
with vistas of the blue ocean in the distance,
and occasional glimpses of the lofty mountains
beyond us.
At one place in the road, the men took me
stealthily to a high bank, overhanging a pool
of clear water, where I had an opportunity to
see one of the largest alligators, perhaps, in
all the world. I have seen others almost as
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large, but none that appeared so big and heavy.
I fired at him, but the men said it was a waste
of ammunition ; bullets could make no impres-
sion, that is, not from above, and one could
rarely approach him from the river, he was so
wary; and when one did succeed in getting
near enough for a shot, he would always show
fight, and was considered too dangerous for an
encounter.
On our first day's march there was little of
interest, only continued fatigue. We had ex-
pected to stop for the night at one of the camps
prepared by the Aurohuaco Indians for the con-
venience of their people, who frequently use
the road on which we were travelling. We
found these camps too dirty for use, and full of
vermin, and were forced to keep on, hoping to
reach a house before night.
We were making good progress, but along
in the afternoon the bull lay down, as if ex-
hausted. " We told you so," came from the
men with sundry variations. I did not stop
to listen to their remarks about the powers of
Satan, but fell to work vigorously urging the
bull on, and presently succeeded.
About sunset we had crossed the first range
^6
AND ACROSS PANAMA
of mountains, and were passing through a
mountain valley, where the gathering shades of
the evening made pleasant travelling, and the
bull plodded along patiently, as if it under-
stood the situation. As it began to grow dark,
we were approaching a higher ridge of the
mountain, and I felt many misgivings as to
our ability to reach a house, which the men now
assured me could not be far away; but just
then we saw a light, and in a few minutes we
were standing before the door of a well-built
hut, where a solitary Indian, named Mario
Henio, was living with his only child, a pretty
little girl of some twelve or fourteen years.
The Indian came to welcome us, holding three
pieces of sugar-cane in his hands, one for each,
and it was pleasant to receive his grave, kindly
greetings.
I was pleased to see that my guide's first
thought was for the bull, and the tired animal
was made comfortable with an abundance of
fresh grass. It had done good work that day,
and a pack-mule could never have come so far.
From our provisions a bountiful supper was
prepared, which we shared with the Indian and
his little girl; and then we all went to bed,
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where I found it comfortable to have my blan-
kets gathered close around me in my hammock,
while a fire in the centre of the house gave a
softness to the crisp mountain air, but did not
quite warm it. I had a beautiful sleep that
night, and when I awoke in the morning my
men were preparing the cargo, and the pretty
little girl was busy getting breakfast. We had
Indian provisions, and a quantity of rice and
dried peche peche, a little bivalve, Donax den-
ticulatus, which is found in great abundance at
times in the sand along the sea at DibuUa.
The flavour is delicate, and I had become very
fond of them, and on starting for the mountains
had taken a good supply among our provisions.
After breakfast I gave some silver coins to
the little Indian girl, whose delight and happy
enthusiasm ov r the gift was a pleasant open-
ing for the day. We had not far to go, and the
only incident was the necessity of fording a
mountain stream, where the water, originating
in the perpetual snow of the higher mountains,
was so cold that it made the flesh creep.
About noon we reached Pueblo Viejo, where
additional guides and a fresh animal were to be
engaged. While preparations were being made,
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I had an opportunity to look about me. The
place was delightful, a narrow valley among
high mountain peaks, where in the distance the
great snow-clad summits of the inner range
could be distinctly seen. Opposite the little
village was a solitary conical mountain, isolated,
and not so high as the others, more regular in
appearance, and covered with green grass to
the very top. I determined I would explore it,
and later told my men we would stop for a day
or two at Pueblo Vie jo.
As sunset was approaching, I went part way
up that peculiar mountain to enjoy the view.
I must have gone higher than I thought. After
a time I found a seat on a bare spot, and alone
in almost unknown mountains gave myself up
to the enjoyment of the scene, a wilderness of
rugged peaks towering all about me, the light
of the sunset falling on them in sharp contrast
to the gloomy shadows lengthening in the valley
below. It was fascinating. Presently shadows
began to gather over the mountains, and then,
as the darkness of the tropical evening came,
following after the sunset, the great peaks ap-
peared to rise up higher and to draw nearer,
as if to crush me, a tiny creature intruding
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himself before their majesty. Fascinated, I
watched for a time, and then suddenly realized
that night had come, and I was alone in the
mountains. At first I was frightened, but on
second thought I remembered that the trail
went all around the base of the mountain, and
that, go down as I would, I could not miss it.
There was a little danger from poisonous snakes,
but that was all, and I began at once making
my way down wherever it seemed easiest.
The grass had been burnt over, and to avoid
snakes, I followed the burnt places, and made
fair progress ; but I had to go carefully, as
the mountain was steep, and a careless step on
the coarse, angular gravel might give a bad
fall. After going some distance, I saw ahead
of me a black line extending some distance down
the mountain, apparently a path leading ex-
actly where I wanted to go. I considered my-
self fortunate, and, hurrying toward it, put
my foot down carefully, so as to get a firm
hold on any loose ground, and the next thing
I knew, I plunged head first into darkness, and
fell on my back and shoulders, and then began
slipping down, to where I did not know. For-
tunately no bones were broken, but visions of
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
snakes and stinging things nearly frightened
away what little breath was left in my body.
With the energy almost of despair, I clutched
at the ground, and dug my feet into the loose
gravel to hold myself from slipping on further ;
then I found I was in a narrow chasm where
I could hold on to either side and keep myself
in position, while a company of bats flew taunt-
ingly about in the dark.
I saw now a line of light above me, and imme-
diately began climbing toward it, a hand and a
foot on each side. As I went higher, the chasm
became wider, and I was just able to reach the
top, and there, with a hand on either side and
black darkness opening below, hung as if ex-
ercising on the parallel bars, and it seemed only
a question of a few minutes when my strength
would give out, and down I would go again,
into what I did not know. To practise gym-
nastics with the unknown opening below one
is hardly to be recommended. I had a hand on
either side of the chasm, but there seemed no
way to get both hands on one side. I kicked
and struggled, and was just about to drop ex-
hausted, when, sinking gradually, as my
strength weakened, one foot struck against a
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rock or stone on one side of the chasm. It gave
an insecure support, but, bracing my foot
against it, I made a sort of spring, grabbed the
long grass at one side, and hauled myself out,
fortunately more frightened than hurt.
I looked about me, a dizzy feeling in my
head, and then saw some lights down the moun-
tain, and heard excited voices calling my name.
I answered, and then a voice came back through
the darkness telling me not to move till guides
arrived to show me the way down. Presently
three frightened men came hurrying up, and
asked at once if I had fallen into a pit, and
when I said yes, they told me that some of those
openings were hundreds of feet deep, and no
man in the settlement would dare to cross that
mountain at night without a good torch.
We did not say anything more, but went
directly down the mountain and back to the
house, where I had something to eat, and then
went to my hammock, thoroughly exhausted.
Next morning I was awakened early by one
of the men, who called into my room, " Get up
quickly if you want to see the mountains ; they
are all as if reflected in a mirror." I hurried
out, and truly it was a beautiful sight: the air
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
was so clear that every mountain, yes, every
rock and every leaf, stood out in bold precision.
The sun was not yet up, at least it was not
shining in the valley, but there was light every-
where, clear, cool, and brilliant, yet no signs of
the sun. I did not lose a moment, but hurrying
on my clothes, started to climb the green moun-
tain. On the way up, I saw the hole in which I
had fallen. It was about twenty feet deep, and
how I escaped without serious injury I cannot
tell. The hat I had worn was lying at the bottom
of the chasm, but I had no time for that now,
and hurried on, wishing to reach a high eleva-
tion before the sun rose. As I went up, some
of the higher peaks began to glow in the sun-
light, and then long, golden rays came stream-
ing across the valley, still well above my head.
I hurried on, but presently the sunbeams in-
creased, and it was time to stop and watch. I
stood on a spur of the mountain in a deep
shadow, at a point above some, and below others,
of the mountain peaks ; all up and down the
valley there were dark places in sharp contrast
with great pathways of light ever increasing
as the sun rose higher. As I watched, there
came a flight of swallows, hundreds and hun-
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
dreds, sailing swiftly down over the valley, pass-
ing through sunlight and shadow, some above
and some below me; and the morning was so
clear that I could see each one of them with a
distinctness that scarce seemed real, and, as they
sailed swiftly on, their soft, rippling cries filled
all the air. Then, while I was watching, the
green peak behind me glowed with a sudden
light. An instant more, and the shadows about
me seemed to sink down, and then, in a burst
of clear light, the sun rose over the mountains ;
and Easter morning had dawned. I waited a
few minutes more, while the last of the swallows
went sailing on down to the lowlands, and then
I went up to the top of the green mountain.
It was a beautiful view from there, but that
strange, clear light had gone out among the
mountains, and the air lacked something; the
scene was tame in comparison. After looking at
some deep openings in the mountain, where, if
one had fallen in, there would have been but
little chance of ever getting out, I started for
the house. On the way I cut a stout stick from
a clump of bushes, and after a rough descent
arrived at the house without accident, just in
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
time for breakfast, which, it is needless to say,
I enjoyed thoroughly.
Arrangements to continue our journey were
completed that afternoon. Everything was
most satisfactory, and I was to start the next
morning. I asked the men what had become
of the Devil now, but their faith was not shaken,
and with anxious faces they warned me to be
careful, or he would have me yet. I joked with
them for a time, and found considerable amuse-
ment in their unreasoning fears and absurd an-
swers.
I went to bed feeling well satisfied, but not
for long, because my hands began to itch and
pain suddenly, and I could not understand what
it was. Presently it became so annoying that
I got up, called one of the men, and asked what
it could mean. They didn't know, but pres-
ently one asked to see the stick I had cut in the
mountains. It was standing in the corner, and
I brought it to him. One look was sufficient,
and he ordered it thrown out of the house.
" Pringa Mosa," he said ; " didn't you know
better than to cut that? " Then he told me that
it would not be very bad, as it was not the worst
kind, but that there was no help for me.
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One of my men had the impudence to make
some remarks about the Devil and Good Friday,
and the first thing I could lay hands on went
flying at his head, but he was good at dodging
and no harm was done.
Next morning my face and hands were pain-
ful and badly swollen, but everything was ready
for an early start, and I decided to push on.
We crossed a high mountain called El Barco.
and made our way down to the beautiful valley
of the Rio Ancho, where the grass was long and
abundant, and all the air soft and cool like a
bright day in October. Here we found a group
of houses of the Aurohuaco and stopped for
luncheon.
The houses were empty, and the silence of
desertion, intensified by the rocky heights over-
looking us, brooded undisturbed ; only our voices
jarred against it. The breeze rustled the leaves
on the trees, and the birds hid themselves in the
bushes as if fleeing from some unknown danger.
There was a mystery about it all. My guide
shook his head, and told me that he was afraid
the Indians had run away and it might be dan-
gerous for us to stay in their country.
"Why so.?" I asked.
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" Because this means you are not welcome,
and it may be that as we go on they will roll
great stones down on us from the mountains
above the path. You can't depend on them;
they are a strange lot."
We ate our luncheon among the deserted
houses, and then started on again, anxious to
reach the Aurohuaco capital, San Miguel, before
dark. The road took us on up the valley, now
descending to a rushing river, again climbing
over a projecting spur from the mountain, and
after a time we came to a curious suspension
bridge, made by the Indians, who had laid two
long poles across a chasm, and then tied branches
with convenient joints to them, in order to hold
in place a series of logs lying on the angle
formed by firmly binding together the lower
ends of the branches.
It made a fair bridge, but rather difficult to
walk on, as it swayed uncomfortably, and no
attempt had been made to shape the narrow logs
which formed the foot-path. I got over safely,
though several times my boots, which were very
slippery, threatened to give me a bad fall.
Across the bridge, I found myself on a sort of
table-land within the valley, where there were
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
boulders and blocks of granite lying about.
The trail led to another flat place, and then up
a terrace to a broad part of the valley, where
presently we came to a gate, and then beyond
us saw the city of San Miguel, a collection of
one hundred to one hundred and fifty little round
houses, protected by a strong fence, and stand-
ing on an elevation at the foot of a great, bald
mountain. Just outside of the city we came to
the Cansa Maria, where the Indians hold their
religious ceremonies and dances.
It was a round building, somewhat larger than
the houses, with a high, conical roof, and three
poles at the top like an inverted tripod. On each
of these poles was a clay cylinder, resembling a
great earthen jar without a bottom. These were
slipped over the poles and rested on the roof;
apparently they were intended to hold the
thatch in place, and were perhaps to serve as
a sort of ornament as well. The building was
circular, the sides of open triangular lattice-
work, but inside we found nothing, and in a
little round house behind the Cansa Maria there
was nothing. The guide muttered to himself,
shook his head angrily, and we hurried on.
Soon we were among the houses, but a city of
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the dead could not be more desolate; there was
nothing: household utensils, animals, people,
all were gone. Even the little Catholic mission
was deserted. We had been expecting to secure
fresh provisions from the Indians, but had to
content ourselves with the things we had
brought. I didn't care, because there was
plenty of peche peche, but my guide complained
loudly, saying he expected bread, crackers,
cheese, canned meat, and other delicacies usually
carried by travellers; things which I had left
behind long ago, as being a nuisance to carry,
and such an expense for freight, etc., that it
was cheaper on a long trip to buy eggs at a
dollar each, when pressed for food, than to
carry provision in bulk.
Presently we heard a rooster crow on the
other side of the river. It had evidently been
forgotten, and the guide went after it. He
returned shortly, and we had chicken stew,
rice, and an abundant supply of peche peche,
which I considered much better than the chicken.
We had plenty of strong coffee, and I was as
well contented as one could be who had expected
to meet a strange, almost unknown, race of In-
dians, but had found only a deserted city.
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We slept that night in one of the empty
houses, and next morning the guide, who had
become very unpleasant, said it was not safe
for us to go on, and that we must return at
once. One of my men gave a satisfied laugh,
and I thought I heard him say something about
the Devil and Good Friday; but he suddenly
went about his work with great energy, and so
nothing came of it. For my part, I was not
going back, and after a few strong words, my
guide agreed to go on to Macatama, where there
was a Cansa Maria, and it might be that the
Indians were there for some ceremony or other;
but he reminded me that, if an avalanche of
stones and rocks came rolling down, it would
not be his fault; the Indians would not harm
him or the others, but they would catch me if
they could. I told him that I believed he was
lying, and requested him to keep his mouth
shut, and added that, if he was afraid to go
on, I would do so alone. He muttered angrily
as he arranged the cargo on his bull, and after
a poor breakfast we started on.
The valley now became narrower, and the
trail led along the sides of the mountain. At
times the guide said that he could see Indians
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high above us, keeping watch, but they were
so far up that I could not make them out.
After a time we came to a few houses and a
Cansa Maria at a place called Takena. These
were also deserted, and after stopping for
luncheon, I ordered the guide to move on. A
fog was coming up, and he complained angrily,
saying that it was dangerous; that it might
shut out the path; that the Indians would take
advantage of it, or the bull would slip and be
killed. I simply ordered him on, and he went,
declaring that he would hold me responsible if
anything happened to the bull.
The road was quite easy, and we made good
progress. Presently great banks of thick fog
gathered around us, and then the trail suddenly
became a narrower track, leading diagonally
up the steep side of a great grassy ridge.
Around us the silence was intense, broken only
by the scraping of our feet on the loose gravel
along the trail, or the cry of some frightened
bird that flew up suddenly and then disappeared
in the fog. From far below us came the indis-
tinct sound of rushing waters. We could not
see ten feet on any side, and as we went on it
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seemed like climbing up to some enchanted place
on a pathway leading over the clouds.
After two or three hours of cautious climb-
ing, the conical roof of a house suddenly loomed
up out of the fog. The guide stopped, saying,
" This is Macatama ; we can go no further to-
night; the next house is a long distance off."
There was nothing but to do as he said, so,
making ourselves comfortable in the deserted
Cansa Maria, we prepared for the night, the
guide saying that this was the utmost that could
be expected ; that there was nothing to eat, and
next morning we must hurry back, and get out
of the Indian country. I did not say anything,
but was fully determined that when morning
came we would go at least one day's journey
higher up among the mountains.
The next day was as perfect as could have
been asked, and all the air was fresh and crisp.
We had coffee, and then I said we were going on
higher up among the mountains, and we did,
the guide driving his bull on in a furious rage,
muttering all sorts of curses under his breath.
After about an hour's hard walking, we came
to three or four little houses at the head of the
valley. Here the guide stopped, drove the bull
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into the enclosure around the nearest house, and
said, " This is the end. Above us there are no
more houses; the trail stops here; the bull can
go no further; the Indians have run away;
there is no one to carry your things; if you
were the Devil himself, you could not reach the
top of the ridge alone. Order breakfast, and
we will go back."
I considered a moment, then I told one of the
men to stay and cook breakfast, and that I would
go with our mountain guide and my servant a
little farther up, and at least see the base of
the main range. Then I took a cake of brown
sugar in my pocket, left a frightened man be-
hind me, and with the two others started on,
saying we would be back before breakfast was
ready.
We had gone some distance when my guide
pointed out a round peak below the main ridge,
saying that we could go up there, and that he
had taken scientists, particularly botanists, that
far, and, if I wished, we could go over there
and climb it, though it would be hard work.
I didn't want this, and had other plans ; so
saying that I wanted to see the rocks, we kept
on, going gradually higher along the base of
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the main range. To my intense disappointment,
a fog began to gather, and it seemed useless to
go further. Just ahead of us there was a great
pyramid of granite, a mountain in itself, stand-
ing up against the main range. I thought if
I could only have reached that point before the
fog came, I would have been satisfied.
I turned reluctantly back, pausing for a mo-
ment to watch the fog-banks, as the wind swept
them in eddying curves up the peak of granite
just above me. Then I noticed that, as these
fog-banks came against the rocky mass and were
carried whirling upward by the wind, they faded
away before reaching the top ; and I turned
back up the mountain again, feeling sure that
the day was clearing, and telling the guide that
I wished to see that mass of rock. He said we
would be lost in the fog ; that it was dangerous ;
we were on the paramo now, and he would not
be responsible. I made no answer, but pushed
on, and by the time I reached the precipice at
the foot of the granite peak, the fog was rap-
idly disappearing as if for my special benefit,
though it hung about the lower peaks all day,
and I did not have a very extended view. On
reaching the precipice, I found that I could
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make my way along its base over masses of
fallen rock, and that this would lead me along
the western side of the peak and directly up
toward the main range.
It was hard climbing in the rarefied air; the
guide grumbled violently, and presently my serv-
ant gave out. He had the strength of an ox,
but his weight was against him. I had no time
to wait, and, after about an hour more, stood on
the side of the main range with the granite peaks
just below me.
There was a ledge of rock and precipice fur-
ther to the west, and, thinking that I could climb
along its base to still higher elevations, I started
as well as I could, making my way toward it
over the broken masses of rock.
My guide gave a cry of rage, hurried past
me, and sat down as if to bar the path, saying,
decidedly, " Senor, we go no higher."
I protested angrily, and ordered him on.
" Not I," he replied ; " we are on the upper
paramo, all bare rocks and unknown country;
no one has been here, not Spaniard, American,
or Indian; I go no further."
I ordered him on again.
" I will not go," he said ; " you are not rea-
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sonable. I have taken scientific men in the moun-
tains a great many times. They don't ask to
come to these places ; they go where it is known,
and where they can carry their provisions ; then
they spend a few days, collect their plants, but-
terflies, rocks, whatever they want, and go back
contented, but you, you go on as if you thought
yourself the equal of the Devil; he might go
up there, a man could not."
I told him to hold his tongue. " But suppose
the fog comes," he protested, " how will we get
down? To spend the night here on the paramo
would be death ; be reasonable and come away."
I hesitated at this, he seemed so much in ear-
nest; perhaps I was not reasonable. Then I
looked up at the dark ridge of massive rock and
the snow peaks glistening in the sun. What if
I could never come again.'' That was enough.
I told him to sit where he was, so that I could
call to him when I came down, and then I hurried
on. It was slow work at first, but after a time
I got over the broken rocks, and made my way
along the base of the second precipice, getting
higher up at every step, and presently I came
to a broken place in the rocks, where I managed
to climb up to the overhanging ledge, and there
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
found very easy walking to a smaller precipice.
To reach this and climb over was not difficult,
and then I saw before me a sloping terrace
standing along the main range, with the rocks
and snow-covered elevations of the backbone
of all the mountains rising directly above it.
There was a little soil caught here, and an
abundance of coarse grass growing among the
shattered pieces of granite that were lying all
about. A group of wild cattle quietly feeding
on the terrace seemed surprised, but not alarmed,
at my coming among them.
It was an easy thing now to hurry across this
sloping terrace to the rocky ridge and clamber
up at a convenient point, and then sit down in
a place exposed to the sun, where the rocks were
slightly warmed and comfortable. Around me
there were ridges of solid rock and snow, irreg-
ular peaks, some above and some below me.
Where I sat, one leg almost hung over a black
abyss, made where the ridges came together.
It looked dark and threatening, and one could
only shrink away in dread of it. I could hear
the sound of waters which I could not see rush-
ing along in its depths, and great stones kicked
over with my foot, as I sat there, disappeared
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and fell so far that I could not hear any sound
of their striking on the bottom ; across this deep
place there was a blue glacier, and a little fur-
ther on the white peak of the Ahorqueta rose over
a thousand feet above me, glistening in the trop-
ical sun. A mantle of fog hung about the lower
mountains, and I could see nothing of the low-
lands, but, shut in apart from all the world, was
alone among those mighty mountains ; and I
was so very little, the silence was so deep and
unchanging, that I scarcely dared to move, sit-
ting in awe as of some great presence that might
have been disturbed at my intrusion. I sat there
a long time, when I became used to my sur-
roundings, and began climbing about among the
rocks ; but it was difficult work, and in that rare-
fied air it was an effort even to raise my hand
to my head. After a time I noticed that the
surface of the fog was swelling up, and falling
away again, in great, white billows. It was a
fascinating sight, but I could easily see that
it was creeping steadily closer, and knew that
it was time to return to my guide.
I started at once, hurrying on down the moun-
tain, and presently began calling, but there was
no answer. I hurried on, still calling, but only
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
the echo of my voice came mocking back, re-
peated from crag to crag and across the open
spaces among the mountains. Could it be pos-
sible that I had lost my way? I called again
and again, but there was no answer.
Then I stopped calling, and after considering
a moment began retracing my steps till I could
find some point that I was sure I had seen com-
ing up; but now everything was changed and
confused. It was not that I had lost the general
direction, — the streams and mountain ridges
indicated that, — but the question was to find
the path down among those rough, bare rocks.
I noticed now that the fog was growing
alarmingly. A night in the snow on the upper
paramo is dangerous; I knew that well, and I
had nothing but sugar to eat. I saw that I
would have to make a dash for it in an effort
to reach lower elevations before the fog closed
in around me. I hurried on, taking advantage
of any opening among the rocks, and presently
saw far below me the granite peak that had
attracted my attention coming up. It looked
nothing but a great pointed boulder now, rest-
ing on the side of the mountain, but this was
a landmark, and I seemed to make better prog-
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ress. After a time I called again to my guide,
but, as before, the mocking echoes were my only
answer.
I went on, becoming more alarmed every min-
ute as the fog rolled steadily in on me ; but I
was drawing closer to the granite peak, and a
little further on was delighted to meet my ser-
vant, who was making poor progress, and fre-
quently stopping for rest. I asked anxiously
for the guide, fearing that he might have gone
up the mountains and become lost trying to look
after me; but my anxiety was turned to indig-
nation when my servant told me that the guide
had rested a long time, and then started indif-
ferently down the mountain. He had told my
servant that I would certainly be killed, and
that he for one was going back to have some-
thing to eat, and that, as I would go up the
mountain, I could come down alone, or die up
there.
On hearing this, my servant had come up to
look for me; he was making poor work of it,
but I was glad enough to have him. We hur-
ried on down the mountain, and presently caught
sight of the guide far below me, and a little
beyond him could see the trail winding down the
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range. He was taking it leisurely enough, and
stopping now and then to pick herbs, which he
sold for medicine in the lower valleys, and I
could see that he had quite a bundle of them.
I called, but he was too far below to hear
me; then I sent a big stone crashing down the
mountain. He heard this, though it did not
come anywhere near him, and he stopped, look-
ing up in alarm. He saw us, and I pointed my
rifle at him, and then he stopped in good earnest.
We hurried on, and just as the fog closed in
around us, we reached him; if we had delayed
only a few minutes longer, results might have
been serious.
There was nothing to say; I simply ordered
him to take us to camp, and keep his mouth shut.
Whenever he spoke, I simply repeated this order,
and presently he became decidedly alarmed.
The fog gathered thicker and thicker, and by
the time we reached camp it was growing very
dark. There we found the man I had left to
cook frightened almost out of his wits, feeling
sure that we had all been killed, and satisfied
that the Indians would soon come and murder
him.
He had a lot of rice, peche peche, and veg-
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etables cooked together, and, as brown sugar
is light diet for a day's work, we all ate heartily.
Then we went to bed. I had a frightful
headache, and for a time was afraid that I would
be seriously sick, but after awhile I fell asleep,
and in the morning was better; and what a
morning that was, the air so perfect, the sky
so clear and blue, and the mountains standing
in bold outline, free from all fog or clouds. It
seemed a shame to leave such a place; we had
plenty of brown sugar and some rice left, and
I hesitated about going down the mountains.
While I was considering, I heard my guide say^
ing, " Now we know he is crazy," and my ser-
vant gravely proposed to strap me on the bull
with the cargo, and so take me down out of
danger. Of course they would never have dared
to do it; but when my servant earnestly ad-
vised me to give it up, and told me that to stay
on the paramo without proper food was a real
danger, pneumonia and fevers frequently re-
sulting, I decided to start for the settlements;
because it was only reasonable, and the advice
of a man who had taken the risk of coming to
my assistance when he thought I was in danger
was worth considering.
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Returning to Pueblo Viejo was not difficult,
and after resting a short time I explored various
places among the lower mountains, but without
particular incident.
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CHAPTER XXVI.
AMONG THE GOAJIRA INDIANS
Having seen the mountains, I now started
along the coast, in a canoe once more, but this
time it was quite safe. There were no rocks,
and the wind blew mostly off the shore, so that
we were protected by the land; and at places
the sea was so smooth that the men hitched a
long rope to the canoe, and walked along the
shore, towing it after them, much in the manner
of a canal-boat. For two days we made our
way along the coast, and then came to the city
of Rio Hacha, an hospitable place, a typical
trading town; where Indians came and went,
bringing produce, and the merchants were do-
ing a thriving business, trading and bartering.
I found kind friends in the city of Rio Hacha.
but the place itself was uninteresting. The
country surrounding it was low and arid, a des-
ert almost, and I was shortly anxious to make
further explorations.
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When I proposed to go along the coast of the
Goajira Peninsula, and look up the pearl fisher-
ies, my friends shook their heads. The Goajira
Indians are dangerous people, and I have light
eyes, a feature particularly distasteful to them,
and, according to my friends, always rather in
disfavour among the aborigines of the tropical
America.
The Goajiras have been known to suddenly
attack a person with light eyes, even when meet-
ing peaceably for friendly barter. The cry is
raised, " Eyes like a cat," " Let us kill it," and
sometimes they do kill without further provoca-
tion.
But in spite of warning, I prepared my expe-
dition, and we started late one afternoon from
the city of Rio Hacha, launching a clumsy canoe
through the low surf, and were presently making
good progress along the coast under a light,
favourable wind. When night came, the men
said we would go on shore and sleep near some
Indian houses that we could see a little distance
inland. I asked if it would not be dangerous.
" For you, yes," said the leader, " but with us
you will be safe." So without further words
the canoe was taken ashore, and we made our
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way toward the Indian houses, where everything
was now dark, except the smouldering embers
of their fires. The moon was shining uncertainly
through light, drifting clouds, all the country
was silent, and the houses loomed up dark and
mysterious above the flat, open ground of the
plain. The men walked boldly to the village,
I following, my head filled with the stories I
had heard of the savage nature and cruelty
of these Indians. Presently we were greeted by
the united howling and barking of all the dogs
in the place, and by the time we reached the
houses a number of men had come out, with
guns, knives, and bows and arrows in their hands.
A word from the leader of my party, and grunts
of satisfaction came from the Indians, who now
began to look me over unpleasantly, but a few
words of explanation and they seemed satisfied.
Then they talked for awhile with my men, gave
us fresh water and fire-wood; and with these
we went away, made a camp on the beach, and
slept as if there was no such thing as an Indian.
Very early next morning I was awakened to
find everything on board the canoe, and the men
ready to start again. We travelled until the
sun became very hot, and then stopped for
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breakfast at a convenient beach, where we
expected to rest during the heat of the day.
and then go on in the afternoon, camping
again late at night. Where we stopped
there were shallow lagoons covering considerable
ground, desolate-looking places, but filled with
quantities of herons, egrets, flamingoes, etc. ;
the different colours, brown, gray, pink, and
white, standing out in sharp contrast against the
dull water of the lagoon. I began to explore
about, but the men objected decidedly, saying
that if I went out of their sight I did so at my
own risk ; and as to their going with me, it would
do no good; they had no control or influence
over the Indians living near by ; that they were
a bad, dangerous lot; and, if any came along,
we would take to the canoe, and go on our way.
With such a recommendation for the place, I
was naturally careful, though I wandered around
a little, and did not see even the sign of an In-
dian. After a time we went on again, continuing
for two days without incident till we came to
the place where the Indians dive for pearls.
Here we went on shore, and waited. There was
nothing but a trail and two canoes drawn upon
the beach to mark the place. After waiting
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some time, I wanted the men to go call the In-
dians. They said that it would be no use; that
the Indians had seen us coming and would come
themselves just as soon as they were ready, and
not a moment sooner.
About an hour later we saw a man coming
down the trail, and then a little time more, and
about fifteen to twenty men and women had
gathered around us. After they had talked
awhile, my men said that they were satisfied, and
would bring me specimens of pearls in a short
time.
Then two of the Indians went out in a canoe
and began to fish, the others sitting indolently
about. I wanted my men to urge them to begin
diving for pearls ; but they told me that the
Indian law of hospitality required that they
should make me a present first, and so I had to
wait. Presently they came in with a basket of
fresh fish, which was duly presented to me, and
then all the Indian men took to the canoes, and
began vigorously diving for pearl shells.
They worked with great energy but without
system, each man for himself. Whoever hap-
pened to be in the canoe used the paddle with-
out regard for those who were in the water.
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yet, as they were not diving to very great depth,
none had to swim far to overtake the canoe, and
all seemed contented.
The canoes were paddled along very slowly,
the naked Indians peering over the sides seek-
ing to distinguish bunches of pearl shells cling-
ing among corals and marine plants.
The Goajiras are stalwart fellows of stocky
build, with great chest development attesting
their vigorous lungs, yet their diving was not
remarkable; they simply splashed into the
water. I have seen ^iiany American boys who
could do much better, though the continued
work, diving again and again without stopping
to rest, gave evidence of strength which few
can rival, and I doubt whether any American
boy could keep with the Indians, even though
they did splash in more like big Newfoundland
dogs than expert divers.
It was an animated scene — four canoe-loads
of Indians, men of magnificent build, diving
continuously into water blue as a clear sapphire
and clear as an inland lake, the intense sunlight
of the tropics casting a glare over it all, and
causing iridescent reflections of blue to go
shimmering over the water in sharp contrast
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to the dull green of the grassy plains along
the shore.
After some hours the Indians came in with
a large quantity of the shells, and without fur-
ther ceremony began opening them, which they
did very skilfully, from time to time picking
out a pearl and putting it in their mouths.
As they worked, they answered all my ques-
tions about the number of pearls they usually
secured, the depth of water in which the shells
were found, the size of the shells, and many other
things.
When all the shells were opened, trading be-
gan. We had tobacco, sugar, print cloths,
worsted, and such things. The Indians would
bring a pearl, or perhaps several of them, and
make an offer for exchange, naming the things
wanted. Sometimes we took the offer and some-
times not, and when the things Risked were not
given, the Indians would go away a little dis-
tance, consult together, and in a short time
would come back offering new combinations of
pearls, and asking different things in exchange.
When an Indian was successful in making a
trade, the others looked on approvingly, but
if not, his defeat was greeted with shouts and
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
derisive laughter. They were perfectly good-
natured about it, and kept on consulting to-
gether and offering till all their pearls were
gone.
There was one Indian who had a rough pearl
not worth anything, and too old and worn to be
of any service as a specimen. He offered it
again and again, but I always declined it ; and,
finally, he wanted one cigarette for it, but even
this was declined. Then he set up mimic cry-
ing, and made sport for all his friends, and
especially for my men. When he had finished,
he made me a present of the pearl, and I made
him a present of a package of cigarettes, and
we were both well pleased.
While the trading was going on, the women
had cooked the pearl mollusks, and the Indians
fell to eating greedily. I had never known that
they were good eating, and asked my men if the
Indians would not give me some. The request
was not completed before they hurried to me with
all I could possibly eat, and urged me to take
more, saying that they did not know that a
white man would eat them. I did, though, and
found them very good, in flavour resembling
an escallop, a little sweeter, and with a peculiar
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flavour that left a harsh feeHng in the mouth
that was not exactly pleasant.
After the Indians went away, we travelled
on for a time, and finally stopped at another
place, where we slept on shore, but did not learn
anything about the pearl fisheries, because the
wind was blowing, and the Indians could not
dive. Then we pushed on to the Cabo de Vela,
and slept in the canoe till morning, the men
saying it was not safe to land till we could see
what was going on. There was considerable
noise on shore that could be heard plainly, and
the men thought we would probably have to
return without seeing the Indians, but in the
morning everything was quiet, and we went up
to the landing-place, where there was a single
house, and were soon made welcome. I ex-
changed sugar that had cost fifteen cents for
a fat sheep, and we prepared to make ourselves
comfortable.
, Nothing could be learned about the pearls,
and no specimens were to be had, because the
wind was still blowing. I wanted my men to
take me on further to examine a point of rocks,
but they refused, saying they had come as far
as had been agreed, and proposed to rest.
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
A number of Indians had gathered around,
and, finding that one, an Indian boy, could
speak Spanish, I made arrangements to have
four of them take a canoe and go with me on
to see the rocks.
The leader of my men looked aghast. " They
will certainly kill you," he said. " I must go
along, too, and yet I don't fancy the hot sun;
better not go. I have brought you here, you
are safe, and this is the end of my contract."
I looked at the Indians and liked their ap-
pearance, and said to the boy : " My man says
you may kill me, but I think I can trust you."
The boy translated, and the Indians looked
pleased. My men, seeing that I was going, gave
a groan of protest, and prepared to follow me;
but I would not have it, and proposed to go
alone with those Indians, and I was not disap-
pointed in them. Whatever I wanted to see,
and in all that I wanted to know, they were
ready to do their best for me. After I had seen
the pearl banks as well as we could, and had
visited their fishing-grounds, I asked to be taken
out beyond the point to where some great waves
were breaking about a series of detached rocks,
and thousands of sea-birds were constantly com-
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ing and going. The boy translated my request.
The Indians looked at the rocks doubtfully,
but presently began paddling slowly toward
them. As we drew nearer, they seemed to gain
confidence. " Nobody hear," said the boy, " we
can go on," and presently we were riding the
great waves just outside the circle of foam,
where they dashed against the rocks. Then
from behind one of the rocks came three canoe
loads of unfriendly Indians. They were intent
on fishing, and did not notice us at first. " Keep
still," whispered the boy, " and we will get away
behind the rocks." Immediately the Indians saw
us. " Go forward," I said, making a violent
gesture with my hand, to indicate the way I
wished to go. The men obeyed immediately;
perhaps they thought that I had some special
means of defence to be so confident ; but, in
truth, my heart was beating the wrong way
from fright; sometimes up in my throat, and
again down in my boots. A moment of sus-
pense, and the canoes came together. I stood
up, looked the men over gravely, asked to see
their fish, and told the boy to buy some for me,
which he did. Perhaps my apparent confidence
impressed them, and for a time we floated lazily
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
on the waves, I keeping them busy answering
questions, and presently, while we were still in-
terested in each other, I motioned to my men
to go on, and they obeyed immediately. For
a moment or two the other Indians watched us
intently; then they went quietly to work again
fishing, and the danger was over.
I asked the boy to take me on shore, where
we walked about a little examining the rocks
and getting specimens. The Indians would
not let me go far from the boat, saying that
across the ridge they had enemies, and it would
not be safe. Soon I had all the specimens I
wanted, and we went back to the canoe; and
after paddling about a little more, went over
to the hut again, where my men seemed much
relieved at our coming. I paid the men in sugar,
fifteen cents' worth to each, and gave the boy
a string of beads with his share of the sugar.
He was much pleased, but presently came and
asked me gravely if I would allow him to give
the beads to his little sister, as he had a string
for himself, and then he added, apologetically:
" The beads are a suitable kind for girls, but
not for men." I was surprised to find such sen-
sibility and honour in an Indian boy, and gave
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him two other strings of beads for his little
sister, and a bright-coloured handkerchief for
himself, which was quite suited to a man's use,
and he was well contented.
Presently he came running up to me, saying
that his father would be willing to sell him,
and wouldn't I like to buy him for myself; and
he began telling me all the work he could do,
and how well he would serve me; but I could
not take him, and he was deeply disappointed.
Perhaps I made a mistake. He was a strong,
well-built lad of fifteen to sixteen, and a faith-
ful, daring companion, such as he promised to
become, cannot often be found.
A few days later I returned to Rio Hacha and
then went on to other places.
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CHAPTER XXVII.
RAMON, A STORY OF THE GOAJIRAS
After a short rest, I was ready to set
out again, and went to make a brief study of a
series of coal deposits about fifty miles south
of Rio Hacha. There I became acquainted
with a family of Indians, from whom I learned
rather an interesting fragment of tribal history
which seemed worth recording. I heard the
story in disconnected portions, while the Indians
told me of causes and dangers which had forced
them to flee from their own country, and seek
refuge in this distant place. To make the ac-
count intelligible, I must first give some details
of their every-day life and tribal organization.
The Goajiras are different from most of the
South American Indians, and more resemble the
sturdy aborigines of the north ; there is a vague
legend among them that many generations ago
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their people came from over the sea, and con-
quered the country. They are divided into
clans or castes, and again into families. The
clan relationship is not very strong, but the
family ties are rigidly maintained, and to offend
one member of a family is to make enemies of
them all.
Unfortunately, they are of a quarrelsome na-
ture, bloody contests are frequent, and some-
times whole families are exterminated. One
could write much in regard to the customs of
these Indians, but, as I am writing of adventures
only, I will tell only what I heard of one of
their fights, filling in some of the details, because
the story was but imperfectly told to me.
The names of the clans only are given, but
I do not wish to convey the impression that
these Indians war with each other according
to clan or caste, for this is not the case; their
warfare is generally among families, though
frequently the fighting will assume quite seri-
ous proportions; and two villages, representing
different families, will sometimes fight till one
or the other is destroyed utterly. Their quar-
rels principally originate through their eager-
ness to possess a number of wives. Among them
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
a man Is estimated for his inherited wealth; to
have made money gives only inferior prestige.
but there is a certain amount of importance
attached to the possession of a number of wives,
and a leading man among these Indians will
maintain as many as he can. To secure wives,
however, he must be successful beyond the aver-
age. One wife is easily obtained, but to have
more is something of an achievement. In the
first place, when a Goajira Indian marries, he is
required to provide an endowment for his wife,
which must be paid in advance to her uncles,
who put it out in cattle, to be carefully kept
on the range till such time as the wife is di-
vorced, or becomes a widow; then the property
is turned over to her and her children, with the
increase, and it usually amounts to a considera-
ble provision. A Goajira Indian who desires to
marry must not only be acceptable to the girl's
family, but the endowment he provides must
be sufficient to support her and her children in
the condition to which she was born. Having
once provided for the wife and her children, in
advance, he can divorce her by simply directing
that she take her property and go home to her
mother; a woman then feels herself disgraced,
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and this serves to make them careful, and their
domestic relations are well ordered, though the
men have the most absolute authority.
The strength and position of a family is
increased by the number of wives provided for
among them, consequently those who are enemies
try to prevent marriages, while those who are
friends endeavour to promote them; and the
man who is to be married must have the courage
to contend for his wife, as well as the position
to make him acceptable, and the means to pro-
vide for her.
The Puinee are one of the strongest, as well
as one of the most cruel, of all the castes of the
Goajiras; and when Lorenzo, son of Lorenzo,
the Chief, proposed to take to himself a second
wife from a family of the Muichagua caste,
belonging to a powerful village to the westward
of their country, the men of an Uriana village,
living between these two, determined that it
should not be allowed ; for these Puinee and the
Uriana villages had been at enmity, even in the
times remembered by the oldest Indians.
The Muichagua village was some distance
from that of the Puinee, yet Lorenzo went and
made all the arrangements among his new
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friends, and then returned in safety to receive
the congratulations of his own people. Then
he went a second time, successfully passing all
the Uriana villages, and returned again, and
in his village there was more rejoicing because
Lorenzo, the younger, gave promise of equal-
ling the daring and cunning of his father,
Lorenzo, the Chief.
But the men of the Uriana village were still
to be dealt with, and did not remain idle.
" What can Lorenzo want of his second wife
before he is twenty years old.^^ " they said.
" We must kill him or the girl," suggested
one of the younger men.
''^No, blood for blood, that will make the
Muichagua village our enemies."
" But they will be our enemies as soon as
she marries Lorenzo."
" Yet, if we can kill Lorenzo, it will not
be ' Let him take a wife in his own village, and
not increase our enemies.' The Muichagua vil-
lage cannot lawfully avenge his death till after
he is married. We must kill him first."
This was the counsel of the older men, and
so it was determined. Yet how? Lorenzo, the
younger, was a dangerous man, and the Puinee
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village was strong. Finally, it was decided that
Ramon, a daring member of the Uriana village,
should go to the Muichagua country, and wait
for an opportunity to meet Lorenzo, the
younger, when he went again to see his intended
bride. Ramon had two wives and two sons;
one a rather stupid fellow of about eighteen,
and the other, a boy of twelve or fourteen,
straight as an arrow, and as wicked a little In-
dian as ever ran naked over the plains of the
Goajira country. Little Ramon was all excite-
ment, and wanted to go with his father to help
kill their enemy, but he had to content himself
with helping to prepare the poisoned arrows,
polishing his father's stout bow, and carefully
oiling the string.
Ramon was shortly prepared for his under-
taking. His long hair was smoothed out, and
a plaited band of straw, like the rim of an
unfinished hat, was placed on his head, with
a long red feather from the tail of a macaw
standing exact at one side. He wore a string
of coral beads, and among them hung three
bullet-shaped charms made of red quartz, and
known among the Indians as tumas ; these tumas
are of various designs, and are found among
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
the ancient groves in the Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta Mountains to the westward of the
Goajira country, and certain rare shapes are
prized by these Indians beyond any other of
their possessions.
Ramon owned three of the bullet-shaped type,
and wore them with great pride. Besides the
beads, he wore a knitted belt of red and black
worsted, which held a narrow breech-cloth in
place; otherwise he was entirely naked. A
bunch of poisoned arrows was thrust between
his belt and skin on the left side; and with
a stout bow in his hand he set out, followed
by a slave who carried a bundle containing two
robes of fresh white cotton embroidered around
the edge with red worsted.
There was little ceremony of leave-taking,
and Ramon was soon striding over the open
country toward a thick group of tall cactus
plants, and then on into a grove of acacia and
divi-divi bushes; and after about half a day's
travelling he arrived at the Muichagua village.
As he went in among their houses, there was a
loud barking of dogs; children ran screaming
to their mothers, but Ramon walked on calmly
unconcerned. He was not exactly among ene-
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mies, nor were they enthusiastic friends; yet
he had nothing to do but go to the principal
house, give his name and position, announce
himself as a guest, and he was perfectly safe.
More than this, everything that could be done
was done for his entertainment ; the law of hos-
pitality demanded it. Whoever did him harm
did harm to his entertainers also, and amid all
the feasting there was no appearance of what
was in the thoughts of Ramon, as well as in the
thoughts of those who entertained him; but
this much was certain, no Puinee nor Uriana
man could fight in the Muichagua village while
both were guests.
Meantime, Lorenzo, the younger, was expect-
ing trouble. The Puinee are noted more for
cruelty and cunning than for valiant achieve-
ments, yet when they are in battle none are
more daring. It was natural to suppose that
their enemies would be preparing mischief, and
Lorenzo was anxious to take a body of men and
attack their village, so as to force them into
acquiescence; but Lorenzo, the chief, was grow-
ing old, and was more averse to open conflict
than ever. " Kill an enemy whenever you can
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
catch him." " We are kilhng more of them than
they of us." " Let it go," he said.
But Lorenzo, the younger, was not contented,
and he determined to lay a trap for some of their
Uriana enemies. So caUing one of his slaves,
he bade him go to the Muichagua village, de-
liver a message at the house where his intended
wife was living, and return. Then Lorenzo
secured the assistance of ten of his friends, tell-
ing them that he was sure that their enemies were
watching the Muichagua village, and would
follow to attack his messenger while he was
returning; not while he was going, because
that would be an offence to the Muichagua vil-
lage. The messenger was a good runner, and
could probably keep well ahead of his pursuers,
that is, unless they were mounted, of which there
was small probability; and it would be an easy
thing to kill some of them, as they passed by,
intent on catching the messenger; then, with a
part killed, the others could be easily overcome
and disposed of. This plan suited Lorenzo's
friends, and, sending the messenger on ahead,
they cautiously followed, and in a few hours
had hidden themselves among the acacia and
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divi-divi bushes along the road to the Mui-
chagua village. There they waited.
Ramon was quietly enjoying himself when
the messenger appeared. With true Indian in-
difference, much resembling that of the North
American Indians, they looked at each other,
and then went on with their own affairs. But
in a few minutes Ramon got up and announced
his departure, returning thanks for the hospi-
tality he had received, and without more words
walked rapidly away. The slave saw him go.
and was alarmed, yet he was partially of good
blood, and after considering a moment deter-
mined to make a bold strike for rank in his
village ; and, having finished his errand, started
immediately to follow Ramon, but his adversary
had disappeared. The slave looked cautiously
about him while following on down the trail,
and after a time came in sight of the acacia
bushes where his masters were hidden. Then
over toward the south country he saw three
crouching forms following after him. He knew
it was the enemy, and his first thought was one
of exultation at the opportunity of distinction ;
he would fight them all; but if he had been
endowed with the courage for such a conflict
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he would long ago have won a place as the equal
of those he served. For a time he stood his
ground, but as the crouching forms drew nearer,
he began to think that three to one was a too
dangerous combat, so the next instant he took
to his heels, and fled down the trail, his enemies
following him, with Ramon in the lead.
On they came directly into the trap. The
messenger ran past his friends without even
knowing of their presence; then came his pur-
suers, and instantly a flight of poisoned arrows
from among the acacia bushes came singing
among them. There was no time to escape.
Three arrows struck Ramon, and he fell for-
ward on his face, tried to rise, but sank down
again on his side, writhing in the agony of a
poisoned death. One of the men was slightly
wounded, and his end would be the more terri-
ble. The other escaped, and with his wounded
companion hurried toward their village.
Then Lorenzo and his friends, seeing whom
they had killed, gathered around the prostrate
form of their enemy with cruel shouts of delight,
and gave no heed to the retreating foe. Ramon
knew that his end had come, and he closed his
lips and made no plea for mercy, for it is not
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known among the Goajira Indians. All his
frame trembled with the agony of the poison.
He was going fast, and as he died Lorenzo set
one foot in his face and derided his sufferings.
Then in a little while it was all over, and Lo-
renzo's party started in haste for their own
country.
Meanwhile the Uriana men who had escaped
spread the news of the death of Ramon, and his
people, wild with passion, started at once in
quest of vengeance. Lorenzo expected this, and
hurried on toward his own country, but when
they had nearly reached the barren hills that
marked the beginning of their lands they heard
a company of horsemen following rapidly after
them, and at least thirty mounted men, armed
with poisoned arrows, were on their track.
Lorenzo saw that there must be a fight, and
made every effort to gain the first hills of his
own country before it should begin, and in this
he was successful. After passing over the first
ridge he called a halt. Behind him he could
see his pursuers, and must lay his plans quickly.
He ordered two of the men to go over to the
next ridge about three hundred yards distant,
stop when half-way up, and wait till their ene-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
mies came over the first hill, and as they came
in sight, to begin struggling on as if completely
exhausted. Then he hid the other Indians on
each side of the road and waited. Presently
thirty or more horsemen came over the crest of
the first hill, and hesitated, as if doubtful about
entering their enemies' country, even though
they were mounted; but seeing the two appar-
ently exhausted fugitives, they set up a cry
of " Blood for blood," and started after them,
sending a shower of poisoned arrows as they
went. The two men gained the top of the hill,
and, lying down to protect themselves, began
to drop poisoned arrows among their enemies.
This was not expected, and threw the pursuers
into some confusion ; and immediately from all
around came poisoned arrows that fell with
deadly effect. They were caught in a trap, and
had no means of knowing with how many they
must contend; but their thirst for blood was
such that they crowded on, and killed the two
Indians ahead of them; then, with many of
their party wounded and dying, they turned
along the crest of the hill, taking a little used
trail for their own country. Lorenzo was not
strong enough to continue the fight, so contented
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
himself with such trophies as he could collect ;
these consisted of three strings of beads, each
with a bullet-shaped tuma taken from as many
dead enemies, and with the three taken from
the body of Ramon made six most precious
trophies. Lorenzo's people prized a different
shaped tuma more highly, but these they had
taken were the kind most valued by their ene-
mies, and were considered trophies worthy of
any fight.
Taking up their dead, they went directly to
their own village, where the sight of the trophies
and the bodies of the dead so inflamed the feel-
ings of their kinsmen that even Lorenzo, the
Chief, was ready for a direct attack on the vil-
lage of their enemies, who now were most prob-
ably all in confusion. The plans were quickly
made, and late that afternoon some forty men,
naked except for a narrow belt and breech-cloth,
well mounted, and armed with bows and poi-
soned arrows, were on the road seeking blood ;
and toward sunset three parties, into which the
company had been divided, began to close in
on their enemy's village. Little Ramon, son
of the Chief who had been killed, was out with
his mother among some cactus plants beyond
320
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the village, to wrap his father's body in hides,
where it would remain for a year or more, till
the flesh had rotted away, after which the bones
would be gathered up, washed, and placed in a
clay jar, to be set aside with others of the fam-
ily in some secret place. They had not suc-
ceeded very well, and were planning how to
make the bundle more secure, when little Ramon
saw their enemies while they were yet some dis-
tance away. Quick as thought, he hid his
mother in a dry gully, and then ran to give the
alarm. A shower of arrows was sent after him,
but he was too far away, and he ran on, reach-
ing the village some distance ahead of the enemy,
and gave the alarm; but so many of the men
were dying from poisoned wOunds that there
seemed little hope for successful defence. The
women and children ran screaming to the thick-
ets, only to be cut down as their enemies closed
in on them. None were spared, except the
younger children, who were taken to be brought
up as slaves, and who were made to look on at
the trembling forms of their parents and rela-
tives, writhing on the ground as the poison
burned through their veins in an agony of death.
The invaders were everywhere successful. The
321
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
village made a brave defence, but its people were
outnumbered, and it was not long before all were
killed, but not without inflicting some loss on
their enemies, and a number of the best men
among the invaders lay trembling in the agonies
of the poison.
But little Ramon was not among the killed;
before the fight had begun he had taken his
other mother and stupid brother down a small
gully near the village to the place where he had
hidden his own mother ; after that he would have
hurried back to help in the fight, but his people
held him, saying he was far too young. Then
while the combat was at its highest they all made
their escape out through the gully to the bush
country beyond, and as night came on they fled
away in the darkness. A few days later they
stopped at a remote place near the edge of the
Spanish country, where their murderous enemies
would probably never follow them. Here they
were joined later by two or three men who had
not been at home when the village was raided,
and several women with five or six children who
had escaped by hiding in the gullies. These were
all that were left of a once prosperous Indian
village.
3S2
AND ACROSS PANAMA
The invaders after their victory returned tri-
umphant to their villages beyond the Cabo de
Vela. Here some days were spent in feasting
on the provisions taken from their enemies, and
then word was sent that Lorenzo would go in
three days to take away his wife.
Preparations for this event were actively car-
ried forward, and on the morning of the third
day Lorenzo, dressed in new white robes em-
broidered with red worsted along the edge, with
a fine collection of tuma beads hanging around
his neck, a clean band of plaited straw about
his hair, and a gaudy feather from the tail of a
macaw standing erect on the left side, was ready,
with a party of friends similarly dressed, to go
and claim his wife. He had a number of slaves
with him, and a fine herd of sixty cows which
were to be the price or security for his wife.
This was the highest provision required by their
laws, but she whom he was to take was a person
of quality, as well as an Indian girl of rare
beauty.
The thirty miles between them and the village
of the bride presented but little difficulty; the
Indians were well mounted, while the cattle ac-
customed to running wild are easily kept at
S2S
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
a good pace. The company went slowly at
first among the low hills and barren ridges of
their own country, then more rapidly over the
open plains where their enemies had lived, and
finally came to the divi-divi bushes beyond which
was the village they were seeking. Here they
continued on, but at a slower pace, among the
narrow trails that crossed and recrossed in every
direction. At times they passed isolated ranchos,
whose inmates immediately joined them, till the
little party, now swelled to a goodly company,
arrived at the village, where they were noisily
welcomed. Then the provision and security for
the well-being of his wife was delivered by
Lorenzo, and received and taken note of by
her uncles on her mother's side, who pronounced
it liberal beyond all precedent, and of the finest
young cattle. Then feasting began, while little
parties of men, women, and children from the
surrounding country kept arriving to join in
the celebration, till a large company was gath-
ered together. Then the chief man among the
bride's people, who was also her father, said:
" Lorenzo has provided well for the daughter
of our village. He must not return empty-
handed to his own country; let him choose a
AND ACROSS PANAMA
horse from among the best that we have." At
these words the slaves ran and drove up a herd
of thirty or forty horses, and Lorenzo picked
out one, a well-built, steel gray animal that
promised to do him good service. Then the
chief said : " And the friends of Lorenzo, he
will remember us better when he rides to battle
if our horses carry his friends. Let him choose
a horse for each of them." Then the eight
or ten men who had accompanied him began
to select from among the horses. It was a very
businesslike transaction, but after active inves-
tigation under Lorenzo's direction it was com-
pleted to their mutual satisfaction, and feast-
ing went on again. There was roast meat, curd
cheese, parched corn, pearl oysters, fish, roasted
meat, and a small allowance of tobacco and rum
for each important man in the party ; but only a
small quantity, because these things were diffi-
cult to obtain. Then more presents were given
to the bridegroom, and feasting was continued
till everything was eaten that had been pro-
vided for them, and when it was evident that
no more presents were to be had, the visitors
gathered their things together, took leave of
their allies, and marched oflP, the slaves driving
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the new horses and carrying the presents. Lo-
renzo rode by his new wife, admiring her beauty,
but also taking special note of five large tumas
that she was wearing. It was well along in
the evening when they arrived at their village,
and as every one was tired all were soon asleep.
The next morning lazy Indians could be seen
idling about the place, the women doing a little
work, or picking lice out of each other's hair,
the slaves tending the cattle, while most of the
men were curled up in their little hammocks
asleep, like animals. To all appearance they
were a lazy, dirty, stupid lot of people, too
indolent to ever think of rousing themselves
or to do harm to anybody. This same morn-
ing, away off near the base of the Black Andes,
the remnant of their enemies were gathered to-
gether looking to little Ramon as their coming
Chief. It was a hard struggle for existence,
but they did get along. They were out of the
track of Indian parties, and near enough to the
Spanish country to enable them to seek protec-
tion if they were discovered ; but of this there
was little danger, because their enemies be-
longed to the seacoast far away.
While I was examining the coal-mines of
326
AND ACROSS PANAMA
which I spoke at the beginning of this chap-
ter, my guide said, " There is a party of fugi-
tive Goajira Indians hving a little beyond here.
Perhaps you would like to visit them."
I replied at once that I would, and asked how
it was that they were fugitives.
" There was a big fight over toward the
cape," he said, " and these people are all who
escaped out of the party that got the worst
of it. They are a bad lot, those Goajiras, and
it's a pity that they don't keep on fighting till
the whole of them are killed off."
We soon arrived at the Indian village, which
consisted of three little, rectangular, thatched
huts, made by driving posts in the ground.
Our appearance caused some excitement at first,
and one of the two men belonging there caught
up a bow and bunch of poisoned arrows, but
seeing that we came as friends the arms were
laid aside, and we were made welcome.
Evidently they were poor Indians, and not
very interesting; but there was a fine-looking
elderly woman and a very pretty young girl.
Presentl}^, an almost naked boy of some four-
teen years came walking gravely into the vil-
lage. He carried a bow and arrows and a bunch
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
of game that he had killed. He came at once
to welcome us, handed the game to the elderly
woman, went and put on a well-worn robe, and
then coming to us again, stood gravely, but said
nothing. He wore his robe with so much un-
assumed, quiet dignity, and was such a splendid
boy, with muscles appearing as strong as steel
wires, that I was interested in him immediately.
Then he asked me what I had come to do.
I told him of the specimens I wanted, and
his face lit up with boyish delight, and all his
dignity was forgotten, as he eagerly proposed
to accompany me, and show where I could find
all sorts of interesting things.
His robe was quickly changed for belt and
breech-cloth, and as he gathered up his bow
and arrows, I asked why he did not take some
of the long ones with slender black tips.
" Those are poisoned arrows," he said, and
brought one to show me. I put out my hand
to take it, but he drew back, saying, " It is
best not even to touch it; the white strangers
have thin skins, and the poison is strong."
Then as we went away toward the river, I
asked him why he wanted so many poisoned
arrows. " We have enemies," he said, " and
328
AND ACROSS PANAMA
the time may come when we can gather some
men together and use them. I want many, but
they are hard to make, and it is slow work."
Then he told me how he had to search till he
caught three of the most poisonous snakes; a
rattlesnake, a coral-snake, and a golden mouth,
a kind of moccasin; these were all shut in a
clay jar till they bit each other to death. Then
the cover was luted on with clay, and the jar
was buried for fifteen days, and when the snakes
became a putrid mass, with which the deadly
poison from their fangs was mingled and fer-
mented, the arrow-tips of bane or hard wood
were dipped in it, and allowed to dry, and then
redipped till they became coated with a poison
so virulent that the least scratch would cause the
most violent death. On the way out the boy,
Ramon, stopped to show me a jar of the poison
that he had under preparation. Then I asked
him about the enemies he was so anxious to kill,
and he told me the story that I have written,
and as we walked along he showed me so much
about the country that was interesting, and
found so many specimens that I wanted, that I
said, " Ramon, I wish I had a boy like you to
work for me."
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
" Do you ? " he answered, all eagerness.
" Would you buy me, and teach me how to
use a rifle against my enemies, and be wise like
a white man ? "
I explained that I could not buy him, but he
still pressed the matter, saying, " I would not
cost much, just enough for my mother to have
till I came back all grown up. My brother
and the working men could take care of them-
selves."
He would certainly have been a valuable ac-
quisition, but it was quite impossible for me
to buy him and become responsible for bring-
ing him up; and he seemed so much disap-
pointed that I told him to come and see me some
day at Rio Hacha, where I expected to remain
several weeks.
When we went away the Indians made us a
present of vegetables and game, and the next
day I sent them a handful of nails, a package
of sugar, and a ball of twine. I heard after-
ward that they were embarrassed by my liberal-
About two weeks later I was sitting in my
house at Rio Hacha late one night writing.
My pistol was at my side, and the negro boy
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
who attended my rooms had gone to sleep and
was snoring vigorously. The little city was
all silence except for low waves washing up
along the beach, and I thought how lonely it
was as I looked out at the dim moonlight re-
flected on the white sand; when suddenly the
slender form of Ramon, the Indian boy, ap-
peared at my window, scarcely disturbing the
silence; then, with a gesture that bade me keep
quiet, he came softly in and closed the door
behind him. " I had to come at night," he said.
" Some of our enemies from beyond the cape are
in the city, and they would kill me if they
could."
He had travelled forty or fifty miles on foot
to see me. What a boy! I put him in my
hammock, and went softly to get him something
to eat, taking care not to disturb my negro
servant, because it seemed best that none should
know of my Indian visitor. He ate all that I
had in the house, which would have been too
much for an ordinary person; but a healthy,
growing Indian has a capacity unlimited. Then
he talked again of my buying him, earnestly
entreating; but I could not do it, and told him
how it was my business to go about among
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
distant countries, and he saw that it could
not be.
Then he whispered, " There are men from
beyond the cape in the city. I know where they
sleep; we could kill them all." But I could
not help him in this, either, and explained that
the white men had different laws, and advised
him that he was too young to even think of
fighting his enemies, that they were too many
for him, and even if he should kill some, the
others would track him down, and that would
be the end of his family. Then he became
silent, and lay back in the hammock, while I
sat beside him. He was near his enemies, but
was too weak to attack them, and as he lay there
his chest heaved, his eyes became more brilliant,
and his lips rigid. He was sorrowing and griev-
ing for his dead, not with weepings and lamen-
tation, but after the manner of his people, with
hate. I could see it burning in his eyes and
throbbing in his temples; and what an all-
consuming hatred it was ! I became alarmed
for the boy, and knowing how the Indians prized
the red stone beads called tumas, I went to my
collection and selected one shaped something
like a conical bullet, with the hole drilled across
SS2
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through the larger end. I gave it to him, and
he was immediately all smiles again, but the
next instant he looked at me with wondering
eyes and said, " Senor, you could buy me with
this. I cannot take a gift so valuable." I put
a string through the bead and hung it about
his neck, telling him to wear it in my remem-
brance. Then he said proudly that no one
should take it from him while he lived, that it
was the shape most prized by his family, and
I would never need to be ashamed of him. The
next moment he said that it was time for him
to start, as he must be well on his road before
his enemies were about.
" But, Ramon," I said, " it is night-time ;
think of the snakes, the jaguars, the panthers,
and other dangerous things." He only laughed
lightly at this, picked up his bow, shoved the
arrows in his belt, and went quietly to the door,
and I watched him steal softly out in the pale
moonlight; but before turning away, he stood
a moment looking back at me, only a half -naked
Indian boy standing alone in the night. Then
he waved his hand and was gone, and I said
to myself as I closed the door, if ever he grows
up his enemies will hear from him. Then I fell
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to thinking of the strange life of the Indians,
and how different their ways are from our ways,
and their thoughts from our thoughts; and
how soon they will all be gone, and how much
of their lore and legends, their customs, and
even their names will be lost, and for ever un-
recorded.
I have a sequel to this story. I never ex-
pected to see Ramon again, but I did see him
some four years later, when I returned to the
country for other investigations. Ramon was a
boy no longer, and the promise for a bright
future had gone from him for ever. He was
weak, he was diseased, a slave among the people
he had hoped to vanquish. He was passing
my door and stopped as if to speak to me, but
a sharp order from his master, and he went de-
jectedly on; and as he went the expression of
a drunkard was all too plain, evidence unmis-
takable in his face and in every movement, and
the tuma he had accepted with such pride, that
I should never be ashamed of him, it was gone;
yet what drunkard has ever been able to main-
tain his honour? Looking after Ramon, deeply
regretful, I kept thinking. Oh, the traders, the
traders, why will they for ever take rum among
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the Indians? And I could not help but think
of a judgment to come, " when earthly things
made even atone together," and to wonder what
penalty those men should pay who for such a
little thing, the profit on the rum that Ramon
would drink, had destroyed a life of so much
promise.
In this story the spelling of the Indian names
is phonetic, adopting the sound so nearly as may
be to the English language. I do not wish to
convey the idea that the different castes among
these Indians fight together and against each
other as clans. The continued strife is between
families and villages, without much regard to
their castes, and among them to-day caste dis-
tinctions are dying out, though formerly they
were strong.
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
CHAPTER XXVIII.
ACROSS. COUNTRY TO BOGOTA
I DID not remain long in Rio Hacha, but
went again to the coal-mines, intending to go
across the country after I had finished my ex-
aminations, and travel as far as Bogota.
Where the coal-mines are located is a great
valley between the Painted Andes and the Sierra
Nevada de Santa Marta Mountains. The val-
ley was intensely hot, low lying, and, at many
places, stony and arid. At such points cactus
plants grow to unusual size, and in such great
abundance that they form a forest crowded so
close together at some places that one seems shut
in from all the world. Here there is no other
vegetation, and the land is silent, the cactus
plants stand motionless, the heat is intense;
though in some places the growth is so thick,
and the plants so tall, that the sun is shut out,
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and a grateful shade is formed. Riding on
through a forest of these great cactus plants,
following a trail on its winding course through
their crowded growth, the strange forms, the si-
lence, the sharp contrasts of shadows and burn-
ing sunlight, and the cave-like surroundings
where the cactus have grown over thick, give
one an impression as of another world, or as
if, in fancy, one were passing on through an
unknown region of the ocean depths, so strange
and so unreal it all appears.
It was a rough life in the valley, but the
strange surroundings made it attractive, and
here I tarried for some days. After a time I
became interested in a peculiar mountain called
the Cerrajon, an abrupt formation standing in
bold outline directly above the valley.
The majordomo of my peons said it was not a
difficult climb, but if I wished to reach the sum-
mit it would require two days, as we would have
to cross to the other side of the mountains, then
up the main range and along the top of a ridge
till we reached a point from which it was an
easy matter to climb the Cerrajon.
This did not suit me at all. I wanted to
see if there was coal on the steep front of the
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mountain facing the valley, and so informed the
majordomo.
" It is impossible, senor," he said ; " for
birds and wild animals it can be, but it is not a
place for men."
" But I want to go there, and I wish to find
a way, and you must come with me," I said,
angrily.
" I can go, but not to show the way," he said,
adding, with a great show of politeness, " and
if the Senor knows a path up the mountains,
having never seen it, he can go to the top, and
I can follow him."
We started early the next morning, walking
about five miles through the cactus and thorn-
bushes to the foot of the mountain. Here the
real climbing began. We had crossed several
smaller mountains on our way, and were thor-
oughly warmed to our work; yet it was a
rough and tumble all the way to the top. We
could never have reached it but for the bushes
and small trees growing all over the side of the
mountain ; we went up bracing our feet against
these very much as one would climb a ladder.
Sometimes we came to places where even this
was impossible, and the majordomo would say
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with satisfaction that we had reached the Hmit,
but by making our way carefully along the
face of the mountain, I always found a place
where we could go a little higher, and we kept
going up and up till finally we came to a ledge
of rock that appeared unsurmountable ; but we
followed along its base for some distance, and
finally came to a broken place where we had a
rough scramble for a few moments, and then
stood on the very summit.
The majordomo was delighted, and told me
that we were on ground where no man had
ever been, a place the people of the valley had
always considered entirely inaccessible. The
scene before us was most beautiful, appearing
almost as if I could take one step out into space
and go falling to the valley below. Across this
valley I could see all the Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta Mountains, their bold outlines
dark in the lengthening shadows, and their
white peaks glowing with colour under the fierce
light of the tropical sun.
I stood looking for a long while, till, finally,
the majordomo reminded me that it was getting
late, and camp was a long way off.
Going down was a good deal like sliding off
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a barn roof and taking your chances, but after
many scratches and bruises we got down safely,
and then began a hard march to camp, where we
arrived about nine p. m., thoroughly tired out.
A big dinner was waiting, and after eating
all I could, I went to bed; and as I fell asleep
I heard the majordomo giving thrilling accounts
of our adventures climbing up the Cerrajon
Mountain to a point where he and his hearers
agreed no human being had ever been before.
A few days more in the valley, and I started
on a long journey overland en route for the
city of Bogota. I followed the valley westward
to where it opened out into the great basin of
the Magdalena River, passing on my way a
series of cactus plains, mud-holes, acacia thick-
ets, and, at frequent intervals, fertile regions,
marked by the presence of thriving towns.
After travelling for two or three days, we came
in sight of the precipices for which the Painted
Andes are named. The cliffs stand in rugged
outline at the highest portions of the range,
their faces banded by great stratification of
alternate black and white extending horizontally
all along the front of these precipices, a forma-
tion so strange that it was startling, and so
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bold and clearly formed that we could see the
great bands of black and white for many miles
of our journey, looking exactly as if they had
been painted along the upper portions of the
mountains. I was anxious to visit those strange
precipices, but this was impossible, for they
marked the country of the Matolony Indians,
a tribe so murderously disposed that on meet-
ing them one must either kill or be killed; no
one had ever penetrated so far among their
mountains, and guides could not be obtained.
Two days further on, one begins to encounter
the swamps and lagoons of the Magdalena val-
ley. On reaching that country I travelled
mostly by canoe, and found the lagoons inter-
esting, though of a dreary appearance, oppress-
ive, blighting almost to one's spirits. I went
over this country with some care, and examined
many of the streams flowing into the Zapatosa
Lagoon, the largest of all the interior lakes of
Colombia.
There were no particular adventures, and
everything went well with me till one afternoon
when we stopped for the night at a little vil-
lage. There my two guides promptly became
intoxicated, and next morning they were in a
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bad condition to continue the j oumey ; ip fact,
they were very drunk. I was told that, once
in the canoe, they would take me safely enough ;
the only difficulty would be to get them started.
After some effort I succeeded in getting them
in the canoe, though one of the men tumbled
over the side while attempting to take his seat.
We had a long trip before us, and the under-
taking appeared rather dangerous with the two
drunken men in a canoe that would turn over
so easily that a person had to be careful and sit
quietly all the time.
The men did fairly well, though they would
often fall asleep over their work and nearly
upset the canoe, but somehow they would al-
ways catch themselves just in time. We kept
going on and on, now through a narrow channel,
then out into a broad lagoon, or among a clus-
ter of low, unhealthful islands, till finally we
came to the great Zapatosa Lagoon.
The men were tired now, and wanted to stop,
saying that the weather looked threatening, and
that a storm on the open lagoon in so frail a
craft would be certain death.
I thought that my men were more anxious to
stop for the night at a little village we were
34S
AND ACROSS PANAMA
passing than they were afraid of a storm, so
I determined to push on, and presently we came
out on a broad lagoon so large that our eyes
could scarcely see across it, while in the distance
ranges of mountains appeared as floating in
the air above the water.
Over the surface there was silence, and every-
where a sense as of death; the yellow water
was glassy in its repose, the intense, refracted
sunlight adding to the illusion. In the un-
healthful-coloured water were dead trees, groups
of alligators, and here and there companies of
aquatic birds. Along the shores there was deso-
lation, dead trees, and struggling cane-brakes.
My men forgot their laziness; they were work-
ing now with the energy of fear. Swiftly the
light canoe went forward, but there was no
breeze, nothing to relieve the intense heat, —
and such a burning heat; it seemed at times as
though I could scarcely breathe. As we went
on, I could understand the fears that the men
entertained of this treacherous water, and in
fancy I imagined the wild tumult of a sudden
storm sweeping over that desolate lagoon. Suf-
fering intensely from the heat, we pressed on,
and after an hour or two had crossed a sort of
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bay in the lagoon, and then we came in the
gathering darkness to a river, and on its black
waters we were carried away into the night,
till presently we came to a hut, and were soon
asleep.
The smaller lagoons are similar to the Zapa-
tosa Lagoon, and of them there is little to be
said. I continued some days in this region,
making explorations, but without special inci-
dent, and then went on my way, following the
trails to the Magdalena River, and then, tak-
ing a steamer, went up the river again as far
as Honda, and from there I went across the
mountains on foot to Bogota.
On the road across the mountains there were
no exciting incidents, only annoyances ; the
way was tedious, the people inhospitable, the
road-houses unclean, and their charges little
short of robbery.
Bogota is on the eastern side of a great in-
terior savannah, an open grass plain at almost
ten thousand feet elevation above the sea, a
place of enchanting beauty, a broad expanse
of open country surrounded by the bleak sum-
mits of inner ranges of the Andes Mountains.
But the city is a place of vermin and corrupting
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filth; a place where the common incidents of
the streets are not fit to be described; where
beggars, displaying revolting sores and rotting
limbs, swarm about, even thrusting their filthy
bodies where they may touch those who pass
by, while they demand, not solicit, alms; where
ill-mannered, arrogant, overdressed people make
vulgar display of their clothes, as they strut
about and crowd for precedence, making much
of the antiquated custom of demanding a place
next the wall, — a fad which caused continued
misunderstandings, because all claimed the wall,
and it was difficult to pass; for my part, I
walked mostly in the streets, and left the side-
walks to the natives. In Bogota one can see the
sedan-chairs in active use, similar to those which
are read about in historic accounts of periods
some two or three centuries gone past. Here
ladies, to show their piety and religious senti-
ment, go about dressed as penitents in rough
garment and belt of rope; but the dress is
drawn tightly about them, that they may not
touch the swarms of filthy people.
One incident of the streets is ever vividly
before me. I saw a boy, ragged and dirty, his
hands tied firmly behind his back, his head a
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mass of sores, scabs, and filth from the lice of
Bogota, called peojos by the natives. He was
whimpering and crying, screaming at times in
his distress. With his hands tightly bound, his
parents led him about, soliciting alms, their
hard faces showing too clearly that they were
making a medium of the boy's sufferings to
obtain money for themselves. I looked on in
horror for an instant, and then asked some peo-
ple with whom I was talking that they would
excuse me for a moment, in order that I might
give some money, and prescribe an ointment
by which the boy could be cured. They laughed
derisively, saying that I might give the money
and the medicine; the parents would call down
blessings on my head, but they would keep the
money and sell the medicine, — the boy was too
profitable for them to permit a cure. I hesi-
tated: the blessings from such fiends would be
more blighting than the deepest curses from
decent people ; and as I hesitated, the boy gave
a convulsive tug at his bonds, freed one hand,
and immediately clutched at his itching, burn-
ing head, dragging at it with such violence that
a great patch of his scalp was torn off, exposing
the skull. His parents bound his hands again,
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
and with cruel looks of satisfaction led him
on, blood dripping over his face, his cries of
distress and the plaintive whine of his parents,
as they asked pity for their misfortunes and
the necessities of their suffering boy, adding
horrid emphasis to his appearance of misery.
The religiously-gowned ladies drew their gar-
ments close about them, and looked aside that
they might not see; their great houses were
closed tight, and walled about; it was nothing
to them; what did they care? How I longed
for the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Children. But I was a stranger in a city
where I was quite unknown, and found but
scant courtesy in ordinary affairs; what could
I hope to do for a suffering boy, where the
law made no provision, the citizens of the place
gave no heed, and all the streets were filled
with scenes of filth, misery, and degradation.
Naturally I had but little desire to remain
in the city, and finding the country people good-
natured and trustworthy, I made frequent ex-
cursions among the surrounding mountains, and
out on the beautiful plains of the savannah.
One morning I climbed the highest peak back
of the city, and then made my way to still higher
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elevations some distance further on, and there
I ascended a peak which just penetrated the
frost line, and found ice collected on its sum-
mit. Here was absolute solitude. For miles,
north and south, were successions of elevations
and ridges forming the interior ranges of the
Andes Mountains. There were patches of red
earth exposed on eroded surfaces, outcroppings
of disintegrating rock, in colour a dull yellow,
blending with the cold grays, dull browns, and
doubtful green of the stunted vegetation; a
great expanse of country, alone and desolate.
The shadows of drifting clouds were in the air,
a dusty haze hung over the distant ranges, and
the sunlight seemed feeble, not strong to cheer.
Damp cold was all over the mountains, a place
of broodings and melancholy thoughts, of lone-
liness and chill; but on the protected places
below the rocks there were flowers, soft, delicate
blossoms, profusely blooming, little gather-
ings of joyousness and beauty, surrounded by
the solemn expanse and desolate impressive
silence of the unpeopled interior mountains of
Colombia.
I remained a long time on this mountain peak,
and then noticing a collection of huts on a
AND ACROSS PANAMA
table-land not far below it, I went down to tbem,
asking permission to remain for the night; a
request the humble proprietors readily granted,
though they were distressed as to how they
might entertain me, for with them bread and
meat were rare luxuries; but on finding that
I knew how to eat roots, as they expressed it,
we were soon quite at ease. For supper there
were yams, potatoes, carrots, and onions; that
was all, but it was enough; and that night,
with my cloak wrapped tightly about me, I slept
under an open thatched shed in front of their
huts, the damp cold of the night blowing in
my face, and the silence of the mountains envel-
oping all about me.
Next morning I went on again, after liberally
paying my friends for their attentions, for they
were too poor, I knew, to extend hospitality
unrewarded. To the southeast of the table-land
there was a range of mountains, some distance
away, but I crossed over to them, and, climbing
up over the summits, came to the divide, where
the streams turn east; and a little further on
there opened before me a view of all the plains
and lowlands of the headwaters of the Oronoco,
spreading out in the distance even to the far-
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thest horizon. Here I rested for a time, and
then turned again toward Bogota, not crossing
the mountains, but following the trail across
the table-land, which led to the city by easier
gradients.
Shortly after this incident, I left Bogota,
making a second journey on foot across the
mountains to the Magdalena River, a difficult
undertaking, but richly repaid in specimens of
interest and valuable information; for I was
investigating the probable cost of railway con-
struction. I was not sorry, however, when I
was once more on board a steamer on my way
down the river, en route for other places.
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CHAPTER XXIX.
THROUGH THE WEST INDIES
Arriving at Barranquilla, I took a steamer
for the island of Cura9ao, and from that time
to the end of my journeys in the Caribbean re-
gions there were no exciting adventures. I
found at the Dutch West Indies a thrifty, hard-
working people, a clean, well-ordered city
(Williamstadt), and charming but unpreten-
tious little villages. I found a place of cleanli-
ness, security, and order, where the trade-winds
sweep continuously over rugged cliffs, saturat-
ing all the air with the salt and moisture of the
blue sea, for deep water lies close against the
islands ; a place in which to rest, recuperate,
and watch the waves beating against the shore.
I left the island with regrets, and went along
the coast of Venezuela, stopping at different
ports, but not remaining to make examinations,
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for in Venezuela security is not sufficient even
in times of peace. The lands are rich, and the
resources abundant, but the system of admin-
istrations permits too many unjust, even ruin-
ous exactions, and the riches of Venezuela had
best remain where they are, and Americans had
better not seek after them till we have a govern-
ment at Washington that will protect our citi-
zens abroad against the first aggression, rather
than wait till some great act of violence is com-
mitted, and then, when no service can come
of it, make feeble protests. But the Americans
abroad have no opportunity to vote, and what
do the politicians at Washington care about
them.'' Some years ago I met an American
cruiser at a tropical port, and went to the cap-
tain on behalf of some fellow citizens, soliciting
aid in bringing a party of Americans from a
point of great danger during a revolution.
We did not ask for the expenditure of any
money, but wanted an American officer to take
the flag and go with an expedition we were
fitting out to rescue our friends. But no, the
captain's instructions from Washington were to
do nothing: the Americans might be in ever
so great danger, but he was to do nothing;
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
if some of them were killed, he would, of course,
take the matter up. In other words, until they
were killed, it was of no consequence ; only dead
Americans were of importance at Washington;
alive they must take care of themselves. We
brought the Americans out safely, but they lost
a lot of property. A lesson to the Americans
that they had better leave the more exposed
places to be occupied by their European com-
petitors. And for this reason I passed Ven-
ezuela by, though its recources are magnificent.
Americans take great risks in the Spanish
republics; in some the risk is greater than in
others. If only American lives, property, and
interests were vigorously protected in those
treasure-lands to the south of us, it would be
worth $200,000,000 annually in trade to our
country. I have seen all those lands, I know
what I say. But Americans abroad do not
come home to vote; what do the politicians at
Washington care about them.?
From the coast of Venezuela I went to the
island of Trinidad, and there saw the progress
and oppressive taxation common to all British
Crown colonies. The government officials made
good salaries and pensions, — all charged
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against the island's taxes ; the large landowners
had in abundance, but the people were desper-
ately poor. The country is rich and produc-
tive, but there is no special opportunity for
Americans in this, or any other British island.
I have not found any Americans who considered
themselves really welcome as residents among
the people, or who felt that they had received,
or would receive, entire justice in dealing with
colonial officials in tropical British colonies.
So it was in Barbadoes and the smaller islands;
all of them places of the most charming beauty,
desirable for tourists and salesmen, but none
of them favourable places for permanent resi-
dences and investment on the part of Americans.
I found Porto Rico gradually emerging from
its period of depression, a beautiful island rich
in small opportunities, where patient industry
will bring its reward, and fruit-growing seems
particularly attractive.
In Hayti I found a country sinking into
barbarism, a place where a foreigner takes great
risks even when doing nothing. When I stopped
there, a revolution was brewing, and going
about was difficult. Guards were at most of
the cities, and my presence gave them an oppor-
354
AND ACROSS PANAMA
tunity to display their authority, and I was
watched with care and caution. At Port au
Prince I found the guards at one of the gates
sleeping, and I slipped past them out into the
country. There is no fairer land in all the world
than this island of Hayti, and the country sur-
rounding the city of Port au Prince was par-
ticularly interesting. I wandered about alone
for some hours, and late in the afternoon made
my way up one of the hills overlooking the
harbour. Here I found a deserted stone build-
ing, the doors standing open; I thought to
enter, but as a precaution gave a smart knock
on the door with my walking-stick. Instantly,
like a swarm of black ants, a lot of negro sol-
diers came crowding out of the doors; aroused
from sleep, they now stood open-mouthed at the
intrusion. Apparently I was in a scrape, but
I stood my ground, looking at them steadily.
Then I made a motion as if I wished to pass
the fort. This was energetically forbidden, and
I made them think I was disappointed and
angry ; a subterfuge which had the desired
effect, because it gave them an opportunity to
exercise authority and command obedience, their
most dearly cherished ambition, and I was or-
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dered violently to retrace my steps and go down
the mountain. This I did with a show of reluc-
tance, but inwardly glad to get away and to
allow them to shout their orders out after me
till I was out of sight.
From Hayti I went to Jamaica, the best and
most beautiful of all the British colonies in
America. I remained some time on the island,
where I found many courteous people, whom I
remember with the highest regard. This island
has been so ably and so frequently described that
little remains to be said in regard to it. The
lands are fertile, and many of its regions are
of unrivalled beauty; picturesque mountains,
tropical glades, and charming plantations, all
claim the delighted attention of travellers.
The negroes do not have the highest regard for
Americans, but they are entirely peaceable, and
I have frequently wondered that this beautiful
island, where there is every security and unques-
tionable order, should be so much neglected by
Americans, who would there find an ideal place
for a winter home. Perhaps the negroes of
Kingston, the principal city, make a bad im-
pression, and It Is a fact that an ugly hack-
driver Is allowed to block the way of a tourist
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so that, in crossing the street, one must go
around through the mud if he does not wish to
use the hack, or a strong black fellow may fol-
low, impertinently demanding alms, while the
police officers look on complacently; but this
is a very small matter, and, outside the city of
Kingston, Jamaica is most orderly and attract-
ive, the negroes are good-natured and obliging,
the roads perfect all over the island, and the
varied scenes among the mountains and valleys
a perpetual delight.
I have travelled pretty much all over the
island, and am always interested in its people.
I well remember one beautiful Sunday morning
when I was stopping with some young engineers
who were at work on one of Jamaica's famous
roads. We were sitting in front of the house,
when an old Baptist preacher came along. He
was as black as one could imagine, a broad smile
on his face, and a well-worn Bible under his
arm. One of the young men made some joking
remark as he went by. The old man turned
around, all smiles and energy, took off his hat,
and, with a sweeping bow, said, " Darh you are
again, marstar, pokin' fun at me, and I is only
a-dooin' my duty a-humbly ; but de las' day am
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a-comin', de las' day am a-comin', marstar.
But I don't think dat you is a-goin' to a bad
judgment on dat day; by em by, you is again
to be like Saul, an' do great t'ings for de Lord,
marstar," and the old man's voice became pa-
thetic as he added, " because you is able, mars-
tar; it is all for de Lord's good time, all for
de Lord's good time, marstar." The young men
had nothing to say, and the black preacher
went smiling to his congregation, where, in a
tumble-down meeting-house, he was shortly
frightening the wits out of a crowd of astounded
darkies by his mighty eloquence and pictures
of the condemnation that was surely coming
to all of them.
In the interior parts of Jamaica life is rather
rough, but one is never far from a handsome
country-place or a hospitable village. I lived
in the mountains of Trelawney Parish for a
time, occupying a hut of two rooms, where the
wind came sweeping through the gaping cracks,
and when it rained the hut soon became wet
inside; but then it was pleasanter than the
bare ground and open woods. Once a company
of big red ants found these advantages attract-
ive ; at first I did not pay any attention to them ;
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
they just wandered around in an aimless way,
and apparently intended no harm; but they
began to increase, and one damp morning I
found, on opening a travelling-box, an enor-
mous nest of them, hundreds and hundreds, and
they immediately began to contest my rights.
Some of them had big jaws, and could draw
blood freely, inflicting a most painful wound.
I killed them all, and thought I was well rid
of them, but early next morning I found they
had taken possession of my bed, and apparently
objected strongly to my presence. I did not
intrude on them more than necessary, but some-
thing began to stir up my feelings, and I was
out of that bed quicker than I had considered
it possible, and stood shivering in my pajamas,
looking on in despair at those disgusting ants
that were now chasing about over the bedclothes
with open jaws, trying to catch whatever it was
that had broken up their rest. Presently they
went to bed again, and I sat up in the cold,
watching over them and waiting for the sun
to rise. Shortly the slaughter began, and of
course the ants got the worst of it; but that
did not stop them at all, and next night they
gathered again and made directly for my bed.
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I tried to be brave and fight them, but they
were many and I was only one, and so I re-
treated, gave them the bed, and took to my
hammock; but they even followed me there,
and next night I was in doubt whether to give
them the hammock and take to the bed, or give
them the bed and take the hammock. The lat-
ter seemed more prudent, but before turning in
I killed a few, and put the lantern on the floor.
The smell of their dead seemed to enrage them,
and for some reason or other they took the
lantern as their common enemy, and I fell asleep
to the sharp clinking of their jaws against the
tin. This kept them amused, and let me have
some rest, and so we had a fair arrangement
for a time, but I was truly glad when, after
the storm cleared up, the ants went back to
the woods and meadows, leaving me to occupy
my hut in security.
In Jamaica the negroes are unreasonably
superstitious, and have a great fear of charms
and spells, which they firmly believe can be
evoked to do them harm. The following inci-
dent is a good illustration of their fears:
I was near the little town of Christiana, col-
lecting fossils in an open lot where the limestone
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
had been weathered down, leaving the specimens
exposed. I was deeply interested in my work,
and gave little heed to my surroundings. Even-
ing was coming on when I noticed a negro boy
of some fifteen years sitting on the fence, watch-
ing me with wondering eyes and intense inter-
est.
I looked at him and said, " Boy, what for you
look at me so.? " To which he replied, " Suh,
marstar, what for you want dem 'tone t'ings ? "
Knowing their superstition and dread, I re-
plied, " For go kill a man down the mountain."
Then he looked at me with frightened eyes,
saying, " Suh, marstar, for true.f^ " and stared
at me worse than ever; in fact, it seemed as if
he could not move his frightened eyes from me
and from the specimens I was gathering.
Then I said, severely, " Boy, what for you
look at me so; think I like that.? You mad
me for true; pretty quick I kill you, too. You
see dat 'tone t'ing," showing him a specimen
of a fossil shell ; " now you wait, when I find
the mate to that, then I kill you, you'll see."
Then I went on gathering specimens, became
interested, and thought no more of the fright-
ened darky sitting on the fence.
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Evening came over the hills, and in the soft
tropical night that followed quickly after the sun
had set I was walking slowly down to my lodg-
ings in the village; but presently my walk was
disturbed by a black boy tagging after me, now
coming to my side, and then starting back as
if in great fear. This continued for some time,
and I stopped, saying, " Well, my boy, what's
troubling you? " at which he replied, in a voice
of beseeching despair, " Mister, general, colonel,
squire, my lord, marstar, don't ! Oh, don't ! I
know you can do it, but you ain't goin' for to
do it," and the long string of titles was repeated
in most pathetic tones.
"Don't what?" I asked, surprised. "Why,
kill me with dem 'tone t'ings," he .answered,
wildly astonished that I did not remember.
" Well," I answered, " promise me you will
never get drunk, and I will let you off this
time." He promised eagerly, and then ran
away in the gathering darkness.
I wonder if he kept his word and earnest
promise. It would be a good thing if he did,
for drunkenness is one of the evils in Jamaica.
The negroes are very susceptible through
their superstitions, and I am told that one of
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
the best methods of protecting one's garden
from petty thieves is to hang up a black bottle
with a white feather sticking out of it.
At another time I was travelling through a
district known as the Cockpit Country, a pecu-
liar place where there are great masses of lime-
stone rocks eroded into all sorts of shapes and
almost impossible ledges. There is no water
for miles, though there are numerous sink-holes
where the rains have worn out deep round hol-
lows, and the water escapes through the porous
rocks. These hollows give the name to the
district.
After going along the trail for some distance,
my guide told me to walk carefully, because
if one should slip the fall would never end, as
there was a pit just by the trail that had no
bottom.
Of course I insisted on seeing a place so
strange, and on being taken there, started to go
closer to examine it. My guide protested, say-
ing that a wind would surely come and suck me
down. This did not seem probable, but I went
cautiously toward it, while the darky still pro-
tested, standing first on one foot and then on
the other.
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I found a great circular opening in the lime-
stone cliffs, and pushed a stone over the side.
It disappeared in the black depths, and fell
with a hissing sound for some seconds till it
crashed on the bottom; and the rocks trembled
with the shock, while the darky was scared al-
most speechless. But after a time his fears were
overcome, and he eagerly brought stones and big
rocks, urging me to throw them down, saying
that there were bad things in the bottom. There
was a big boulder lying just behind the pit,
and together we pried it over. As it fell, the
rushing sound almost took my breath away, and
the crash which followed shook all the rocks till
I thought they would tumble down around us.
I had quite enough then, and went on looking
for other things; and as I went I heard my
black guide saying to himself, " Well, a nigger
could no more 'a' looked down dat pit without
the wind took him; but de white man, dat dif-
ferent."
This shows the deep respect that the negro
of Jamaica has for the white man, and indicates
how safe one is among them, and an incivility
has been rare. The island possesses every ad-
vantage, beautiful scenery, clear, cool moun-
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
tain air in the uplands, and the hot, dreamy
tropics along the coast; there is the most su-
perb sea-bathing at many places, and all over
the island the driving roads are a delight to
the tourist. There are hot sulphur springs and
other medicinal waters, and the future of this
tropical island, with its security and stable gov-
ernment, is bright indeed, and each year the
winter colony is increasing.
From Jamaica I went to Cuba, a republic in
which we are deeply interested, but unfortu-
nately our interest is treated with distrust. The
Cubans want to be free, as they call it. They
have never known freedom, and cannot but
dread any control on the part of a foreign
government, and so do not realize that free
America would be quite different from tyranni-
cal Spain ; but they have suffered so much from
foreign control that they dread it, and want
to be entirely independent, with their own gov-
ernment; and who can blame them, even if
they are not wise, and reject their great and
probably only opportunity to become a part
of the mightiest republic the world has ever
known.
Cuba has been thoroughly written up, agri-
365
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
cultural resources and mining wealth; and
shrewd natives who trade, not too scrupulously
perhaps, and demanding more than their prod-
ucts are worth, often refuse to sell for fear
that the purchaser might be obtaining an ad-
vantage; or who endeavour to obtain terms by
alleging that offers favourable to themselves
had been made, though at first they had offered
any conditions themselves in order to secure a
prospective customer's interest. An incident
illustrating their methods may be interesting.
While stopping at Havana, I was told that a
Cuban general wished to talk to me in regard
to mines. Certainly I was pleased to see him,
and went to the place appointed for our meet-
ing.
I found a rather untidy, ill-appearing gen-
tleman, who told me that, while wandering about
Cuba with the revolutionary army, he and some
other officers had discovered a number of mines,
all of which they had carefully noted, and now
wished to find a mining expert who would go
with them to see which of the different proper-
ties indicated were valuable, and provide the
small amount required for taking out the title,
for which service they offered a half interest
366
AND ACROSS PANAMA
in their discoveries. This looked like good busi-
ness, and I said I would consider the matter, and
agreed to meet them next day.
My next interview was with the whole com-
bination, people strongly suggestive of brigands,
and I fell to wondering what they might be
after, and now made cautious answers to their
questionings. However, negotiations were con-
tinued, and a paper was prepared for signature ;
then one of the men said, " When will you pay
the hundred dollars? "
" What hundred dollars ? " I asked.
" The money you promised for each mine
we show you."
" Oh ! " I replied, waiting to hear more.
" Certainly," he continued, " we understand
that you agree to pay us one hundred dollars
for our services in showing you each of the
mines." The general added hastily, addressing
the company, " Do not concern yourselves ; we
are dealing with a gentleman," bowing to me,
" who will not contend over a sum so small in
such an important business. The gentleman re-
members what he said."
But the gentleman did not remember, and I
told them plainly that, while I was ready for
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
enterprises, I would have nothing to do with any
business where my associates attempted to make
money out of me rather than out of the business.
Then I left them ; their game was too apparent,
and I had seen enough of it.
This illustrates a condition which one must
expect in many Cuban transactions. They all
endeavour to draw one on to consider a propo-
sition, and then seek to add conditions favour-
able to themselves, after they think one is
sufficiently interested; sometimes even after
verbal agreements had been made; but always
some condition to be added which had not been
spoken of at first.
Then, at exaggerations our Cuban friends
are past masters. I went to examine a chromium
mine in the Santa Clara Hills, which the owner
said was one of the most valuable in Cuba. He
showed me assays of the mineral, and orders for
large shipments from well-known consumers,
and was so sure that abundant ore was in sight
that I agreed to go and look at his property.
After some trouble and expense I reached the
place, a beautiful location among rolling grassy
hills, but all the mine we could find consisted of
a few bits of chromic ore scattered about on the
368
AND ACROSS PANAMA
surface, where there was an extensive serpentine
formation, a possible but not very encouraging
prospect. Yet the owner had described ledges
of pure chromium ore, and splendid facilities
for extraction. He had made contracts for de-
livering to the steamers when he should receive
orders, and he was sending all over Europe and
America soliciting purchasers for cargo lots, and
all because he had found a little float ore on the
surface.
These are illustrations of Cuban business
methods. Opportunities are not lacking in that
beautiful island, but its people are overgreedy,
imaginative in the extreme, so Americans must
be cautious.
I was disappointed in the chromium mines,
but I was delighted with the Santa Clara Hills.
In Havana I had been told to beware of brig-
ands and dangerous men, but I found only a
kindly disposed peasantry such as I have met
at all country places throughout Spanish Amer-
ica.
I travelled over the greater portion of Cuba,
and found a rich, attractive island, the resources
mostly agricultural. The lands are flat for the
greater part. Only in the eastern portions of
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AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
the island are there mountains of any consid-
erable elevation. Much of the island is sur-
rounded by swamps and lagoons, succeeded by
broad, rich plains and then the low hills of
portions of the interior.
When my examination in Cuba had been fin-
ished, I returned to New York, having travelled
over all the regions surrounding the Caribbean
Sea.
370
AND ACROSS PANAMA
CHAPTER XXX.
A FAITHFUL GUIDE
I HAVE alluded several times to a kindly dis-
posed peasantry found all through Spanish
America. Frequently, in and near the cities,
dangerous characters are met; out in the coun-
try, where rum is scarce, especially in the more
elevated regions, sobriety, intelligence, and in-
dustry rule ; and if it were not for the frequent
revolutions, originating in the cities, the Span-
ish Americans of the uplands and the country
places would soon make prosperous regions of
their beautiful republics.
An incident in closing will illustrate their
faithfulness.
For some time I have been directing the devel-
opment of properties belonging to the South
American Land and Exploration Co., Ltd., in
Colombia. I have always thought it best to urge
371
AROUND THE CARIBBEAN
any work that I might have on hand, and have
secured a rather peculiar reputation among my
men, who speak of me as the person who never
rests. A touching incident occurred because of
this urgent haste in my undertakings while I
was away from the property. One of my best
men lay dying. A burning fever was on him,
contracted because of over exposure in one of
the heavy rains of that country. He was delir-
ious, and fancied that I was coming and would
be wanting him to start at once for some expe-
dition. In vain the Priest bending over him
said, " Manuel, you will never go to the woods
with Doctor Nicholas again. Think of other
things now; you are dying."
" No, no," he replied, " get the mules ready,
get the canoe. Doctor Nicholas is coming. We
will be going to-day; he will never wait."
The priest expostulated, gently trying to
draw his attention to the life beyond, but Man-
uel would not hear him, and, rising up suddenly
in his bed, cried, " I told you Doctor Nicholas
was coming ; there he is now." Then my f aith-^
ful guide and companion fell back dead.
Manuel had been a leader among the rough
men of the north coast of Colombia, and the
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AND ACROSS PANAMA
next time I visited DibuUa, a little town near
the company's property, the story was told to
me just as I have written it here, but it was more
impressive. I was surrounded by his sorrowing
friends, sorrowing with them for our loss.
As I write now, I wonder if it has fallen to
the lot of many men to have contended with
difficulties such as I have met, and to have been
served through them all as I have been served.
THE END.
373
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